Has anybody ever seen a 55 motor go south after only 33K miles. Yes, I have the Kleemann supercharger. Kleemann is saying that I drove the car too hard with bad gas and a bad MAF all at the same time. BULL****!!!!! I do not drive this car any harded then my Supra Twin Turbo and thats just a ricer! Not a hand built, over engineered, German Autobahn cruiser???? Please tell me I am not the only person with a blown 55 that has gone BOOM!

 

I did NOT wanna read that! Can I get my click back? Man that sucks!

 

Sorry to hear about your car dude but a Supra is not a ricer ! The Supra is just as nicely engineered as your MB.

If you were driving with a bad MAF at full throttle ,yes I can understand you damaging the motor with the kleeman Charger. The motor is not invincible. Bad MAF= bad A/F ratio and when under boost that spells disaster on any motor even with 10 miles.

 

Actually I think the Supra is a better car. I have friends with 800+ HP from thier stock bottom ends.

As far as the MAF going bad, maybe. Why only cylinder #6? Why not all of them, or more then 1? I think it was just a bad ring, and it just let go. I do not think my MAF was bad, time will tell.

 

Keep trying to get more power out of it and see how long yours hold together. My car has never been to the track, and I have only raced 2-3 cars on the street! Bulletproof motors my a**! Anything can happen to any motor on any given day. Just keep praying your not next!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Wow CJ that just sucks. Good luck man!

on

 

Supra is deff not better IMO I Have both. You know MB does have a recall going on were you loosing oil not on your drive way but when you checked it? I know some of the 113 engines had this just food for thought/?

 

Since it didn't ingest anything, it sounds like your #6 overheated/got cooked. On disassembly, look at that one piston very carefully. The first thing I'd do is pull all the injectors, number them, and have them flowed. If the #6 was clogged/bad, that cylinder went lean. If all the injector flow within spec, check the wiring. Look at the oil jets. If the one under the #6 was bad/clogged, the slug itself overheated. Check the wrist pint on the #6. I have no idea how you're going to do it with a car that doen't run, but check the timing on the #6. It's CDs with coils, if the #6 is defective, it could have pinged itself to death.

When was the last time the A/F ratios were checked "throughout the rev range"? Not by the supercharger installer/seller, but by someone else? Some cars go lean in certain segments of the rev range. In that case, #6 let loose, but all eight were seeing excess heat.


I'll tell you what I learned a long time ago when I used to build engines:

Do not rebuild the engine, or even take another long block, and set it in that car until you are 100% sure you know what cooked the engine. The only thing worse than killing one engine, is killing two.

Please post the cause of the problem when you find out what it was.

 

Wow that sux, I know how you feel. My brand new CLk tuned out to a lemon after 3000..........Did that kleeman supercharger void you warranty ???

The supra twin tubro is dope !! i hardly ever see those anymore.....good luck bro. SCOOP A 63 KID !!!!

 

How long have you had the Kleemann on? Are you the original owner? Any previous problems?

 

I would say this is jumping the gun on blaming anything or anyone. We still don't know what is wrong and what caused it, which what one needs to properly assign "BLAME"!
Refer the the original thread https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg-clk63-amg-w208-w209/185007-cylinder-6-misfire-need-ideas.html

 

Damn, sorry to hear that!

Hope everything works out for you. I'm not used to reading any blown motor threads on this board...

 

When I modified the boost in My 1991 Talon from 6 psi to 18, the air fuel ratio were not enough normally to feed the car enough fuel to keep from melting down the engine. This was not evident in the 1/4 mile at the track. It was however on high speed freeway runs over several minute durations.

Critical engine tempature is a key piece of information to know. I was shocked when I installed a Exhaust Temperature Gauge (EGT) in the downpipe of the exhaust system at how fast the car could hit temperatures that were close to melting critical engine parts. I would never had known. The solution, let of the gas as needed to lower temperatures and also install an Apexi Air Fuel (AF) computer and force more gas into the car at higher RPMs (you can program the fuel ratio every 500 rmps). Thus, in wide open throttle (WOT) the car can receive more fuel so that it doesn’t lean out causing a melt down. Remember, fuel can be used to cool the engine as well as make it go faster.

That being said, I feel for you as I also burned out the engine. Forced induction is a tricky beast to control on a car not designed originally that way. If you haven't already, I would invest in larger injectors, a larger fuel pump, the Apexi A/F computer to control both and a good EGT and boost gauge. Good luck.

Allan

 

You're the first person I've heard of blowing their motor with the Kleemann supercharger. If your MAF was bad, wouldn't you feel hesitation before all this happened? Good luck getting it fixed. I'm not gonna let this stop me from tracking my car. Thats one of the reasons I bought it. Keep us posted on the cause!

And I agree about the Supra. One of the best engines ever built 2JZ-GTE. But I'll take my CLK55 over a supra any day (Supra's are expected to be fast, not the benz; plus its alot more comfortable and not a Toyota ). That doesnt mean I wouldnt own both

 

I have not seen him blame anything... just disappointed.

 

In this thread CJ claimed the engine went "boom". That isn't what has happened, it runs rough due to low compression and has set fault codes which caused the cel to iluminate. I fail to see the catastrophic engine failure part yet. I envision rods hanging out of a block, a broken crank, piston crown damage or at least head gasket failure to say it went boom.

This is what he claimed in the other thread I had linked back to where people were advising him on addressing the problem. This is replacing parts that were thought to be the cause, or BLAMING those parts and then finding out they really don't seem to be at fault. Maybe I'm reading it wrong.

He wouldn't have sent ecu back to Kleemann if there wasn't some thought of it being to blame. Should have checked the basics first, but even I'm guilty of not checking first because I don't see much mechanical trouble out of these engines when they are cared for. An abused or modified engine however, I would check the basics first.

Here he claims the "ring are gone". I replied maybe not. Would be very unusual, I'll believe it when I see it.

There should be piston and wall damage or ring land damage evident when scoping the cylinder. I suggested the ring gaps lined up as I have seen this happen.

I'm not trying to spank CJ, just calming him as I know his baby is not right. I don't know who he had talked to at Kleemann, but I would think they could only point out possibilities to the problem, not actually assign blame to one thing or another.
It's not easy trying to point people in the right direction with limited information being supplied. Maybe I'm not as worried about car problems, I expect them as cars are designed and made by men. I just systematically and calmly approach problems and resolve them.
CJ don't feel alone, my beloved modified 500E transmission died 1 1/2 weeks ago, I wasn't happy but I had others cars in the shop I had to fix. I finally fixed the 500E tonight and am happy to have it back up and running. I had to drive the CLK with bad lower control arm bushings (shaking) because I refused to put in the original style bushings. Chappy located me the aftermarket urethane bushings I sought (Thanks Chappy) at the nick of time (I had two sets of original bushings in front of me) and hopefully it'll be back to 100% too.
But we still don't have the answer to what's wrong, could be ring gaps are lined up as I suggested, or somehow the rings are damaged. In these cars usually only lack of oil changes or overheating will hurt the rings. I'll bet on the gaps and would button it up and drive it for several days, clean the plugs and see if it healed itself before tearing it down. My 2 cents again.
Rich

 

I am not trying to blame anyone or anything. Kleemann is the one blaming me for driving TOO HARD. I know that parts fail. My Supra had 3 trannies in it because I had too much power for the automatic to handle. I am just looking for ideas and possible reasons why I have reduced compression in the #6 cylinder. You are right, the engine has not blown up. But its going to have to come out and be torn apart regardless. I have not been able to find much about a 55 motor needing rebuilt at 33K, modified of not. These posts are not about blame. Kleemann has been guessing, as has my mechanic, as to the actual problem. Yes, they threw parts at the car in an attempt to fix it. Money wasted. It is very easy to overlook the obvious when the obvious just doesn't happen. In all the years Kleemann has been doing this they have not seen a 55 motor do this. I plan on talking to my mechanic today and will come up with some plan of attack. I will keep you guys posted as event unfold.

 

Charles I feel for you, i also have had a supra and had low compression in #4(the classic Detonation piston because of heat). If you modify a car past its original HP level you will break parts.

How low was the compression in #6? This would be a great time to maybe add some more security to your engine. You really wont know until its torn apart but I would definately think about better pistons, rods all the way around while your in there.

It all points to these problems: Not enough octane(thus causing to much heat), Not enough fuel. If the ringland is cracked then you bet it detonated. Thats what is sounds like to me.

MarcusF advice is right on also.

 

Wait, what octane fuel were you running? Why would Kleemann say you were using bad gas?

 

I just read your other thread. Sounds like i was dead on. Compression on #6 at 80-90= Ringland cracked.

 

So any update?

 

Have it taken apart and extrude honed! Man, what a difference it made on my talon.

Anyway...

Sounds like your engine is not a total loss, look at your cup as half full.
Besides.....what happened for you to notice your engine problem? Using oil? Losing coolant? Loss of power? Blowing smoke? Engine knocking? I ask, because normally something would have happened and would have given you a clue something was wrong. I was a service advisor/assistant service manager for a Ford, Buick and Mazda dealership years ago and I have seen it all. Head gasket, clogged/faulty fuel injector, crimped fuel rail, are to name a few of lean cylinders causes. Being that the 5.5 uses an multi-port/ multi-fuel injector system....the problem is more specific to cylinder. Once again, your engine sounds like it's not a total loss. Use this as an excuse to making it faster and more bullet proof!

 

even more the reason not to go supercharged and stick with NA

 

Maybe power corrupts, but it's hard to get much more than a 10 percent bump in horsepower in the AMG 55 M113 motor without getting the blow job. True, Brabus and MKB do offer N/A soluitons that reach 430 HP,give or take a few ponies. It's done by increasing capacity to 6.1 or 6.2 litres, new pistons etc. The cost is double the Kleemann setup. So you pays yer money ....

BTW Kleemann can change the pulley size to reduce boost. That might be a bit of an insurance policy. But one burned cylinder does not a bad blower make....

 

Its only at 7 PSI!!!!!!!!! I would never turn down the boost. If I had someone that could tune my car for 10 PSI I'd throw bigger injectors and get a smaller pulley CNC'd and have it tuned! Maybe throw some H20 injection on there as a safety measure. Put some race gas in that biatch for EXTRA security and say hello to low 11's!