01 CLK55 Central Locking Failure, trunk access denied.
Yesterday after loading some items in the trunk, I shut it, and thought nothing more of it. Last night when attempting to pop the trunk with the console release or the key fob, I got nothing. Normally I can hear the vacuum pump kick on but it isn't even activating. Also, because the pump isn't working, the whole central locking system is not working.
I've checked the fuses, under the hood, and I know there are two other central locking fuses in the trunk, but I literally have no way to open the trunk. The metal emergency key will unlock the driver's door, but will not unlock the trunk.
I know the rear seat backs will fold down, but the releases are in the trunk aren't they? I can't find any releases inside the car to release the back seats, unless I'm just overlooking them. Even getting the seats to release it's going to be difficult to fit my 6'4" 250 pound body in there to get the trunk open.
Anyone know of a way to release the rear seat backs from inside the car?
I plan to see if I can reach one of the releases through the pass-through this evening. Wish me luck!
I am in the middle of gutting the interior of my 2002 and it's pretty bare right now. I can look at it tonight to see what your options might be, but offhand I can't think of any way this is going to be easy. Sorry. :-(
Rust penetrating oil sprayed into lock mechanism might or might not help?
MB is notoroius for seized trunk lock cylinders!
There are protection plastic plugs you can buy at the stealership to protect the lock mechanism.
I have these plugs on my car, never had any problems.
Always keep one of the rear foldings backrests unlocked just in case there is a prob with cylinder lock
I am in the middle of gutting the interior of my 2002 and it's pretty bare right now. I can look at it tonight to see what your options might be, but offhand I can't think of any way this is going to be easy. Sorry. :-(
I did not know that the emergency key would not open the trunk, until the central locking vacuum pump quit working a few days ago.
Didn't you read the entire thread? My battery is not dead. The car starts fine. The central locking pump has quit working, which means the trunk will not open regardless of the state of the battery.
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I found the vacuum line running to the servo that pops the trunk release, behind the now destroyed trunk lining, I cut it and used the hand vacuum pump from my brake bleeder kit (seriously it isn't Swedish made), and no matter how high, or low I got the vacuum the damn thing will not pop the trunk release. I am beginning to believe that the trunk release mechanism is just broken, and the multiple times I tried to get the trunk to pop with the switch and fob, just caused the fuse to blow.
I am seriously trying to avoid hacking the trunk floor liner/spare tire cover to get to the fuses. It's all in good shape and I while I'm sure I can get another cover from any W208 CLK and it will be the same, getting through that material is going to be a challenge.
So, rather than hack that, I noticed a small square right where the trunk "post" is mounted, and popped it open. I can see two 10mm bolts and I am hoping that those two bolts are all that is holding the post in place and by removing those bolts, I'll be able to at least get the trunk open. I'm also considering that if I do get the trunk open, I'm going to find another trunk lid that comes with a metal key to replace this one. I seriously considered just putting the car up for sale, or setting it on fire. I'm too damn old to be crawling around inside such a confined space.
It got dark on me before I tried the bolts for the post, so I gave up and had more beer.
Last edited by DaddyMoose; Oct 23, 2018 at 01:33 PM.
Otherwise, I think those two 10mm bolts are your ticket to salvation. Remove those and the trunk should open, taking the striker with it.
Also, I have a ski bag and plastic door you can have.
Otherwise, I think those two 10mm bolts are your ticket to salvation. Remove those and the trunk should open, taking the striker with it.
Also, I have a ski bag and plastic door you can have.
Mine is available if you need another one. Looks like it has never been used. You pay shipping and it’s yours.
I have to mention my personal opinion that the American Assembled MBs are not as good as the ones from Germany, and I wish MB had never gotten in bed with Chrysler. Of course in the days everyone being in bed with someone else, I suppose it could be worse. Someone like Fiat could own Chrysler... wait, does that mean that MB is now in bed with Fiat... that's just wrong.
I have to mention my personal opinion that the American Assembled MBs are not as good as the ones from Germany, and I wish MB had never gotten in bed with Chrysler. Of course in the days everyone being in bed with someone else, I suppose it could be worse. Someone like Fiat could own Chrysler... wait, does that mean that MB is now in bed with Fiat... that's just wrong.
sorry for us trying to help you...you asked how to get it open and we told you....if you didn't want help, why do you bother asking for help ...other than to ***** about MB and the solution to your problem.
Sorry I used big words, allow me to rephrase.
You don't read good.
Me like german built cars.
Me like job.
Your advice was bad.
Second, I would like to tell everyone who may wander into this thread, that the advice that CindyCLK has suggested, is completely inaccurate and would result in needless damage to your CLK, therefor the post suggesting this needless damage will be reported, and hopefully removed by the moderators.
This is a picture of the trunk side of the rear deck. Directly under the First Aid Kit. Breaking through the bottom of the first aid kit would not allow access to the rear seat releases.
And third, and I'm almost certain this will be lost on you, "Sarcasm is the recourse of a weak mind." -- Dr. Zachary Smith Lost In Space
And with that, take your bad advice, your childish attempts at sarcasm, and your attitude and leave while you have some shred of dignity left, because according to the Bible: Even a fool is thought wise if he keeps silent.


The 30 amp #2 fuse to the pump was blown. Since I don't want to have to go through this again, I'm replacing both of the central locking pump fuses #2 and #4 in the trunk with Maxi Fuse Breakers which break connection over the rated amperage, and reset a few seconds after the load stops. They're about $4.00 each, but at least I won't have to go through all of this for a blown fuse again. I'm also putting a new pump in, there's obviously some reason the fuse blew, so if the pump is the reason the fuse blew in the first place, I want to eliminate that potential issue down the road.



