New Supercharged CLK55
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: 40*-55'-44" N / 73*-24'-07" W
'98 C43/55 AMG Speedybenz Susp. & MBenzNL On Board -- '88 560SL -- '09 JCW MINI -- '97 Jeep TJ Sport
BTW, any ever evaluate if Whipple could work as a DYI kit?
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/...sp?ProdID=1162
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/....asp?PageID=79
They make mention of things such as 'No “ancient” rising rate fuel pressure regulator' as they apparently have an ECU controlling the boost pressure regulator and performing other functions like even fuel injection.
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/...sp?ProdID=1162
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/....asp?PageID=79
They make mention of things such as 'No “ancient” rising rate fuel pressure regulator' as they apparently have an ECU controlling the boost pressure regulator and performing other functions like even fuel injection.
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
bumping the year old thread!
gregc- are you still running the xxx xxx 982 pump? i have one of those as well as a stock pump.
I am trying to decide if i want to run the stock pump or that pump AND an aeromotive 11109
OR if i just want to run an aeromotive 11106
lastly, what is this information about the stock hps fmu not working properly? causing a stutter?
thanks
-drew
gregc- are you still running the xxx xxx 982 pump? i have one of those as well as a stock pump.
I am trying to decide if i want to run the stock pump or that pump AND an aeromotive 11109
OR if i just want to run an aeromotive 11106
lastly, what is this information about the stock hps fmu not working properly? causing a stutter?
thanks
-drew
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2003
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CLK 55
Fuel
I would try to run just one pump. Get a bigger, higher flow unit and let it do its job. On my CLK55 I have plenty of room for the bigger pump size.
The FMU is at the back with the HPS setup on CLKs. It takes a long time for the boost air to get the FMU working. That is an issue.
Shutter sounds like a bypass door not closing as fast as it should. A vacume leak in many cases.
The FMU is at the back with the HPS setup on CLKs. It takes a long time for the boost air to get the FMU working. That is an issue.
Shutter sounds like a bypass door not closing as fast as it should. A vacume leak in many cases.
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
without fmu how are you attacking the over 5.0 volts maf issue (how are you directing it to add more fuel once it goes over 5 volts?) boost a pump?
are you running the ftc1-24 at this point? is that your only tuning software?
are you running the ftc1-24 at this point? is that your only tuning software?
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From: Portsmouth, NH
none
I would try to run just one pump. Get a bigger, higher flow unit and let it do its job. On my CLK55 I have plenty of room for the bigger pump size.
The FMU is at the back with the HPS setup on CLKs. It takes a long time for the boost air to get the FMU working. That is an issue.
Shutter sounds like a bypass door not closing as fast as it should. A vacume leak in many cases.
The FMU is at the back with the HPS setup on CLKs. It takes a long time for the boost air to get the FMU working. That is an issue.
Shutter sounds like a bypass door not closing as fast as it should. A vacume leak in many cases.
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
nitrogenbalance- yeah, it's VERY odd that our fmu is installed in the rear (coming from my ford background), and it can't be ideal.
it sounds like gregc ditched the rear fmu for somethign else- can't wait to hear what?
it sounds like gregc ditched the rear fmu for somethign else- can't wait to hear what?
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
not fully- but yes, the splitsecond psc1-003 or ftc1-24 will provide some
If all you want is the a/f side of things i'll sell you my psc1-003 with the directions you need etc. for $120 shipped.
we're all kind of waiting to see how much tuning is needed (in op's experience) to run some extra power. psc1-003 should be all you need for <6 psi or so
If all you want is the a/f side of things i'll sell you my psc1-003 with the directions you need etc. for $120 shipped.
we're all kind of waiting to see how much tuning is needed (in op's experience) to run some extra power. psc1-003 should be all you need for <6 psi or so
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From: KCMO, but Houston is my home.
01 CLK 430
not fully- but yes, the splitsecond psc1-003 or ftc1-24 will provide some
If all you want is the a/f side of things i'll sell you my psc1-003 with the directions you need etc. for $120 shipped.
we're all kind of waiting to see how much tuning is needed (in op's experience) to run some extra power. psc1-003 should be all you need for <6 psi or so
If all you want is the a/f side of things i'll sell you my psc1-003 with the directions you need etc. for $120 shipped.
we're all kind of waiting to see how much tuning is needed (in op's experience) to run some extra power. psc1-003 should be all you need for <6 psi or so
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From: KCMO, but Houston is my home.
01 CLK 430
What datalogger are you all running? I was thinking about picking up this one:
http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DT-DashDAQ
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
if you must run a/f
you need to buy a wideband that comes with a sensor etc.
i would highly recommend calibrating it on a dyno so that you know what you are seeing.
i have been doing a lot of research etc., (talking to my business partner with the 1kwhp stang) and i think a bap is very doable/workable as the way to increase fuel (in conjunction with fmu or not?- only testing will tell) once you go past the 4.9 volts. I still am really curious as to exactly how the op on this thread tackled that issue- since we know his method works.
also, the 2003+ E55 uses the same maf housing size as our cars... with a different sensor part #. Obviously it doesn't peg it's maf under boost... this means to me that it is calibrated to read "lower" such that the boosted air flow (500 hp worth) still reads under 5 volts. I have such a sensor sitting on the floor of my house right now. This might prove to be a simple solution in conjunction with the maf scaler- which will likely have to be turned up quite a bit.
-drew
you need to buy a wideband that comes with a sensor etc.
i would highly recommend calibrating it on a dyno so that you know what you are seeing.
i have been doing a lot of research etc., (talking to my business partner with the 1kwhp stang) and i think a bap is very doable/workable as the way to increase fuel (in conjunction with fmu or not?- only testing will tell) once you go past the 4.9 volts. I still am really curious as to exactly how the op on this thread tackled that issue- since we know his method works.
also, the 2003+ E55 uses the same maf housing size as our cars... with a different sensor part #. Obviously it doesn't peg it's maf under boost... this means to me that it is calibrated to read "lower" such that the boosted air flow (500 hp worth) still reads under 5 volts. I have such a sensor sitting on the floor of my house right now. This might prove to be a simple solution in conjunction with the maf scaler- which will likely have to be turned up quite a bit.
-drew
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
verdict is still out on which option will be best:
there are two ways to have enough fuel pump output- add input pump, or get large enough pump (i'm going to go with the large pump and sell my other stuff)
so, assuming the pump is capable of the output needed:
next we need a way to tell the pump to pump harder/increase pressure at higher rpms and/or under boost
this can be done with an fmu or with a boost a pump (or with both in conjunction)
I'd rather not just toss my money around until i figure out a working combination. So... gregc or others (anyone who actually isntalled a larger fuel pump, or second inline pump) what "rising rate" worked for you? it sounds like gregc is using a 4:1 fmu and a boost a pump in conjunction...
gregc- i ask you: with a slighly larger pump would that be necessary or would the bap be enough? with only 4 lbs on tap would the bap be all one would need? what about 6-7 psi?
-drew
there are two ways to have enough fuel pump output- add input pump, or get large enough pump (i'm going to go with the large pump and sell my other stuff)
so, assuming the pump is capable of the output needed:
next we need a way to tell the pump to pump harder/increase pressure at higher rpms and/or under boost
this can be done with an fmu or with a boost a pump (or with both in conjunction)
I'd rather not just toss my money around until i figure out a working combination. So... gregc or others (anyone who actually isntalled a larger fuel pump, or second inline pump) what "rising rate" worked for you? it sounds like gregc is using a 4:1 fmu and a boost a pump in conjunction...
gregc- i ask you: with a slighly larger pump would that be necessary or would the bap be enough? with only 4 lbs on tap would the bap be all one would need? what about 6-7 psi?
-drew
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From: Santa Ana, CA
E320CDI, CLK55, and a Smart
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 4
From: Santa Ana, CA
E320CDI, CLK55, and a Smart
Right now I am running a Kenny Bell BAP and BEGI FMU. I also bought a larger fuel pump and bracket, but havent installed it yet.
But before I installed all of that, I was running really lean. As of now though, my AF ratio is good.
But before I installed all of that, I was running really lean. As of now though, my AF ratio is good.
verdict is still out on which option will be best:
there are two ways to have enough fuel pump output- add input pump, or get large enough pump (i'm going to go with the large pump and sell my other stuff)
so, assuming the pump is capable of the output needed:
next we need a way to tell the pump to pump harder/increase pressure at higher rpms and/or under boost
this can be done with an fmu or with a boost a pump (or with both in conjunction)
I'd rather not just toss my money around until i figure out a working combination. So... gregc or others (anyone who actually isntalled a larger fuel pump, or second inline pump) what "rising rate" worked for you? it sounds like gregc is using a 4:1 fmu and a boost a pump in conjunction...
gregc- i ask you: with a slighly larger pump would that be necessary or would the bap be enough? with only 4 lbs on tap would the bap be all one would need? what about 6-7 psi?
-drew
there are two ways to have enough fuel pump output- add input pump, or get large enough pump (i'm going to go with the large pump and sell my other stuff)
so, assuming the pump is capable of the output needed:
next we need a way to tell the pump to pump harder/increase pressure at higher rpms and/or under boost
this can be done with an fmu or with a boost a pump (or with both in conjunction)
I'd rather not just toss my money around until i figure out a working combination. So... gregc or others (anyone who actually isntalled a larger fuel pump, or second inline pump) what "rising rate" worked for you? it sounds like gregc is using a 4:1 fmu and a boost a pump in conjunction...
gregc- i ask you: with a slighly larger pump would that be necessary or would the bap be enough? with only 4 lbs on tap would the bap be all one would need? what about 6-7 psi?
-drew
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
do you know the settings of your begi fmu?
i've never installed one (but am familiar with them via the internetz, heh) how do you go about setting it up AS WELL AS setting up the BAP? ie- wont' adjusting one also effect the other? Where did you start?
i've never installed one (but am familiar with them via the internetz, heh) how do you go about setting it up AS WELL AS setting up the BAP? ie- wont' adjusting one also effect the other? Where did you start?
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
which larger fuel pump did you go with?
i'm pretty much set on that aeromotive 11106 if i go that route (good experiences with their products on other cars etc.)- but curious
i'm pretty much set on that aeromotive 11106 if i go that route (good experiences with their products on other cars etc.)- but curious
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
Instead of the boost a pump option,I did this to my 413whp Eagle talon! With this option you can buy thicker guage wire and do the same thing to your AMG: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-relay.html .The guage wire you use has alot to do with the voltage.Cheaper alternative. You can do both,but I used a cheaper option as far as fuel pump voltage is concerned.My car has used this setup for three yrs and still no problems with my Supra TT fuel pump that I use on my Talon.
You can do both,but I used a cheaper option as far as fuel pump voltage is concerned.My car has used this setup for three yrs and still no problems with my Supra TT fuel pump that I use on my Talon.
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From: Portsmouth, NH
none
I believe the BEGI unit is adjustable, which would mean getting it on the dyno and fine tuning it. The vortech unit I have is fixed at 4:1 from what I gather. You can switch the plates but its a pain and time consuming. I have the upgraded vortech unit which is adjustable externally using set screws. I haven't installed it yet though. No need yet actually....
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From: Santa Ana, CA
E320CDI, CLK55, and a Smart
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
thanks for the pump info- how much power have you run with that one thus far?
so far as begi being adjustable- definitely is. I am just curious how one goes up setting up an adjustable fpr/fmu AND adjustable boost a pump (seems like endless tinkering is possible there) as changing one certainly effects changes made to the other etc. I am also curious if people think you really need both with the proper fuel pump or if just a boost a pump is enough (op seemed to suggest that was the case, but then hasn't posted for a bit)
so far as begi being adjustable- definitely is. I am just curious how one goes up setting up an adjustable fpr/fmu AND adjustable boost a pump (seems like endless tinkering is possible there) as changing one certainly effects changes made to the other etc. I am also curious if people think you really need both with the proper fuel pump or if just a boost a pump is enough (op seemed to suggest that was the case, but then hasn't posted for a bit)
