Sticking exhaust valve?

Old Sep 4, 2021 | 10:06 PM
  #1  
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Sticking exhaust valve?

2016 GTS, 2k mi so far - I always start the car in C and drive it until warmed up. Once warmed up I’ll change over to S+ and every so often the exhaust valve does not open and the exhaust button on the center console does not light up. Changing back to C and then back to S+ while the car is still running does nothing. Pushing the exhaust button does nothing.

If I stop, turn the car off, then on again and all works normally.

Like I said this does not happen all the time, maybe once out of every 10 times I drive it. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what did you do to resolve? If not, I’m open to suggestions on what to check. The car had 256mi on it when I purchased it this past April so it was sitting in someone’s collection ~5yrs and rarely driven.

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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 01:06 PM
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Hey just saw this post as I searched for exhaust valve as my right one is sticking and sounds like a rice burner when getting off the throttle and my dealer said it needs whole new exhaust system which I find crazy as I know this muffler has valves that I believe are servicable I just havent had the chance to look at it yet.

Did you every figure out what your issue was?

Thanks
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BBS63
Hey just saw this post as I searched for exhaust valve as my right one is sticking and sounds like a rice burner when getting off the throttle and my dealer said it needs whole new exhaust system which I find crazy as I know this muffler has valves that I believe are servicable I just havent had the chance to look at it yet.

Did you every figure out what your issue was?

Thanks
Hi,

You get poor. I looked for a replacement and quickly found this. Maybe a solution:


Flap weld in


Think thats be the right one.

76mm Inside diameter(Maybe 70mm?) and build for "Küster" aktuator. (You keep your original actuator)
Direction of rotation, still needs to be checked. (Endoskop?)

Looks very high quality to me. Even has ceramic bearings. Made in Germany. Sometimes that's really good. :-)

Removing the rear exhaust system is no great science. Nothing complicated.
Cut both old one out and weld the new in.

or every muffler shop should be able to do that.



Best regards

Stenzel

Last edited by Stenzel-Germany; Nov 15, 2021 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 07:15 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Stenzel-Germany
Hi,

You get poor. I looked for a replacement and quickly found this. Maybe a solution:


Flap weld in


Think thats be the right one.

76mm Inside diameter(Maybe 70mm?) and build for "Küster" aktuator. (You keep your original actuator)
Direction of rotation, still needs to be checked. (Endoskop?)

Looks very high quality to me. Even has ceramic bearings. Made in Germany. Sometimes that's really good. :-)

Removing the rear exhaust system is no great science. Nothing complicated.
Cut both old one out and weld the new in.

or every muffler shop should be able to do that.



Best regards

Stenzel

I was hoping you would chime in with your knowledge of these cars. I appreciate it. Once I stop being lazy and take her to my shop where i have a lift I will be able to see exactly whats going on. But thanks for the link on the motor. At first I thought it might be the EVM I had but then I said it cant be as it is only one of the valves that are "flapping" best way i can describe it.
Again thank you for your contribution I admire your knowledge and appreciate all the help you give on this forum.

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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 01:46 PM
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did this work ?
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dllhg
did this work ?
As for myself I was able to get the dealer to replace the complete muffler system under warranty. Took some finnagling but they did it. That solved my problem,
I dont know why my valve(s) failed, but like all parts they are all going to eventually. I did have a CETE EVM installed and I suspected that might of caused it but cant be certain.
I havent been using the EVM since the install of the new muffler assembly. But I did go the DP route and finally got the exhaust music where I wanted it.
When I was looking for just the Valve motors online, it said they were not available but last week I was looking at the MB Parts online and it shows them as now available.
But... and I forgot to mention that my tech said the noise I was hearing was not just the valves but internally inside the muffler. Which was odd to me but since they covered it under warranty I didn't follow up since it was fixed.
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BBS63
As for myself I was able to get the dealer to replace the complete muffler system under warranty. Took some finnagling but they did it. That solved my problem,
I dont know why my valve(s) failed, but like all parts they are all going to eventually. I did have a CETE EVM installed and I suspected that might of caused it but cant be certain.
I havent been using the EVM since the install of the new muffler assembly. But I did go the DP route and finally got the exhaust music where I wanted it.
When I was looking for just the Valve motors online, it said they were not available but last week I was looking at the MB Parts online and it shows them as now available.
But... and I forgot to mention that my tech said the noise I was hearing was not just the valves but internally inside the muffler. Which was odd to me but since they covered it under warranty I didn't follow up since it was fixed.
interesting. I just installed the Cete myself. was using at the track. failed at the track …… Do you happen to have the part numbers for those ?

thanks.
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 04:20 PM
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I had my CETE EVM installed for only a few days before my valve stuck ……
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 04:27 PM
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BBS63

thank you very much. That’s all that’s needed ?
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dllhg
thank you very much. That’s all that’s needed ?
Have you had your car diagnosed? Reason I ask is sometimes they get out of alignment and need to be reset so to speak the actual motors I mean. This is what was attempted by my AMG tech at the dealer before he said its actually my muffler baffles or valve were bad but needed the whole thing replaced. Now, this same tech has been working on all my AMG vehicles for almost 3 years now so I dont think he was BS'ing me. But I still decided to remove my whole system and take a look inside the flap and the muffler.
I was able to get one motor at the time which was the one I believed was the one causing the god awful sound, and what was weird was that at idle with exhaust open it was fine even with revs. But as soon as I would get in and drive it I would hear it. So I made the dealer escalate this and persuaded the GM to "help". Which they did.

If your issue is with stuck or not responding exhaust valves, yes then all you have to do is replace the one that is bad or both.
Its best to remove the whole muffler system and install these. It can be done with muffler in place but your hands will get mangled and if you have decent sized hands its best to remove the system, its not that hard to do.
When you are installing be extra sure the clock springs are aligned correctly into the actual flap inside the muffler.
Good luck
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 10:18 AM
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I had one stuck valve. The fix was to switch to Sport+ or Race mode, which somehow reset it. Using the exhaust button did not solve it, because the ECU failed to try to actuate the stuck valve. But somehow using the mode dial did it.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BBS63
Have you had your car diagnosed? Reason I ask is sometimes they get out of alignment and need to be reset so to speak the actual motors I mean. This is what was attempted by my AMG tech at the dealer before he said its actually my muffler baffles or valve were bad but needed the whole thing replaced. Now, this same tech has been working on all my AMG vehicles for almost 3 years now so I dont think he was BS'ing me. But I still decided to remove my whole system and take a look inside the flap and the muffler.
I was able to get one motor at the time which was the one I believed was the one causing the god awful sound, and what was weird was that at idle with exhaust open it was fine even with revs. But as soon as I would get in and drive it I would hear it. So I made the dealer escalate this and persuaded the GM to "help". Which they did.

If your issue is with stuck or not responding exhaust valves, yes then all you have to do is replace the one that is bad or both.
Its best to remove the whole muffler system and install these. It can be done with muffler in place but your hands will get mangled and if you have decent sized hands its best to remove the system, its not that hard to do.
When you are installing be extra sure the clock springs are aligned correctly into the actual flap inside the muffler.
Good luck
local tech had it for two days couldn’t figure it out. dealer has it now. my question to you is when valve gets stuck do you have zero boost or boost drop off at 4k rpm ? I have zero boost everywhere.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 01:33 PM
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Cant answer that as mine were never stuck nor did I get a fault code.
I have heard that they do go into Limp mode if there is an issue. There were some issues with the clamps on the turbos themselves that these engines had issues with, I had a no boost issue awhile back after some spirited driving, not track stuff tho. It basically was missing and hissing like crazy. All dealer said was that the clamps were leaking after smoke test so they replaced them. A lot of things can cause a low or no boost. I am sure the dealer will figure it out.

I know it sucks not knowing, but good luck.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 04:20 PM
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Exhaust valve is not related to turbo boost. If both are not working it’s another issue and not due to the exhaust valve. EV alone will only affect sound and a bit of power output.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Surge
Exhaust valve is not related to turbo boost. If both are not working it’s another issue and not due to the exhaust valve. EV alone will only affect sound and a bit of power output.

makes sense. still waiting for dealer to give me diagnosis. not looking good for Laguna Seca last day for nine months on monday 😞
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Surge
EV alone will only affect sound and a bit of power output.
Unfortunately, issues with Exhaust Valve (Stuck Valve, etc) can indeed lead to Limp Mode and significant reduction in power.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MBNRG
Unfortunately, issues with Exhaust Valve (Stuck Valve, etc) can indeed lead to Limp Mode and significant reduction in power.
........and boost
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Stenzel-Germany
........and boost

Complete loss of boost or just after 4k rpm ?

Dealer has had car three days and still doesn’t have a clue why i’m not getting any boost at all. At any rpm. ☹️
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by dllhg
Complete loss of boost or just after 4k rpm ?

Dealer has had car three days and still doesn’t have a clue why i’m not getting any boost at all. At any rpm. ☹️
Hi dllhg,

Did the dealer check the purge valve and purge lines? I posted this in the other thread you have going on loss of boost. I gave info in post #4. It has p/ns, etc.

Best,

Acta
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Acta_Non_Verba
Hi dllhg,

Did the dealer check the purge valve and purge lines? I posted this in the other thread you have going on loss of boost. I gave info in post #4. It has p/ns, etc.

Best,

Acta
I don’t know. they aren’t communicating well with me 🤯. i’ll make sure they know about it. thank you. did that cause complete loss of boost over all rpm ?
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dllhg
I don’t know. they aren’t communicating well with me 🤯. i’ll make sure they know about it. thank you. did that cause complete loss of boost over all rpm ?
yes complete loss. If you go back into post # 4 in your other thread read those threads. In one of the posts the p/ns are listed for the valve and lines.

hope this helps.

Acta
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