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Is this worth the effort? I think this motor can benefit from a good flush. In my case, it's been serviced by MB dealer with full 15K km engine oil interval changes. No visible oil sludge via the 2 opening (oil filter and oil fill cap) hence my hesitation if this is worth the extra $90 it would cost me.
my plan:
1. Get 5L of Mobil 1 0W40 229.5 oil.
2. Get 2 bottles of Liqui Moli engine flush. (Part#7712)
3. Drain oil. Install new cheap MAN oil filter and 5 L of 229.5 oil. Drive the car lightly for about an hour hoping my DPF won't get plugged up.
4. Add 1L of Liqui Moly engine flush. Idle for 10min.
5. Drain oil.
6. Add 8.5L of 229.51 or 52 spec oil and MB oil filter.
the end.
thoughts?
Better yet, catch your oil sample and send it to Blackstone or other lab.
Just becouse you don't have sludge, doesn't mean your engine has no other problems.
If the oil has been changed regularly, there's probably no heavy sludge. Just add a cleaner before the next oil change, as per it's instructions. Most say to add, then run the engine for a little bit, then do the oil change. No reason to do a ton of extra work with it.
I beg the differ, In my 2010 ml350 I bad sludge at very early in my miles anx inwas following mercedes oil intervals. That stopped real quick. Used seafoam to clean the sludge out and it worked good for me. Started doing 5000 miles oil intervals and adding seafom 200 miles before the oil change. If anyone has a better product I'm all ears.
I beg the differ, In my 2010 ml350 I bad sludge at very early in my miles anx inwas following mercedes oil intervals. That stopped real quick. Used seafoam to clean the sludge out and it worked good for me. Started doing 5000 miles oil intervals and adding seafom 200 miles before the oil change. If anyone has a better product I'm all ears.
Last edited by ooklaa65; Mar 19, 2018 at 10:08 PM.
Reason: Double post
I beg the differ, In my 2010 ml350 I bad sludge at very early in my miles anx inwas following mercedes oil intervals. That stopped real quick. Used seafoam to clean the sludge out and it worked good for me. Started doing 5000 miles oil intervals and adding seafom 200 miles before the oil change. If anyone has a better product I'm all ears.
I do agree that the MB intervals are too long. 5000 or 7500mi would be much better. People see 10k, then think 'oh, it's a diesel, it's gonna last forever, i don't have to worry about that', and go over. Then you have sludge. But many that I've opened up at reasonable mileage with reasonable maintenance history don't look bad at all. One missed oil change can change all of that though.
I keep the MB FSS intervals, what average 13k miles and never had sludge problem.
Not in ML320, that for 3 years was run on dino oils while towing trailers, not in 290k miles 603 engine, that most of its life run on dino as well and I just took apart 624 engine to find no signs of sludge at all after 180k miles. If not for inhaling water puddle the engine seems to be in perfect condition.
Kind of mystery why SOME of modern diesels develop sludge, but looks like the dealer-services engines were filled up with wrong oils.
Valid points. I'll run a sample for analysis and will forgo short 229.5 flush except for a bottle of Liqui Moly as I already have one. This time I'll let the oil drain over night.
Kajtek, how did you manage to hydro lock your W211 OM642 motor? Air intakes are so high!
I didn't notice any unusual residue in the used oil after using Liqui Moly engine flush. I did let the oil drain over 24 hours and managed to get about 400mL extra over conventional quick drain! I also got quite a bit out of the oil filter cavity. I think at least 50mL!
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; Mar 25, 2018 at 08:50 PM.
Add engine flush ans let idle for 20mins on the pil right before the change. It is sufficient. One can is enough. Using amsoil 5w40 esp and onw can of ceratec with a mann filter. Change every 10k km /6k miles.
I use 1-1/2 bottles of Liqui Moly at every oil change. Get the engine up to temps, then add the Liqui Moly. Idle for 10-15 minutes, dump, refill with a gallon of $11 cheapa$$ oil, idle for 10 minutes, then do a proper drain/refill with Amsoil Competiton Series and a fresh spin-on oil filter.
The only reason I do the cheapy oil is 'cause it burns my a$$ to see my fresh oil black within 20 seconds. The truth is, that I doubt it changes anything, for the better or the worst.
When I first bought my 08 e320 bluetec I had no idea how it was maintained in the past so when I bought it home I dumped two bottles of liqui moly engine flush and drained it after 20 minutes of run time at idle and refilled with rotella T6 5W40 and two small 355ml bottles of comp cams engine break in additive to protect the timing chains,etc since I read that engine oils only have 900ppm of zinc and 1400-1800ppm is needed to prevent chain stretch and excess wear.
I did the same thing this year but switched to valvoline premium blue diesel 5w40 synthetic with the comp cams additive and wix brand oil filter.I also have a magnetic drain plug in place that I bought from eBay.So far so good.The engine performs well with no dpf issues.It only has 113,000KM.This picture was taken two months ago.
When Rotella T6 is excelent oil and I used it in older diesels - it not rated for DPF equipment and reading how several Bluetecs seized due to wrong oils, I would love to see lab test on Rotella. Is it possible?
Same with Valvoline if possible?
Well I realize the rotella doesn’t meet the mb spec but I used it anyway since I knew shell rotella always had a good reputation in heavy duty diesel fleet applications so I figured it would do okay in the om642.Last week is my first time using the valvoline premium blue in the om642 engine so we’ll see how it goes.
I’d like to do the dpf delete if it’s possible.I’ll have to look into buying a kit if it’s readily available.I sometimes run liqui moly dpf cleaner in the fuel but it probably doesn’t remove or clean ash.
It really doesn't matter much synthetic or not.
Few years back I drove my 1999 diesel Ford Truck a lot, so took my time to test different oils.
Rotella T4 (dino) come better at lab results than Mobil 1.
The oil Ford dealer put in those engine was garbage.
Than again, modern engines have different requirements.
Reading from several owners who's engines seized when oil turned into pudding makes you wonder. My OM642 is pre-DEF and I don't see problem running it with 13k intervals. And original owner had it serviced at dealer, so she likely had FSS intervals as well.
Making me wonder if newer engines have different combustion chemistry as it takes a lot to solidify oil.
It is critical that you drain ALL oil with bluetec. Different oils have different detergents that when mixed, cancel its properties! So if you dont, you' may get sludge. It doesn't take much for the reaction to flash oil under combustion process kajtek mentioned.
There was an article I read years back about problems you will run into if you constantly change oil with different brand. If I recall correctly, on your third oil change, your oil chemistry will completely change if your mechanic doesn't drain it all during change intervals.
I should add that dealers frequently overfill by as much as 1L. That is most likely because they didnt drain all the oil and they pump set proper amount from the drum. In my experience, draining my E320 OM642 overnight yields about 0.5L of old oil. That includes removing stagnant oil in oil filter cavity.
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; Apr 4, 2019 at 04:20 PM.
When I was testing different oils in Ford as I mention above, the test did not show any issues with constant brand change and the 7,3l Ford engine has design that holds about 2l of trap oil, so changes are at about 80% level.
For those who want to read it- here are final test. Bare in mind each oil change is done with different brand oil and I extended Ford's 5.5k intervals.
The last oil was Rotella T6, the one before Mobil1
I have the car on ramps at the front for half the day and for the night the ramps go to the back.
Perhaps this issues with mixing different brands of oils is no longer applicable but I've been trying to stick with one brand of oil since mid 90s.
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; Apr 4, 2019 at 07:29 PM.
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