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I was coming home from work the other day, got about 5 houses away and the car threw the belt. Stiff steering and the alt light were the indicator.
I finally got around to looking into it and discovered my crank bolt backed out.
Edit….
I cleaned up the crank and the woodruff key is definitely rounded off. I have a new pulley but I’m not installing it like this. Can anyone advise who sells a crank pin kit for an M113? I’ve been digging around but haven’t found a good answer other than making one myself.
Last edited by S_Holford; Mar 11, 2023 at 10:41 PM.
Have you looked around on the W211 E55 page? They seem to run into this issue quite often and many of them have pinned the crank. Whatever kit they are using might work for you.
Damn… same thing happened to mine…looks like yours got it worse!!!
your woodruff key still looks pretty good.
many be able to square it up. I’m still trying to find out if you can remove/replace it like it is in your picture.
i have found a tool to pin crank but I’m trying to avoid it. The key is replaceable by removing timing cover etc I am trying to find out if it can be done with out.
In the meantime I built my woodruff key back up with jb weld… may just send it like that… what did you end up doing?
I haven't had time to address it yet due to my work schedule. I drained the coolant and started removing the radiator. If I do pin it I'll need the additional room to drill, If not I'll just have more room to work and less aggravation. I initially wanted to replace the woodruff key, but I assume the crank gear will need to come off. If I'm doing that I might as well do the timing chain too....see where this is headed lol? The car has 115K on it now and still runs great. It's been one of the most reliable cars I've ever owned until this happened.
This is the route I was going to take. https://stumptownbenz.com/pinning-th...ercedes-m113k/
Only issue is I don't have access to a lathe, but I do have a drill press. My measurement to drill had better be dead nuts though. Also, I bought the crank holder tool and the 3 "nubs" were long enough to engage the original pulley, by not the updated one with different shaped holes. I'm not a huge fan of jamming something in the flexplate teeth or using torque converter bolts against that much torque if I don't absolutely have to.
As for the pinning tool you found, is it specific to the M113? I haven't poked around the W211 threads yet but I'd rather buy the right tool/jig for drilling if it's available. Between this and my S55, one of these cars need to get fixed soon.
Have you looked around on the W211 E55 page? They seem to run into this issue quite often and many of them have pinned the crank. Whatever kit they are using might work for you.
Thanks for the reply, I'll have to poke around over there.
2000 ML55 AMG 2001 CLK55 AMG coupe 2002 CLK55 AMG Cabriolet 2025 BMW M2 6MT
Great news… I got my woodruff key out, new one should slide right in. $2 from dealership. Looks like yours has enough meat on it to remove very tiny flat head to pry up front then dykes and channel locks to pull out!
don’t see why it shouldn’t be good to go.
sorry this happened on your CLK55 I had replaced mine preventatively around 170k miles this happened on my ML55 @ 166k.
only balancer available seems to be benz 113 PN $420 @ fcpeuro but can be had for $320 through Benz themselves part website.
i think things should be good to go… all things considering haha
just make sure new bolt is torqued down with tool correctly!
2000 ML55 AMG 2001 CLK55 AMG coupe 2002 CLK55 AMG Cabriolet 2025 BMW M2 6MT
Haha we’re in the same boat
I too was planning on doing Joes (stumptown Benz’s) pinning method…
but the more I thought about it especially with price of new pulley I wanted it as last resort
went to my guy who just so happened to have pinned a crank on m113k. Showed him joes post…he pulled out one that they had fabricated and it lined up/should work perfectly!
so that was my tentative plan…while ordering all the parts in prep for that I figured let me just double check… the key is available from Benz and I was concerned with possibly pulling timing cover etc but was only the case for people with no key left unlike ours. No direction if it could be removed without removing crank timing pulley… in my case I managed to get it out…so one can go back in.
i had actually built up jb steel on the worn down one figuring I would send that first without pinning to see how it goes.
but with a new woodruff key installed and torqued correctly I’m hoping it will be fine
I had to pop the front seal to get in there to remove…but leaving new one in freezer overnight should make for easy install
I too was planning on doing Joes (stumptown Benz’s) pinning method…
but the more I thought about it especially with price of new pulley I wanted it as last resort
went to my guy who just so happened to have pinned a crank on m113k. Showed him joes post…he pulled out one that they had fabricated and it lined up/should work perfectly!
so that was my tentative plan…while ordering all the parts in prep for that I figured let me just double check… the key is available from Benz and I was concerned with possibly pulling timing cover etc but was only the case for people with no key left unlike ours. No direction if it could be removed without removing crank timing pulley… in my case I managed to get it out…so one can go back in.
i had actually built up jb steel on the worn down one figuring I would send that first without pinning to see how it goes.
but with a new woodruff key installed and torqued correctly I’m hoping it will be fine
I had to pop the front seal to get in there to remove…but leaving new one in freezer overnight should make for easy install
Originally Posted by quik55
Did my clk55 pulley years ago but had same issue with tool. And have since seen something similar on Mercedes’ wis
I had to add a short socket and build up one tooth approx 1/2” with electrical tape but it worked.
If you got your key out successfully, I’ll give mine a shot then. I’ve already pulled the oil seal anyway, makes no sense to not replace it right now.
Like you, something about drilling into a new $400 pulley doesn’t sit well with me either but I also don’t want this issue again.
As for the tool, I have access to a welder at work. I’ll probably add some small pieces of round stock to it and be done with it.
Thanks for renewing my motivation in getting back to it. I appreciate the responses.
2000 ML55 AMG 2001 CLK55 AMG coupe 2002 CLK55 AMG Cabriolet 2025 BMW M2 6MT
No worries. Mine looked exactly like yours when I first removed. Filing down/squaring down the key in there might help. But a flat chisel and hammer lightly should get it to lift. May take some time/finesse.
my other issue with pinning is if it does all work…and the car lasts… will be having to try and pin the new pulley one with crankshaft already done if it goes for any reason.
but due to our similar situation probably from factory they backed out. Looks like rtv was used as locktite haha.
i have 20k+ miles on my clk55 balancer with some high heat locktite I’m prettt confident after torqueing it to correct specs.
I’ll be waiting on parts until next week but will be slapping it back together and seeing what happens.
2000 ML55 AMG 2001 CLK55 AMG coupe 2002 CLK55 AMG Cabriolet 2025 BMW M2 6MT
Just a note…
this photo from research as well as just messing with the key seeing it was moveable was what lead me to try. The M113 AMG engine parts diagram does not show it as being a part of the shaft. Number 30 in diagram… however Mercedes’ woodruff key provided this PN
006888-004000
looks nearly identical and per pelican parts next to a quarter hoping it is. However there does seem to be universal woodruff keys available etc.
this photo from research as well as just messing with the key seeing it was moveable was what lead me to try. The M113 AMG engine parts diagram does not show it as being a part of the shaft. Number 30 in diagram… however Mercedes’ woodruff key provided this PN
006888-004000
looks nearly identical and per pelican parts next to a quarter hoping it is. However there does seem to be universal woodruff keys available etc.
I’ve dealt with these woodruff keys before, was just unsure if it was in deep enough to a point where it couldn’t be pried upward because of the crank gear.
I have a handful in the garage from past projects but I’ll order the correct one anyway.
2000 ML55 AMG 2001 CLK55 AMG coupe 2002 CLK55 AMG Cabriolet 2025 BMW M2 6MT
I was one number off on the PN for the woodruff key… guy at Benz should have caught it… oh well will have to go back to confirm correct one Tuesday smh.
How many harmonic balancers did MB have redesigned by now?
Early ones failed and they updated later versions.
Rubber on HB is it still prone to fail from engine heat?
Many years ago there was a vendor on this forum called AMS who sold HB made out of aluminum.
If I remember correct seller didn't receive good feedback about his performance parts?
How many harmonic balancers did MB have redesigned by now?
Early ones failed and they updated later versions.
Rubber on HB is it still prone to fail from engine heat?
Many years ago there was a vendor on this forum called AMS who sold HB made out of aluminum.
If I remember correct seller didn't receive good feedback about his performance parts?
I remember those. Those had the rubber elastomer too. I recall reading a thread where a lot of members were challenging the HP increase claims.
I managed to get my woodruff key out too. Mine was a beat up so it entailed a little drilling to create a point to pry upward from. I removed my radiator and condenser first to save the cussing. That key is tiny and I'm surprised anything was left after the beating it took from the HB. I'm glad I don't have to bother pinning it now.
Last edited by S_Holford; May 12, 2023 at 12:07 AM.
Reason: Mispelling
I managed to get ahold of some standard (imperial) woodruff keys to test fit. I figured these were metric but had to see for myself. An imperial key will fit but it's not the correct tight fit.
Rather than waiting 7-10 days for the "Mercedes key", I've sourced some metric ones locally. I believe these are just standard metric keys, 22x6x9mm (length, width, height). I've matched the existing one the best I could with the exception of length since it was drilled. FWIW, these woodruff keys are not hardened, so there is nothing special about them as far as I know. I'll confirm tomorrow after work.
Update… and great news!
I’ll be honest… getting the new/correct woodruff key in there was a bit of a challenge. Trusty snap on hammer with anything soft/small enough I could smack it in there I sent it while torquing down bolt. She spun so straight on first start.
replaced oil filter housing gasket while I was at it… almost stripped that fubaring the whole thing… but only let a little aluminum into the engine… icing on the cake for me lol
hope this works out for you… she’s done 100 miles I’ve just had to top off trans fluid since I replaced cooler lines and 13 pin connector… and tighten up the snake clamp at thermostat that dripped a little at shut off
I torqued to 150 ft lb which is pretty tough! Then the extra turn… believe me you’ll know when it’s in there 😂 will damn near lift the car off the ground.
a HARD 100 miles at that.
hope this helps you and anyone else
who reads it in the future.
I'll probably borrow one of the big torque wrenches from work so the job won't be bad. Is anyone adding blue loc-tite to these bolts or just dry torquing them?
Car is back in business as of last week. New woodruff key, crank seal, balancer, bolt and belt. I added some torque stripe for the sake of eyeballing it once in awhile. I’m about 40 miles in with no issues.
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