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My post in this thread #157 has a link to the explanation on another forum. And it should break down into different service numbers if you follow the procedures. AF should be almost everything.
I see the slight confusion in the other forum thread.
The best way to see what items are needed is get into the service reset mode (google "service reset mode amg") and the menu should show a list of service numbers. Literally a scrollable "Service 1, Service 3 etc" Each number corresponds to an item you need to accomplish. Once done, you can reset the service.
reviving this thread. @Alexfor8 There appears to be an update on the portion related to the removal of the coil packs on the passenger side for a 2018 GTR that note relieving the pressure on the fuel system (opening it up?) making the process of replacing spark plugs a lot more complicated. Has anyone attempted a spark plug replacement on a 2018 or newer GTR without the need to open up the fuel lines?
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
Yes you need to open or loosen fuel lines as part of the job. I promise loosening the fuel lines is by far one if the easiest parts of doing the job. Getting the breather lines out of the way is the challenge!
Thankfully Acta gave further info than what WIS offered to get them out.
Does anyone have the part number for the o ring / gasket on the differential fill plug? Apparently the gasket is the only part requiring change on this fill plug - on all others you are supposed to change the plug and gasket. Strange.
Does anyone have the part number for the o ring / gasket on the differential fill plug? Apparently the gasket is the only part requiring change on this fill plug - on all others you are supposed to change the plug and gasket. Strange.
Replace 2a with new plug and gasket, tighten to 25 Nm
Add DCT hydraulic fluid using adapter and add about 1 liter more than oil removed.
Start engine and shift thru all gears several times at idle
Allow transmission temperature to raise to 60C 140F (pyrometer)
Detach adapter and allow excess oil to drain.
Replace hydraulic oil fill plug (2e) and tighten to 25 Nm
————
Check for leaks
Replace all underbody panels in proper order
1. It is near impossible to get the transmission temperature up to 140 F without driving it for a while.
2. Keep the bolts and nuts for each section of the under trays with each under tray, take lots of pics during disassembly.
3. It is a messy job (it was for me!), have plenty of rags and a drip tray under the operation.
4. Make sure the car is level on your lift as the first thing you do.
5. My Motive Brake flushing tool had a hose diameter that fit exactly and tightly in the DCT fill hole, I will measure and report back. This made the hydraulic fluid job a lot easier.
6. Pumping out the oil from the motor oil tank before removing the tank plug makes the oil change job a lot easier.
7. Recommended order is Transmission lubricating fluid first, then DCT, then oil change - this is the best way to manage temperatures.
5. My Motive Brake flushing tool had a hose diameter that fit exactly and tightly in the DCT fill hole, I will measure and report back. This made the hydraulic fluid job a lot easier.
6. Pumping out the oil from the motor oil tank before removing the tank plug makes the oil change job a lot easier.
I’ll start by saying I HAVE NOT done this full service just yet but it’s on my radar so my insight is just in researching the process… Thanks for your insight and the others previous.
5. Great to know. I have used my Motive set-up multiple times since buying that could be quite useful info! Great small investment for those who do your own maintenance. Initially for me it was the best way to properly bleed a drag car with master cylinder under the floor.
6. Although easier/cleaner I believe this will leave a fair amount of oil in the cooler circuit. The rush of oil draining out pulls the oil out of the lines/cooler via the vacuum the rush of oil creates. This was the same as our drag car too oddly enough… one of the guys here had better details on the amounts. Possibly earlier in this thread, downside is you will have a bit of old oil mixed in with your new and likely overfill if you didn’t measure what came out and match it.
I’ll start by saying I HAVE NOT done this full service just yet but it’s on my radar so my insight is just in researching the process… Thanks for your insight and the others previous.
5. Great to know. I have used my Motive set-up multiple times since buying that could be quite useful info! Great small investment for those who do your own maintenance. Initially for me it was the best way to properly bleed a drag car with master cylinder under the floor.
6. Although easier/cleaner I believe this will leave a fair amount of oil in the cooler circuit. The rush of oil draining out pulls the oil out of the lines/cooler via the vacuum the rush of oil creates. This was the same as our drag car too oddly enough… one of the guys here had better details on the amounts. Possibly earlier in this thread, downside is you will have a bit of old oil mixed in with your new and likely overfill if you didn’t measure what came out and match it.
On #6, I did the oil change with the pump method (Pump, drain tank, drain sump, drain filter, remove filter) and I capture a total of 6.5 liters of used oil. I believe the total amount of oil in the system is 9 liters. Doing the oil change the MB (Messy Benz) way I understand anecdotally you will pull a little under 7 liters. You will always have 2 liters that you are unable to access. Given the tradeoffs with simplicity and cleanliness, and the fact that I do oil changes more frequently than advised as a preemptive measure, the difference in up to half a liter is worth the tradeoff to me. To some it may not be.
Motor Oil Change (8 quarts of 5w40 Liqui Moly plus OEM oil filter, plus drain plug)
Warm up the engine
Idle engine in mode C for 30 sec
Put car on lift
Pump oil from dipstick tube (5 to 5.5 liters)
Unscrew drain stop (15b) on tank (collect and measure, less than 100 ml)
Unscrew and drain (15b) on sump, (collect and measure) - remove filler cap.(less than 1 liter)
Remove drain from Oil filter housing and collect oil (300-400ml)
Remove and Replace oil filter element
Replace oil filter and seal ring, tighten to 25Nm
Replace oil drain plug and gasket (000908014009) and tighten to 30Nm
Refill with measured amount of oil or 6.5 liters.
Run engine until warm, run engine for 30 seconds at a constant speed around 2K rpm.
Switch engine off and measure oil at dipstick within 2 minutes, with a wait time of 3 seconds.
Adjust oil as needed, check for leaks, button everything up.
I do not bother taking out the tank's drain stop (15b) with the above method as there is just a minuscule amount of oil that comes out. It's not like you are washing all the engine parts for a rebuild. There is always old oil left in any engine, transmission or differential when doing a drain and fill. Less than 1/10 of a liter is not worth the bother for me.
Keeping this thread on top. Not sure why @administrator would not make this sticky - It has a as much or better info than some on the stickies on this sub-forum
I think there are two items that need correcting.
1. Raise the car first before warming it up. So you can drain the car withing 3 minutes.
2. I don't see the need to pump the oil out. Why not drain it like the maual shows?
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