c55m8o

BTW, any ever evaluate if Whipple could work as a DYI kit?

http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/...sp?ProdID=1162
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/....asp?PageID=79

They make mention of things such as 'No “ancient” rising rate fuel pressure regulator' as they apparently have an ECU controlling the boost pressure regulator and performing other functions like even fuel injection.

silence

bumping the year old thread!

gregc- are you still running the xxx xxx 982 pump? i have one of those as well as a stock pump.

I am trying to decide if i want to run the stock pump or that pump AND an aeromotive 11109

OR if i just want to run an aeromotive 11106



lastly, what is this information about the stock hps fmu not working properly? causing a stutter?

thanks

-drew

gregc

I would try to run just one pump. Get a bigger, higher flow unit and let it do its job. On my CLK55 I have plenty of room for the bigger pump size.

The FMU is at the back with the HPS setup on CLKs. It takes a long time for the boost air to get the FMU working. That is an issue.

Shutter sounds like a bypass door not closing as fast as it should. A vacume leak in many cases.

silence

without fmu how are you attacking the over 5.0 volts maf issue (how are you directing it to add more fuel once it goes over 5 volts?) boost a pump?


are you running the ftc1-24 at this point? is that your only tuning software?

NitrogenBalance

Greg, my dyno guy dose stuff for rousche and other mustang stuff. He is very familiar with my parts, vortech, magnesun, split second, etc...he is not familiar with MB's though. He mentioned that the FMU's are usally installed near the motor in his applications opposed to at the back. I know this has to do with the return line, however, would it be better to keep the vacuum line short, and intall the FMU closer for an immediate response. One would have to deal with the return line though????? any thoughts???

silence

nitrogenbalance- yeah, it's VERY odd that our fmu is installed in the rear (coming from my ford background), and it can't be ideal.

it sounds like gregc ditched the rear fmu for somethign else- can't wait to hear what?

Ghostrider

Can someone, anyone suggest a product to adjust the Air/Fuel Ratio independent of an ECU tune???

silence

not fully- but yes, the splitsecond psc1-003 or ftc1-24 will provide some

If all you want is the a/f side of things i'll sell you my psc1-003 with the directions you need etc. for $120 shipped.

we're all kind of waiting to see how much tuning is needed (in op's experience) to run some extra power. psc1-003 should be all you need for <6 psi or so

Ghostrider

Thank you for the offer! I have a new tune coming, so if that doesn't work I will be in touch.

sick430

hey guys i want to run an a/f meter. do i need the ARM1 from split second or the ARM1-5.0

thanks guys

Ghostrider

I went with the Innovate Motorsports LC-1, I like it!

What datalogger are you all running? I was thinking about picking up this one:


http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DT-DashDAQ

Dan Wang

I'm running my FMU from the back, no issues.

silence

if you must run a/f

you need to buy a wideband that comes with a sensor etc.

i would highly recommend calibrating it on a dyno so that you know what you are seeing.

i have been doing a lot of research etc., (talking to my business partner with the 1kwhp stang) and i think a bap is very doable/workable as the way to increase fuel (in conjunction with fmu or not?- only testing will tell) once you go past the 4.9 volts. I still am really curious as to exactly how the op on this thread tackled that issue- since we know his method works.

also, the 2003+ E55 uses the same maf housing size as our cars... with a different sensor part #. Obviously it doesn't peg it's maf under boost... this means to me that it is calibrated to read "lower" such that the boosted air flow (500 hp worth) still reads under 5 volts. I have such a sensor sitting on the floor of my house right now. This might prove to be a simple solution in conjunction with the maf scaler- which will likely have to be turned up quite a bit.

-drew

sick430

sorry, but what is a MAF scaler?

silence

the splitsecond psc1-003 unit is referred to as a "maf scaler" as it allows you to adjust the voltage output of the maf

silence

verdict is still out on which option will be best:

there are two ways to have enough fuel pump output- add input pump, or get large enough pump (i'm going to go with the large pump and sell my other stuff)

so, assuming the pump is capable of the output needed:

next we need a way to tell the pump to pump harder/increase pressure at higher rpms and/or under boost

this can be done with an fmu or with a boost a pump (or with both in conjunction)

I'd rather not just toss my money around until i figure out a working combination. So... gregc or others (anyone who actually isntalled a larger fuel pump, or second inline pump) what "rising rate" worked for you? it sounds like gregc is using a 4:1 fmu and a boost a pump in conjunction...

gregc- i ask you: with a slighly larger pump would that be necessary or would the bap be enough? with only 4 lbs on tap would the bap be all one would need? what about 6-7 psi?

-drew

Dan Wang

This is exactly what I am using. The voltage should be less than 5.0v. I believe I have mine set to 4.99v.

Dan Wang

Right now I am running a Kenny Bell BAP and BEGI FMU. I also bought a larger fuel pump and bracket, but havent installed it yet.

But before I installed all of that, I was running really lean. As of now though, my AF ratio is good.

silence

do you know the settings of your begi fmu?

i've never installed one (but am familiar with them via the internetz, heh) how do you go about setting it up AS WELL AS setting up the BAP? ie- wont' adjusting one also effect the other? Where did you start?

silence

which larger fuel pump did you go with?

i'm pretty much set on that aeromotive 11106 if i go that route (good experiences with their products on other cars etc.)- but curious

silence

however, then it isn't adjustable and your only relying on fmu for our applications. this is still a good thing to do though.

NitrogenBalance

I believe the BEGI unit is adjustable, which would mean getting it on the dyno and fine tuning it. The vortech unit I have is fixed at 4:1 from what I gather. You can switch the plates but its a pain and time consuming. I have the upgraded vortech unit which is adjustable externally using set screws. I haven't installed it yet though. No need yet actually....

Dan Wang

Nitro is correct. The BEGI unit is adjustable. You can also use the super fmu made by Vortech. My was tuned in on the dyno.

Dan Wang

0 580 254 044

Bosch Rating: 200 LPH at 72.5 PSI and 13.5 V

silence

thanks for the pump info- how much power have you run with that one thus far?

so far as begi being adjustable- definitely is. I am just curious how one goes up setting up an adjustable fpr/fmu AND adjustable boost a pump (seems like endless tinkering is possible there) as changing one certainly effects changes made to the other etc. I am also curious if people think you really need both with the proper fuel pump or if just a boost a pump is enough (op seemed to suggest that was the case, but then hasn't posted for a bit)