Rutland75

According to the MB date sheet my CLK 280 2006 has a 722.999 transmission fitted.
What does the .999 indicate and what would be the fluid quantity to refill this transmission?

Rudeney

The last two digits of the transmission indicate its specific model. Different engines and cars models will have slightly different versions of the transmission. All 722.6xx and 722.9xx transmissions use the same 236.14 spec fluid:

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/236.14_en.html

Actually, the later versions of the 722.9xx that are used in engine with the start/stop feature use a different fluid, but that would not apply the the CLK.

Rutland75

Thank you Rodney for your reply, The reason I asked the question and wanted to know how much fluid the .999 transmission holds is because I have had a problem changing the fluid last week.
I jacked up the vehicle and removed the fluid from the transmission and Torque converter the following quantities came out -
3 Litres after sump plug removal.
2 Litres from torque converter.
3 1/2 litres on bottom pan removal.
8 1/2 litres total.
I fitted a new adaptor tube to the pan and it clipped into position positively, I refitted the pan with a new gasket.
I filled the transmission with 9 Litres of (at great expense) genuine MB fluid.
When the transmission came to the correct temperature I removed the filling hose and 2 Litres came out, I replaced the plug.
As I was not happy with there only appearing to be 7 Litres in the transmission, the next morning I repeated the filling sequence, this time I added 2 more Litres before starting the engine.
When the transmission came to the correct temperature this time 1 1/2 Litres were expelled.
I road tested the car and everything functions correctly, after the road test the pan temperature was not exceptionally hot.
I have read on the forums that 9 Litres is the norm, has anyone else reported this problem?

Yidney

How were you measuring the temperature?

Rudeney

Do you have the revise pan with the sloped rear end?

http://benzbits.com/722_9/RedesignedPan.pdf

I know it's in German - the older pan is first, the newer afterward.

If you have the newer pan, then you check the level at 113F. You can use an IR thermometer pointed at the pan. Make sure it has a clear path and the line of sight does not pass close to the exhaust pipes. I think the prescribed level has about +/- half a quart of tolerance. Also, I find is very difficult to maintain 113F for checking the level. It's hard to get it to there and stay - it wants to quickly rise.

Rutland75

Yes, I have the revised pan.
I am using an IR thermometer purchased specifically for this operation.
When using this IR thermometer the pan does not register a uniform temperature over the bottom surface, some areas are above the required temp: and some below, I tried to take the average.

Rudeney

When I checked mine with an IR thermometer, it varied only by 1 degree F as I scanned across it the pan surface, and was thus within 1 degree of what SDS gave me. I did notice that if I shout "through" the hot air surrounding the exhaust pipes, I would get a much higher reading.

Rutland75

I would appear to have two options -
1 - Operate the car with the amount of fluid that I have already in.
2 - Add 2 Litres of fluid (with engine running), remove filler tube and quickly screw in the sump plug ( with as little fluid loss as possible ), not very scientific nor as MB intended but is it a better option than # one.
Or would you have a better/another suggestion? I am preparing the car for an extended trip into Europe, I do not want any problems.

Rudeney

If you are comfortable that you got within 1-2 degrees of the right temperature and within 1/2 a quart of fluid, I'd leave it as is.

Rutland75

Hello Rodney,
According to my calculations I only have 7 Litres in the system, which I do not think is sufficient.
Please be aware that I did the job twice with the same results.
As a matter of interest would any alert be triggered in the electronics if low oil was detected?

Rudeney

No, no alerts - at least nothing displayed on the MFD. Low fluid can cause slipping when gears are changed, and possible even limp mode, so you'd probably know if it were too low.

Definitely do not go by "what came out vs. what goes in" to set the level. It needs to be set based on the overflow tube flow rate at the prescribed temperature. One thing that you stated concerns me:

At full operating temp, it should have been at least 180F. If not, then I suspect your thermometer may be the problem.

Rutland75

To clarify what I said about the pan not being very hot after the test drive, I did not use the IR Thermometer I just felt it with my hand, I should/could have done it with the IR thermometer, will do it after the next run.
If I jack up the vehicle and level it, I then remove the sump plug, drain the fluid this will leave me (using my original calculation of 2 litres in the torque converter and 3 1/2 litres in the bottom pan) 5 1/2 litres still in the transmission, I then add 3 litres this would bring me back to my original starting point, I understand that the total should be 9 litres, surely this would be better than operating with just 7 litres in the transmission.
I look forward to receiving you comments.

Rudeney

I you believe the transmission is under-filled, why drain it at all? Honestly, my opinion is that you should set the based on the proper temperature (113F) and flow rate and don't worry about what came out. The only thing I would do is make sure that you are getting a proper temperature reading. Test your IR thermometer on the engine block. Full operating temperature is 90C (about 195F) and checking the block right at the top radiator hose should give you that. If it's not close (+/- 5F) then I'd suspect your thermometer. Another option would be to use a "manual" thermometer in the stream of fluid dripping from the drain plug.