aganzon

Greg,

I also have a black MBZ like Barry's. Please email me a quote including the PC 7424,

Thanks,
Albert

Greg@DI

I'm not sure if I completely understand the problem but it sounds like there is a brown stain on the seat. This can be hard if not impossible to remove. I would personally try the Leatherique Prestine Clean on the surface with the heated seats on or using a blow dryer on the area. This will help allow the cleaner/conditioner to breakdown and penetrate futher into the leather as the leather's pores open more. After the product has been buffed in, heated I would remove it with a damp microfiber towel (buff off). This is probably the best method I know of that is safe for all seats.

Let me know if I misunderstood your problem, I'd be happy to reassess the problem again.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Sending you an e-mail now. Thanks for posting.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Griffin337

I have had the same problem with every mercedes i have ever owned.. The only ways i could solve teh problem completely..

1. Warrenty new seat cover.

2. When the car is new i always kept something behind me to keep it from happening. WHAT A PAIN..

3. always get charcoal leather..

MMM430

Thanks guys. I'll give the cleaner / heated leather idea a shot and let you know if I'm successful.

Appreciate the advise.

velvet fog

I went to wash my wife's car (a BMW so it doesn't really matter ) and after getting the supplies out, bucket filled with warm water etc I realized I was out of car wash soap (I normally use Pinnacle car "shampoo") so I used some liquid laundry soap, about a tablespoon in 5 gallons.

Good choice? Should this situation happen again, is there any good substitute for car wash soap?

Greg@DI

I have not used this method so I can't say for sure. What brand did you use and did you notice any differences in your experience? For the time being I'd have to advise against it just because I don't know the possible consequences. Auto shampoo is separated from regular soap because it has conditioners it in. Some generic soaps like Dawn have powerful stripping agents in them. With repeated use of these soaps they can dry out vinyl and plastic trim and even the clear coat, this may be the same for the product you used. We highly recommend using an auto shampoo that has conditioners in it that are much safer for vehicles. I would use dish detergent before I use the laundry stuff again but auto shampoo should be around locally if you need it or we have some very nice auto shampoos with conditioners at Detailed Image. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Frankster

I've been reading on the net that some people are applying carnuba wax over an application of sealant. What, if any, are the benefits to doing this? I've yet to try it though there are those recommending it.

Greg@DI

I recommend layering a carnauba wax over a sealant for the ideal combination of protection and shine. I apply the sealant first because in general sealants offer stronger and longer lasting protection. Sealants will adhere very tightly to the clear coat and give you a nice shine. This shine is reflective and very slick but I like a deep and glossy shine. Carnauba waxes offer a different appearance that looks much deeper in my experiences. Carnauba waxes will offer some additional protection but these waxes don't last that long. Carnauba waxes are known to give you the "wet" or "hard candy" look for a show car appearance. This step is the perfect finishing touch to a detail for most vehicles. If I had a show car that was strictly garage kept and driven infrequently I would consider just using a carnauba wax. However I prefer the strong all around protection of the sealant underneath the carnauba wax. In summary the carnauba wax applied on top of a sealant offers you more protection and a deeper shine.

Let me know if you'd like a recommendation on what sealant or wax will work best for your particular vehicle. Thanks for posting!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Frankster

Thanks Greg. It' just the info I was looking for. What would you recommend as the best cobination, in your opinion, of sealant and carnuba wax? Thanks.

Greg@DI

Oh man there are so many great combinations. My answer might vary on a variety of conditions but one of the main ones is the color paint you have. I'll list some of my favorite combinations for that really deep shine and strong protection.

For darker colored vehicles:
Menzerna FMJ - Souveran Paste Wax - my aboslute favorite combination, but pricey

Menzerna FMJ - Poorboy's World Natty's Blue - outstanding results

Klasse AIO - Souveran or Natty's Blue


For lighter colored vehicles I really like

Menzerna FMJ - P21S Carnauba Wax P21S Carnauba Wax is awesome on light colors

Klasse AIO - P21S Caranuba Wax

Poorboy's World EX-P - P21S Carnauba Wax

As you can see I'm a really big fan of the Menzerna FMJ. In my opinion its the most well balanced product on the market. So easy to apply and remove, long lasting protection, great shine and I use less than 1 ounce per coat. The Klasse AIO and Poorboy's EX are both awesome too. Klasse AIO has the rare balance of a polish that can help clean and shine the paint while simultaneously seal and protect the surface. The polishing action does a great job of separating surface contamination caught in the ridges of the clear coat. Then it seals the paint with a great coat of sealant that gives you long lasting protection. This makes the Klasse All In One the perfect step for a deep shine and protection. For the best value in high end detailing products I recommend you consider the Poorboy’s World EX and EX-P. They are both great products that serve a similar purpose. The EX is a sealant with carnauba wax that will guard your clear coat and leave a highly reflective shine. The sealant provides the majority of the enduring protection while the Carnauba Wax gives you that deep shine. The EX-P is similar but is a pure sealant that offers a little longer lasting protection.

The carnauba waxes are all great. Souveran is my favorite because the shine is so deep especially on a red or black colored vehicle. The natty's blue is also great on dark colors and a great value. For lighter colors P21S Carnauba Wax works extremely well.

Let me know if you'd like a specefic recommendation based on your particular vehicle. Hope this helped and if you have any questions don't hesistate to ask.

Greg @ Detailed Image

barrykaye

For what it's worth, I've been using the Merzerna FMJ and the Natty's Blue on a Black C280. The FMJ is extremely easy to remove. The Natty's Blue takes a little work to remove but it leaves no streaks and the final result is spectacular.

Frankster

Thanks again for the great info Greg. Since I have both black and silver vehicles, I'm gonna go with your recommendations and see how each turn out. Looking forward to a long day of detailing fun.

barrykaye

Frank, here's a few words of advice:

-Use the Porter Cable buffer and the Lake Country pads.
-Follow Greg's instructions to the letter, including the recommended buffer
speed for each step.
-Give yourself a lot of time to do this the first time.
-The more you do it, the better your technique will get and the less time it
will take. My first time took 10 hours from start to finish. The second time
took 5 hours.
-If you take your time, the results will be spectacular. See my post earlier in
this thread for some before and after pics.

https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=46

I also read the info Greg has posted on his website describing each product and how they all work. I found that understanding how each product works helped me refine my technique.

Have fun and good luck!

iraryz

Hi, I ordered my new c 230, 2007 (black /black). I am supposed to pick it up next week. I have been reading posts about how to polish, how to detail, etc. because this is my third mercedes and my second c 230 black and I will not like to make the same mistakes I did with my old black c230 kompressor, 1999. I love the way black cars look when you wax them; even though they are a pain in the neck to keep them clean and shiny.

However, I am still confused. I am planning to wash it and wax it as soon as I get it. I already ordered my PC 7424 as you recommend but, do I have to worry about swirls and scratches in my new baby? Do I have to polish or just wax it?

Anyways, what products do you recommend I should use with my new baby?

Usually, I wax my car every month and wash it 2 times per week. It is ok. to dry a car with chamois?


Thanks in advance.

barrykaye

You might want to read the other posts in this thread. There's some great that's already been posted.

Basically, use a chamois and you are almost guaranteed to put scratches in your paint. I switched from that to the large waffle weave microfiber drying towels which work great. Detailed Image is a sponsor of this forum. Their drying towels are excellent. Their standard size ultra plush microfiber towels are great for removing polishes/sealers/wax. You might also want to try these tricks:

-Use the two bucket wash method - one bucket for clean water and one for dirty water. Wash from the top down rinsing your microfiber sponge/wash mitt in the dirty bucket before using more clean water.
-When you are done washing, take the sprayer head off your water hose and run a stream of water over the car. This will create a sheeting effect that will minimize the amount of water you need to dry off with a towel.

Detailed Image's website also has a full explanation of how the polishing/sealing/waxing process works and why it doesn't create more swirl marks.

Greg@DI

Congrats on picking up a fantastic new car! Taking care of a vehicle right from the begining is a great way to save yourself from future problems. The black paint looks amazing when its detailed right!

Unfortunately many new vehicles don't come in as good of condition as you would hope. It sounds like yours is getting delivered so hopefully the dealership will not be able to possibly harm the finish. I would recommend that you ask the dealership not to do a dealer prep, unless you know they do high quality work. This will help minimize the chance the detailers at the dealership will harm the vehicle. Even still there might be some light swirls so you might need to polish anyway. I guess you'll just have to wait and see whether you think it needs polish or not.

As for what products you need it depends on how far you wanna take your detailing. Barry listed some good tips and information and there is plenty more on www.detailedimage.com. Washing is an important step that removes surface contamination and allows you to safely proceed to the next step. Removing this contamination safely and effective is the goal of each wash, so you can have the maximum shine later. Use a nice auto shampoo that can remove contamination quick and easy. Next we recommend using two wash mitts to clean the vehicle. One mitt is for wheels, very low panels and any other heavily contaminated areas. The other mitt should be kept as clean as possible and used on the upper panels and glass. Use two buckets also during this time. One bucket is filled with shampoo and water while the other is just water. While washing the vehicle dunk your mitt in the water bucket to help get rid of contaminates, before you put it back in the soap and water mix and continue washing. Upon completion dry your paint with a paint safe microfiber waffle weave drying towel. One of these towels is good and two is perfect for a thorough drying. The waffle weave pockets hold large amounts of water to make drying nice and simple. Not all chamois are bad, but there are some with edges that area rough or use improper materials.

Even brand new vehicles often come heavily contaminated with road grime, air pollution and rail dust (approx 75% of vehicles in the US are on a train at some point). Clay Bar is the ideal prep stage before using polishes, glazes, sealants and waxes. Using a clay bar will remove both micro and macro contamination so the surface is nice and clean. Clay bar removes contaminates stuck in micro-ridges of the clear coat or tightly bonded to the clear coat. In order to achieve maximum shine, gloss and depth, the surface must be as clean as possible for light to pass thru the clear coat and give maximum reflection. Spray clay lube (quick detailer) on the surface and gently glide the clay bar back and forth and it will pick up contaminates that you can even see with the naked eye.

If you think the vehicle needs to be polished I would recommend the Menzerna Final Polish II. This polish will remove oxidation, brighten the clear coat, remove imperfections and ensure the clear coat is really smooth.

A sealant is probably the most important step overall. A sealant will help protect the vehicle against nature's elements. Sealants are generally more durable then waxes while also adding a great shine. The Menzerna FMJ is great and a favorite of many professional and weekend detailers. Other great options are the Klasse AIO and Poorboy's World EX or EX-P. If you want an extra deep shine you can add a nice carnauba wax to your routine after the sealant. For darker vehicles the Poorboy’s World Natty’s Blue Carnauba Wax is perfect. It adds a deep and glossy finish that gives you a show car shine.

For the interior I would condition the leather right away and keep a regular maintenance of the leather. I prefer to use the Leatherique Prestine Clean to clean and condition the leather. It deep cleans the leather and conditions the leather leaving no gloss or residue behind, just nice soft leather. For the vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces both inside and outside the vehicle you may want to protect them with the 303 Aerospace Protectant. This formula leaves a nice matte finish with no thick oily residue. It protects against build-ups and UV damage with SPF 40 for those surfaces. So you get a great shine and protection from one product. I use this product on my dashboard, arm rests, rubber seals, tires, engine bay, exterior trim, doors and more. For the carpets you may want to protect them too with the 303 Fabric Guard. I spray down new mats to help seal the fibers, so a staining substance can’t easily penetrate them. This will help keep the carpets looking great for longer.

Assuming you get the clay and polish here is my routine. If you don't can still follow this outline just exclude the clay bar and polish parts.

Step 1 - Wash/Dry
Step 2 - Clay Bar
Step 3 - Menzerna Final Polish II (white polishing pad)
Step 4 - Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (black finishing pad)
Step 5 - Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax

Dec 06 - Steps 1 - 5
Jan 07 - Steps 1,5
Feb 07 - Steps 1,5
Mar 07 - Steps 1,4,5
April 07 - Steps 1,5
May 07 - Steps 1,5
June 07 - Steps 1 - 5
July 07 - Steps 1,5
Aug 07 - Steps 1,5
Sept 07 - Steps 1,4,5
Oct 07 - Steps 1,5
Nov 07 - Steps 1,5
Dec 07 - Steps 1 - 5

This routine would keep the vehicle well protected and looking great regularly. Let me know if you want this adjusted.

This entire process I listed above is what I typically do for customers who bring me there new vehicle and my own vehicle. Let me know if you have any questions. Don't forget we offer 10% off to MBWorld members who checkout using the code 10offMBW.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Greg@DI

Sorry this is a repost, I'm not sure how/why this message was on the leather post previously.

I just wanted to remind everyone that there is 11 days left on Detailed Image’s contest and January site special (both end Jan 31, 2007). Detailed Image has the Poorboy’s World Wheel Sealant on sale for $9.99 (regularly $15.99) for the month of January only. This wheel sealant gives your wheels long lasting protection that helps prevent the build up of brake dust and makes future cleanings much easier. Also any purchase over $50 gets a free ultra plush microfiber towel.

Detailed Image also has a FREE contest for anyone to enter with no purchase necessary. On January 31st, 2007 Detailed Image will give away 3x five packs of ultra plush microfiber towels. These are some of the finest microfiber towels in the detailing industry that are completely clear coat safe. Sign up here today to be entered for this free give-away.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Kar don

What products and pads did you use to buff out your C280? Also did you use a porter cable or rotary? Looks pretty good!

Greg@DI

I hope you don't mind but I was going to outline these products that Barry and I selected. Barry did an awesome job and did this work all by himself, I just recommended products and outlined the proper techniques. I think he was a little hesitant at first (especially about the PC7424) but after we talked a bit, I think he felt confident and was obviously able to do exceptional work. The PC 7424 is safe for just about anyone to use and anyone can get professional like results.

Here is the process Barry and I developed:
Step 1 - Wash/Dry (Microfiber Wash Mitt and Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel)
Step 2 - Clear Kote Clay Bar Kit
Step 3 - Menzerna Intensive Polish
Step 4 - Menzerna Final Polish II
Step 5 - Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
Step 6 - Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
Step 7 - Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax (applied by hand)

Advanced Porter Cable 7424 Kit- Includes Porter Cable 7424, Velcro Backing Plate, 1 Orange Cutting Pad (Intensive Polish), 2 White Polishing pads (Final Polish II, Finishing Touch Glaze), Black Finishing Pad (FMJ), 3x Snappy Clean pad Cleaners

Please let me know if you'd like help putting together a package to help you detail your vehicle. We specialize in selecting detailing packages that best meet owners detailing goals. Hopefully Barry can comment on his experience with these products and the process. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to post or PM me. I look forward to hearing from you!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Kar don

Thanks, I just wanted to know what products were used. Reason I asked is because I have yet to detail a vehicle with ceramiclear. I have a ton of experience with the porter cable buffer and rotary and have done well over 100 Mercedes-Benz vehicles with it in my spare time.

What I am new to and interested in purchasing from you guys is a hose-less car wash... something I can do in the winter without creating swirls or marring the paint. I don't 2 bucket, I usually rinse my mitt with the hose after every swipe because I find it quicker and more effective. Thanks.

barrykaye

Let me add that I have since repeated the process.

While the first time turned out great, I was a little conservative in my technique (slow buffer speed and light pressure). After a couple of weeks (and rains) went by, I saw areas that I missed. About 6 weeks after the initial application, I went back and did it again. I was a little more aggressive in that I used a higher buffer speed and a little more pressure. The initial results were as good or better than the first time and have proven to be much more consistent over the all the surfaces of the car. Whatever I missed the first time, I got the second time and now the paint is as good or better than the day I picked it up.

If only I could only find the time to work on the chips created by all the dump truck road debris here in lovely So. Fla.

MoeMistry

Great wash technique. That's what I teach my clients. I'm not a fan of the "washless" stuff though. As for buffing the ceramiclear, I'm not sure if the PC will generate enough heat for the paint. You'd want to use the Menzerna 106FF and probably a Makita or DeWalt. But those are best left to a professional.

Greg@DI

Barry - I'm thrilled to hear that you got even better results on your next detail. Thats the best part about the Porter Cable 7424 in my opinion, its safe and easy to use for anyone yet you can always get better at using it.

Kar don - For a waterless wash I've had great sucess with the Poorboy's World Spray and Wipe. Its designed to encapsulate contaminates in the solution so they can not be easily grinded in to the clear coat. I certainly don't think that makes it fool proof but its one of the safer quick detailers you can use. MoeMistry also had a good recommnedation, which is trying the Menzerna PO106FF. In short this polish uses the finest sized abrasive particle possibly ever used in detailing which still has strong cutting power but finishes down smoother than almost any other polish. It can be used with the PC or a rotarty, just depends on what results you're looking for and your expertise. To read more about my review of this product check out a new post I'm going to make. This topic has been talked about a lot so I'd like to provide some more insight on the topic.

Greg @ Detailed Image

pianoman

Hey guys.
I just purchased a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT with a convertible top and have noticed an overspray of some sort on the glass. It is on the side windows, the edges of the front window, and on the convertible glass window. I also see a little bit on the black trim around the front window. Normal cleaning has not fazed it, and you really can't see it most of the time. Mainly in the morning and evening due to the angle of the sun. Am I right to assume that this might be overspray from a convertible top conditioner of some sort? If it is, I have no idea how to remove it and I am having no luck finding any info about it on the web.
Can you guys help me out? (This is my 1st try at a convertible)
Many thanks for any help you can give.
David

Greg@DI

David,

Thanks for posting and congrats on picking up a new vehicle. You might be right with your guess of over spray from a convertible top protectant. These products are generally not harmful if you wipe them off right away but with sun exposure and time it can leave stains. I think I might need a little more information to give you a better recommendation and to be sure of the problem. Are these marks on the exterior windows only? What do the marks look like? Can you take a picture?

Let me know if you need any help caring for the convertible top or any other part of the vehicle. I'd be happy to help you pick out products if needed.

Greg @ Detailed Image