Ok, so i picked it up yesterday and it was filthy after being trailored (closed transport) from Chicago. I figure, no big deal and take it to a car wash (the type with the sprayer not the drive through). The dust runs off the car like a muddy river and then the horror begins. This car has MAJOR cosmetic problems. To start with, swirl marks..EVERYWHERE (may be excentuated by the car being black). Then, wheel curb damage. Then, a spot on the back of the trunk where the seller couldnt get the plate to come off so he forcably ripped it off, causing scratches down to the bare metal. I've read all the stickies completely through, and have a few questions.
1) I have lots of swirl marks, some on the hood are quite noticable. Which brand of swirl remover would you recommend i use? (i've heard that 3M has a good one, and that Meguiars has two good ones). Links to these would be a godsend. (P.S. im going to buy a Porter Cable polisher so what pads should i use?)
2) Will these scratches on the back of the trunk (down to the metal) rust? I assume that they will. How long will it take for this to form? Is there anything i can do to prevent rusting from happening until i can get it repainted?
3) What glass cleaner do you guys use/have the best results with. Windex isnt cutting it for me.
4) Long shot...does anyone know of a good wheel repair shop in the Winston-Salem,NC or Charlotte,NC area? The clear coating is coming off of the wheels in some places and there is alot of curb rash to deal with, which is sad because they are really nice AMG wheels.
5) This may be outside the realm of the detailing forum, but it is cosmetic...The trim around the driver's side windows doesnt match up where the driver's side door meets the body. How can i adjust it?

Wow, lots of questions. I will post pics later, but i have to sell my Audi so im going to work on that some and ill check back periodically throughout the day. Thanks for the help, it is badly needed.

 

~One man’s opinion / observations~

Q1: I have lots of swirl marks; some on the hood are quite noticeable. Which brand of swirl remover would you recommend I use?
A1: 3M Perfect-It 39009 or Megs #83 DACP or #9 Swirl Remover
(I’ve heard that 3M have a good one, and that Meguiars has two good ones). Links to these would be a godsend.
Meguires or 3M dot com
Q2: (P.S. I'm going to buy a Porter Cable polisher so what pads should I'm use?)
A2: Lake County Mfg White polish foam
Q3: Will these scratches on the back of the trunk (down to the metal) rust?
A3: Yes. I assume that they will. Correct
Q4: How long will it take for this to form?
A4: No idea, it would depend upon how much moisture/water is introduced to the surface
Q5: Is there anything I’m can do to prevent rusting from happening until I’m can get it repainted?
A5: Apply a polymer sealant, but have the surface repaired ASAP
Q6: What glass cleaner do you guys use/have the best results with. Windex isn’t cutting it for me.
A6: Stoners Invisible Glass (if the glass surface is very dirty/plus road grime) use Stoners and #0000 synthetic steel wool
Q7: Long shot...does anyone know of a good wheel repair shop in the Winston-Salem, NC or Charlotte, NC area?
A: 7 No, but someone from that area might help
Q8: The clear coating is coming off of the wheels in some places and there is a lot of curb rash to deal with, which is sad because they are really nice AMG wheels.
A8: Need to repair, I’ll PM a DIY methodology if you’re interested
Q9: This may be outside the realm of the detailing forum, but it is cosmetic...The trim around the driver's side windows doesn’t match up where the driver's side door meets the body. How can I adjust it?
A9: I don’t know but perhaps an auto upholstery shop could help

~Hope this helps~

Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

 

Thanks for the info TOGWT. Im going to check into the stoners invisible glass. I would love it if you could PM me the DIY wheel repair.

 

~One man’s opinion / observations~

My e-mail keeps giving error messages so I’ll post it.

Repairing Scratched Wheels:
This procedure is for slight damage only; a specialist wheel repair shop (www.wheelcollision.com) should repair serious damage.
·Remove the damaged wheel from vehicle.
·Clean the damaged area with Prepsol, if the scratch is ‘deep’ fill it with Bondo) and then sand the scratched or damaged area with Norton 3X Sandpaper (p-graded aluminium oxide grain,) 60, 80 or 100 grit sand paper, sand wet or dry with a wooden sanding block.
·Sand the wheels until you've removed the scratches or `kerbing' marks.
·Continue the sanding process using finer and finer grades of paper, 220 or 320 grit and finally with 500-grit paper.
·For small hard to reach places use a Dremel tool and a suitable sanding bitRepainting

Wheel Surface:
·Prepare the surface by removing all sandpaper residues by washing and then wiping with a clean damp towel.
·Use 3m Painters Masking Tape between the tyre and the wheel rim
·Spray the wheels with Dupont Prep Sol and allow to air dry.
·Apply a thin coat of zinc (Groit's 20225) to stabilize the surface.
·Paint the wheels with two thin coats of silver alloy paint (Griot's Garage P/N 20225) to ensure complete coverage, and allow to air-dry (1-2 hours between coats and leave to cure overnight.
Finish with a clear lacquer paint (Griot's Garage P/N 11570) allow to air-dry and then cure for 4-6 hours

~Hope this helps~

Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

 

Thanks, i'll look into this more and maybe try it sometime next summer when i have time and am feeling particularly adventurous.

 

TOGWT, are the steps you gave the way that shops repair curb rashed wheels when you take them in? i've heard anywhere from $75 - $175 for professional repair. so, DIY is attractive if it would do the same job. thanks for the detailed instructions by the way.

 

hmm that technique for the wheels sounds good. but im not much into the silver paint.. what does it look like?? but the rest sounds good. but something you shouldn't probably do is take the wheel off and set it on its back side down so that the spray doesn't drip down and you'll be left with the smoothest finish. oh and what do you mean by cure???

back on topic. you should probably use Meguiars #83 and using a 8006 pad. ( the other pad he said is probably the same ) apply it and don't let it haze or dry up ( with your porter cable preferably) then when its starting ti dry down a little apply more or wipe it off with a clean microfiber towel. if there are still swirls then keep applying. do not apply more than 3-4 times per section. and don't push down on the porter cable, the weight of that alone is enough. if you are still left with minor swirls (less than before ) then pick up Meguiars #80 speed glaze. that is slight;u abrasive and will remove tiny swirls while putting in Meguiars secret oils back into the paint. you'll be left with a nice glossy finish after. use the same technique with the #83 but with a different clean polishing pad. after if you want to protect and give it more of a shine i suggest Meguiars NXT paste wax. apply it all throughout, no need to do small sections. wait between 15-25 minutes ( the hotter it is, the less time needed for it to sit ) and then remove with a clean microfiber towel. if it is difficult to remove at first then let it sit on the paint longer. for the best results , if you want to apply wax again, you should wait 24 hours. if the car is left outside after the first wax and before doing the second, then you should clean it with any quick detailer.. for the trim.. can i see a pic? it may be two different types of trim or one is just faded. and for glass cleaner, i heard that NXT glass cleaner works wonders.

 

As far as I know most wheel repair shops use a similar method, of course products may vary though. The Groit's paint was chosen because of all the wheels I 'repaired' on BMW, Merc, Porsche etc it matches the existing paint colour.

You may find $150 -175 is about ave dependant upon area / shop
JonM

 

I would use a polish like Menzerna IP or Poorboys 2.5 followed up by Menzerna FPII or Poorboys 1 for the scratches. I would then put a coat of Zaino Z5 to fill any swirls the PC and polish could not remove and finish up with a coat of Z2 Pro and then Z8 gloss enhancer to give the black a deep/wet look that can not be beat/duplicated by any carnuba or sealant on the market.

 

Haha, i remember this old thread. Things have come a long way since then but the wheels are still pretty banged up, im probably just going to replace them because i dont think the paint method will work because the part that's flaking off and is chewed up is the polished metal part, which seems like it would be a pain to fix. Hey TOGWT, you mentioned earlier a Griot's garage polish that you said would get the scratches out of the clearcoat on interior wood trim, which polish were you talking abou?

 

Groit's Garage Fine Hand Polish P/N 11165 approx $13
JonM