will 15s fit in my trunk?
01-16-2013, 10:49 PM
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cls 500
will 15s fit in my trunk?
Ok am online doing a little bit of audio shopping for my cls 500 I want to order 2 kicker l7 15s but am not sure that they will fit in my trunk with the box I don't want to order them and they don't fit cause ill order some 12s if I got to
01-17-2013, 09:40 AM
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2014 CLS550 4MATIC MATTE WHITE / CLASSIC RED
Nope, I bought a kicker box with 2 - 12L7. could not even get half of the box in the trunk!
I had custom box built, all bass thru the center rear seat arm rest! And still have trunk space.
I had custom box built, all bass thru the center rear seat arm rest! And still have trunk space.
Last edited by JEYVILLE; 01-17-2013 at 09:50 AM.
01-17-2013, 10:49 PM
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2014 CLS550 4MATIC MATTE WHITE / CLASSIC RED
01-18-2013, 02:57 PM
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CLS550 AMG Pkg.
I am running a Bassworx HPR212G, dimensions are 83.8(W) x 40.0(H) x 39.7(D) cm, hope this helps you figure out if the box you are considering will fit.
me and another person had to tilt the box slightly forward when lowering it into the trunk, it barely fit, as in we had no clearance at the front of the box and had to slide it down into the trunk. Based on that I'd say the 39.7cm depth is the most you can go in the W219 CLS trunk
me and another person had to tilt the box slightly forward when lowering it into the trunk, it barely fit, as in we had no clearance at the front of the box and had to slide it down into the trunk. Based on that I'd say the 39.7cm depth is the most you can go in the W219 CLS trunk
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01-20-2013, 07:27 AM
#8
15's will go in but you will have to run a sealed box which is pants..especially for a 15! You would be better off running a 10 or a 12 ported TBH!
Saying that, im trying to squeeze in a pair of 18s in the boot of my CLS
Saying that, im trying to squeeze in a pair of 18s in the boot of my CLS
02-06-2013, 06:13 AM
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CLS 550
Can any of you tell me what type of line out converter your using? I have and Audio Control LCi and wonder if it's over kill. has anybody's figured out wire the ba the base game knob through the trunk?
02-06-2013, 07:18 AM
#10
Theres a few ways you can integrate with the OEM headunit...
Cheap - HiLow convertors - general speaker level converters. These convert the High level (speaker level) outputs into Low level RCA outputs. They reduce the output voltage from the speaker level outputs, down to a more acceptable 0.5-2v of output.
These just need to be connected to a pair of output channels (from the amp in the Merc's case), preferably a full range signal.
The problem here is you have to source an ignition live or remote output from the headunit/amp, and sometimes this method is prone to unwanted noise
This is a cheap method for a reason BUT it does work. Generally around £15-50
Medium - Something like the Audio control LC6 etc...this method will accept speaker level inputs but allows you to adjust input and output senstivity to help reduce noise and makes gain matching easier between the unit and amp. Often are auto-switching with means they turn on and off when they sense voltage through the speaker inputs. They also generally supply a remote output to turn amps on and off.
Bit more setting up required but less prone to noise and easy to set up and gain match. Often supply more than one pair of outputs.
Some of these also have auto-summing features which enable you to connect them to OEM factory units that have seperate channels for high/mid/low frequencies. This will sum them all up and give you a full range signal.
Normally around £100-350
Top End - Full on processors. These accept speaker level inputs, and give you many RCA outputs to connect to your amps. Also provide remote outputs. These processors not only give you RCA outputs, but they also allow you to EQ the signal to any sort of curve you want, also give you adjustable outputs so you can limit each pair of channels to play whatever frequencies you want them to (one set of channels to play your tweeters, one to play your midrange, one to play midbass, one to play your subs).
You can also time delay each speaker in the system - the speaker close to you, you can pull them back to play ever so slightly behind (time wise) the speaker furthest away from you. This allows you to set the soundstage properly and at the centre of the dash.
You can phase invert each speaker to play in-phase or out of phase against other speakers in the system.
This usually costs upwards of £450
This is the best method....unless......you want to take out the whole Comand system out the vehicle and replace everything from headunit, to amps etc
02-06-2013, 06:10 PM
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CLS 550
What LCi have you got?
Theres a few ways you can integrate with the OEM headunit...
Cheap - HiLow convertors - general speaker level converters. These convert the High level (speaker level) outputs into Low level RCA outputs. They reduce the output voltage from the speaker level outputs, down to a more acceptable 0.5-2v of output.
These just need to be connected to a pair of output channels (from the amp in the Merc's case), preferably a full range signal.
The problem here is you have to source an ignition live or remote output from the headunit/amp, and sometimes this method is prone to unwanted noise
This is a cheap method for a reason BUT it does work. Generally around £15-50
Medium - Something like the Audio control LC6 etc...this method will accept speaker level inputs but allows you to adjust input and output senstivity to help reduce noise and makes gain matching easier between the unit and amp. Often are auto-switching with means they turn on and off when they sense voltage through the speaker inputs. They also generally supply a remote output to turn amps on and off.
Bit more setting up required but less prone to noise and easy to set up and gain match. Often supply more than one pair of outputs.
Some of these also have auto-summing features which enable you to connect them to OEM factory units that have seperate channels for high/mid/low frequencies. This will sum them all up and give you a full range signal.
Normally around £100-350
Top End - Full on processors. These accept speaker level inputs, and give you many RCA outputs to connect to your amps. Also provide remote outputs. These processors not only give you RCA outputs, but they also allow you to EQ the signal to any sort of curve you want, also give you adjustable outputs so you can limit each pair of channels to play whatever frequencies you want them to (one set of channels to play your tweeters, one to play your midrange, one to play midbass, one to play your subs).
You can also time delay each speaker in the system - the speaker close to you, you can pull them back to play ever so slightly behind (time wise) the speaker furthest away from you. This allows you to set the soundstage properly and at the centre of the dash.
You can phase invert each speaker to play in-phase or out of phase against other speakers in the system.
This usually costs upwards of £450
This is the best method....unless......you want to take out the whole Comand system out the vehicle and replace everything from headunit, to amps etc
Theres a few ways you can integrate with the OEM headunit...
Cheap - HiLow convertors - general speaker level converters. These convert the High level (speaker level) outputs into Low level RCA outputs. They reduce the output voltage from the speaker level outputs, down to a more acceptable 0.5-2v of output.
These just need to be connected to a pair of output channels (from the amp in the Merc's case), preferably a full range signal.
The problem here is you have to source an ignition live or remote output from the headunit/amp, and sometimes this method is prone to unwanted noise
This is a cheap method for a reason BUT it does work. Generally around £15-50
Medium - Something like the Audio control LC6 etc...this method will accept speaker level inputs but allows you to adjust input and output senstivity to help reduce noise and makes gain matching easier between the unit and amp. Often are auto-switching with means they turn on and off when they sense voltage through the speaker inputs. They also generally supply a remote output to turn amps on and off.
Bit more setting up required but less prone to noise and easy to set up and gain match. Often supply more than one pair of outputs.
Some of these also have auto-summing features which enable you to connect them to OEM factory units that have seperate channels for high/mid/low frequencies. This will sum them all up and give you a full range signal.
Normally around £100-350
Top End - Full on processors. These accept speaker level inputs, and give you many RCA outputs to connect to your amps. Also provide remote outputs. These processors not only give you RCA outputs, but they also allow you to EQ the signal to any sort of curve you want, also give you adjustable outputs so you can limit each pair of channels to play whatever frequencies you want them to (one set of channels to play your tweeters, one to play your midrange, one to play midbass, one to play your subs).
You can also time delay each speaker in the system - the speaker close to you, you can pull them back to play ever so slightly behind (time wise) the speaker furthest away from you. This allows you to set the soundstage properly and at the centre of the dash.
You can phase invert each speaker to play in-phase or out of phase against other speakers in the system.
This usually costs upwards of £450
This is the best method....unless......you want to take out the whole Comand system out the vehicle and replace everything from headunit, to amps etc
Wow,
What a good write up? I have an Audio Control LC6i that I may pair with my old Sundown SAE 1500D. I'm not sure if the Merc can handle the wattage at 2ohm load. Also , I want to be able to adjust the BASS gain on the fly. Currently I have not found a way to run the wire from the trunk becuase there is no gap. JBL has an amp JBL MS-A5001 with a Wireless Bass Remote Controller JBL MS-WBC. Currently, I have an 12 FI Q sub that I would like to run at 60Hz. I just want to use the sub for the lowes to compliment the system. My method for installation that I trust that works is posted here https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe...urs-total.html.
02-06-2013, 06:21 PM
#12
Hi, you have a good kit list there...the Fi Q will sing in the boot! Do you know how you will be firing this into the cabin? The two methods I have found best for a sealed solution is firing the sub through the ski hatch, or bolting the sub box up to the shelf where the OEM sub would fire through. Either method will work well if your not after big spl!
There are many passages from the cabin to the trunk, you just have to remove the back seat to see them. Trust me there is plenty of room there! Or another option if you don't want to remove the rear seats, remove the c pillars and the door seal and any panelling near there, this should allow you to see the route of the car loom running through.
If it helps ill take pictures of my cls tomorrow so you can see the areas I'm talking about.
Also, consider selling the Fi Q and going for an infinite baffle install using either the Fi IB3 or the Ascendant Audio Havoc in IB format. Means no box in the boot and some smooth bass like no box can offer!
Ill be doing a write up of my audio system as I progress with it in my car.
There are many passages from the cabin to the trunk, you just have to remove the back seat to see them. Trust me there is plenty of room there! Or another option if you don't want to remove the rear seats, remove the c pillars and the door seal and any panelling near there, this should allow you to see the route of the car loom running through.
If it helps ill take pictures of my cls tomorrow so you can see the areas I'm talking about.
Also, consider selling the Fi Q and going for an infinite baffle install using either the Fi IB3 or the Ascendant Audio Havoc in IB format. Means no box in the boot and some smooth bass like no box can offer!
Ill be doing a write up of my audio system as I progress with it in my car.
02-06-2013, 06:25 PM
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Hi, you have a good kit list there...the Fi Q will sing in the boot! Do you know how you will be firing this into the cabin? The two methods I have found best for a sealed solution is firing the sub through the ski hatch, or bolting the sub box up to the shelf where the OEM sub would fire through. Either method will work well if your not after big spl!
There are many passages from the cabin to the trunk, you just have to remove the back seat to see them. Trust me there is plenty of room there! Or another option if you don't want to remove the rear seats, remove the c pillars and the door seal and any panelling near there, this should allow you to see the route of the car loom running through.
If it helps ill take pictures of my cls tomorrow so you can see the areas I'm talking about.
Also, consider selling the Fi Q and going for an infinite baffle install using either the Fi IB3 or the Ascendant Audio Havoc in IB format. Means no box in the boot and some smooth bass like no box can offer!
Ill be doing a write up of my audio system as I progress with it in my car.
There are many passages from the cabin to the trunk, you just have to remove the back seat to see them. Trust me there is plenty of room there! Or another option if you don't want to remove the rear seats, remove the c pillars and the door seal and any panelling near there, this should allow you to see the route of the car loom running through.
If it helps ill take pictures of my cls tomorrow so you can see the areas I'm talking about.
Also, consider selling the Fi Q and going for an infinite baffle install using either the Fi IB3 or the Ascendant Audio Havoc in IB format. Means no box in the boot and some smooth bass like no box can offer!
Ill be doing a write up of my audio system as I progress with it in my car.
Okay maybe I'm a scrub but what ski hatch. Is that the space between the two rear seats. Does that open up?
and help in relations to "sing in the boot" LOL!
Last edited by freemanjc; 02-06-2013 at 06:27 PM.
02-06-2013, 06:30 PM
#14
Yes, pull the rear arm rest down, pull the plastic panel away (you will see what I mean once the armrest is down). The. You will be greeted with some sound deadening (like loft insulation). This insulation is already cut with slits along it where the skit hatch is. Pull that portion of the deadening away, and you will see a metal panel with 4 curved corners cut out...this is only if the ski hatchway not taken out previously. You can simply cut this panel out with tin snips and you have access to your boot, which is in turn where the sub will sit firing into the cabin
02-06-2013, 06:43 PM
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Yes, pull the rear arm rest down, pull the plastic panel away (you will see what I mean once the armrest is down). The. You will be greeted with some sound deadening (like loft insulation). This insulation is already cut with slits along it where the skit hatch is. Pull that portion of the deadening away, and you will see a metal panel with 4 curved corners cut out...this is only if the ski hatchway not taken out previously. You can simply cut this panel out with tin snips and you have access to your boot, which is in turn where the sub will sit firing into the cabin
Tin Snips I got it. I was reading fast and thought I red ten snips! LOL
R,
Free
Last edited by freemanjc; 02-06-2013 at 06:45 PM.
02-06-2013, 07:00 PM
#16
Yep tin snips is the tool you need...or an angle grinder...just simply join the lines and cut! Very easy!
Yes you will have no issue with the 1500d amp...I will be running over 2000wrms class AB power so will have around 250amps of current draw if I was playing at full chat!
Infinite baffle simply means mounting wood upto the opening area and cutting a hole so the sub can sit in it. The idea is the subs front wave cannot interrupt the subs rear wave and vice versa. This means you have to ensure all big holes in the shelf and rear bulkhead are fully sealed off and there is no chance the front and rear waves can meet. Ill try finding a picture and posting it for you.
I'm fitting two Ascendant Audio Havoc 18s in the trunk this way
Yes you will have no issue with the 1500d amp...I will be running over 2000wrms class AB power so will have around 250amps of current draw if I was playing at full chat!
Infinite baffle simply means mounting wood upto the opening area and cutting a hole so the sub can sit in it. The idea is the subs front wave cannot interrupt the subs rear wave and vice versa. This means you have to ensure all big holes in the shelf and rear bulkhead are fully sealed off and there is no chance the front and rear waves can meet. Ill try finding a picture and posting it for you.
I'm fitting two Ascendant Audio Havoc 18s in the trunk this way
02-06-2013, 07:04 PM
#17
A quick google for infinite baffle installation gives these results
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=in...OW10QWQroGwAQ#
As you can see, the relative pics show subs mounted up with no rear enclosure
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=in...OW10QWQroGwAQ#
As you can see, the relative pics show subs mounted up with no rear enclosure
02-06-2013, 07:09 PM
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A quick google for infinite baffle installation gives these results
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=in...OW10QWQroGwAQ#
As you can see, the relative pics show subs mounted up with no rear enclosure
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=in...OW10QWQroGwAQ#
As you can see, the relative pics show subs mounted up with no rear enclosure
02-08-2013, 03:21 PM
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The stock subwoofers wires to tap into are the Yellow and Brown correct
Can anybody verify this? Anybody out there that can answer this. Also, I think the ski rack wall is plastic. Feels lile plastic too. I thinking a recipricatin saw should do the trick. Just need to verify the say blade Plastic or sheet metal? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Can anybody verify this? Anybody out there that can answer this. Also, I think the ski rack wall is plastic. Feels lile plastic too. I thinking a recipricatin saw should do the trick. Just need to verify the say blade Plastic or sheet metal? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by freemanjc; 02-10-2013 at 03:41 PM. Reason: Correction
02-15-2013, 10:45 PM
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The stock subwoofers wires to tap into are the Yellow and Brown correct
Can anybody verify this? Anybody out there that can answer this. Also, I think the ski rack wall is plastic. Feels lile plastic too. I thinking a recipricatin saw should do the trick. Just need to verify the say blade Plastic or sheet metal? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Can anybody verify this? Anybody out there that can answer this. Also, I think the ski rack wall is plastic. Feels lile plastic too. I thinking a recipricatin saw should do the trick. Just need to verify the say blade Plastic or sheet metal? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ok just to keep people update. I purchased this amp (JBL MS-A5001) to run my single "12" SSA GCON subwoofer that I am still waiting for. I'm reading the manual and I come to the FAQ parts. One of the question asks this:
My factory installed head unit doesn't include a remote turn on wire. What should I do?
MS-series amplifiers include signal-sensing turn-on. They never require a remote turn-on connection. The amplifier will sense the presence of an audio signal on its inputs, and it will turn on automatically. A few minutes after the
signal stops or after the vehicle’s radio is turned off, the amplifier will turn itself off automatically. During the delay, the amplifier draws very little current so that it won’t drain the vehicle’s battery.
I thought that was pretty cool! Can't wait ti get it hooked up!
