j-mo

Hello,

I'm wondering if someone might know what just went wrong with my 02 CLK55. I was driving home and was getting on the highway. I had the car in 2nd (manual) and accelerated pretty hard. I shifted up to 3rd and the car did not shift. I got the "ESP - Visit Workshop" malfunction. I pretty much had no power. I threw on the hazzards and pulled over. I shut the car off and waited a few seconds and started her backup. It seemed fine but the "Check Engine" light is now on
I got home fine but once I got off the highway I noticed it seems jerky when taking off from a stop. Throttle response is poorer than normal and it even died on me. If I rev it in park it clearly has less power.
I just read about "Check Engine" in my owners manual and it talks about the SFI Control Module. Says it could be malfunction of the fuel mgmt, emission control system etc.
I'm hoping it just freaked out and will be happy tomorrow. I got the ESP warning one time since owning the car and and a restart cleared it. This is my first Check Engine though.

Thanks for any info!

320 dreamer

take it to the auto store and have the codes read. then post the codes here for a better understanding of whats going on

j-mo

I just took the car to Pepboys to get the codes.

They reported the following 2 codes.

P0100 - TPS (throttle position sensor)
PO221 - circuit malfunction

Looks like they mixed them up - I found this site.

http://www.autoshoppingcenter.com/OB...ublecodes.html

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem

It died on me on the way over so I'm guessing 0221 is the culprit and the cause for the hesitation.

Anyone familiar with these and know what repair cost might be?

Thanks!

320 dreamer

for future reference.

http://www.buellwinkle.com/MBOBD2.html

cindyclk

replace the MAF....usually the cause w/ your symptoms....you can clean it w/electronic spray cleaner but usually is only a temporary fix

velvet fog

Replace your MAF first. This was a very common failure item on the W208s. When it fails, you get a default fuel map that should cause your gas mileage to drop and your transmission to feel like it's not shifting right, at least that's what happened to my CLK and also what the SA said when I took it in for repairs. The MAF failure can also cause other codes to appear which is why you should replace the MAF first and see if the check engine light returns.

j-mo

Thanks for the info. I have an extended warranty and am going to drop it at the dealer this morning. I hate to bring it there but am hoping this fix is covered as my warranty is pretty through. I was trying to gather as much info as I can so I'm ready for any dealer BS.

velvet fog

If you have a MB or CPO warranty, it will be covered for sure. For a non MB warranty, check the fine print.

Cost without warranty is about $800.

j-mo

Thanks - my extended warranty is with Prizm - Total Protection plan - level. Still waiting to hear back from them.

j-mo

Just got a call from the dealer and they found a bunch of issues. The MAF Sensor is the Check Engine culprit. They said the relay is stuck open. Other new issues.

Left Motor mount
Transmount and trans connector (causing leak)
Rear main seal leak (between engine and trans)
Front lower ball joints are loose
Front springs are broken (knew about this)

All the new items are listed as covered except the springs so hopefully I will be good there. I can't help feeling skeptical about it though. I had new front brakes and rotors done by a recommended independent shop a few months back. They supposedly looked over the car. Maybe not so thoroughly or maybe all these issues just sprung up. They told me about the springs at the time but said a piece broke off at the bottom of the spring and it's not a big deal right now. They say it is pretty common. Not sure about that?

Next - have to see what my warranty company says. I've had the car 1.5 years and the brakes and oil are all I've done. I'd like to take advantage of my warranty since I paid $3500 for it. I know mounts are pretty common wear items on this car.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

cindyclk

If all of these are covered, why would you hesitate? 208's all need mounts sooner or later. Get they done while your warranty covers it.

j-mo

I know, I will not hesitate. If it's covered of course, I'm just leery of Stealerships and all the problems the are able to always find.
My warranty company sent out an adjuster to take pics b/c they did not believe them about the problems. I feel a battle brewing

MarcusF

Motor mounts are normal wear items. The trans mount will break if the broken motor mount is ignored. Ball joints are normal wear items. The transmission connector goes out on a lot of cars equipped with a 722.6 transmission (I had mine replaced and it wasn’t leaking. If it leaks and is ignored, the TCU can go bad).

Two things I don’t understand:
(1) I don’t know why the rear main started leaking. If it were the diff seals, I’d understand. Those go out in these cars. A rear main in an automatic equipped car usually points to something else. When the dealer drops the trans they’ll find out why.
(2) How does someone ‘break the springs’? I understand a cracked spring perch, but the springs themselves?

Lastly, the guy who did the brakes may have missed all this stuff - although he should have caught the ball joints. All he had to do is lift the car, grap the wheel, and check for vertical play. Although, if the springs are cracked, ball joints may be hard to diagnose.

Lastly, have the steering gear bolts been re-torqued? That's another easy one that many independants miss. It only takes 5 minutes.

j-mo

I guess we will see what they find out about that rear main leak. This was news to me. Question about that - since they have to drop the trans will I be getting a trans flush by default? Maybe they will just replace what they lose in dropping it? Now might be a good time to get it done?

I agree on the springs, I can't imagine them ever breaking and I did not see them. Again, the independent said it broke off on the ends. I'm pretty sure that is not covered so I will hold off cause I want to get some Euro-Spec AMG springs sometime soon.

I do think the Independent missed some stuff. At the time I was up for a B Service. They change the oil and "look over the car" for $90. I'll take $90 over $400 any day but I get the feeling they weren't very through. I recall asking when I picked it up after the brake job if they checked the air filters and the guy said, "should have." That's reassuring

I'm not sure about the steering gear bolts but I will ask them.

Thanks for the info MarkusF!

j-mo

I heard back from the dealer who heard from the warranty folks.

They are not covering the MAF - cost is $660.

They are covering:
Left Motor Mount
Trans mount
Trans connector and leak
lower ball joints
lower control arm bushings
rear main seal leak

They said I am missing a rear shifter bushing which I told them to hold off on.

Question about the MAF - is it easy to replace? AutohausAZ has bosch MAF for $147. I could buy that plus new air filters for $180.
I've searched the forums and could not find steps to replace the MAF, maybe its that easy!

Thanks-

SaMaS

do MAF yourself its easy to change.... $660 crazy money

bujikara

I accept with covering:
Left Motor Mount
Trans mount
Trans connector and leak
lower ball joints
lower control arm bushings
rear main seal leak

M-bENZ

I think this should help you...same procedure. Anyway, try to clean the MAF sensor with CRC first see what happens or if u really want to replace then go head its just my opinion. I just cleaned my MAF sensors while im installing the K&N filters to my ride.

http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...-MAF-5x100.jpg

My MAF sensor with CRC cleaner,

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...21-09_1345.jpg


Andy

j-mo

Thanks for this info Andy. It will def help. I ended up ordering a new MAF and filters from AutohausAZ for $179. And just bought OBD2 scanner for $75. Will save about $300 doing it myself.

j-mo

I finally got my car back today and still having issues. The dealer did all the covered repairs but I choose to do the MAF myself to save $500. Well it took my about and hour but I replaced the MAF and installed 2 new OEM air filters.
I had also purchase this code reader:

http://www.equus.com/product_info.ph...gory_id=1_10_7

So I connect up, turn the ignition on and it spits out PO100 - which seems to be the MAF again (No 221 code btw). Fine, I am going to clear this code and drive and see what happens. Mt problem is it won't clear. I hit erase, confirm and "FAIL." Then the PO100 codes is there again. The book for this reader says nothing about FAIL. The book and the FAQ"s on Equus' website pretty much say they can be cleared. I would think I could clear and it might come back

Anyone seen this or have any ideas? Please tell me I'm tired and missing something and that I don't have to take it back to the dealer tomorrow...

Thanks!

Lindsey

Was you ever able to get the issues resolved? I am experiencing the exact same problems with my 02 clk 55, same original error message, codes and all.
I know my MAF is bad, and maybe my mounts too.

Thanks