Whazz IQ?

Injector Quantity .
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Malone and JT are the main ones I could find when looking for ML350, I think there was also mega-speed, renntech, and euro charged.
i'll be getting a malone stage 1 just because the shop that does it is a lot closer to me than the shops that do the other tunes.
Overall online from my research they were all fairly positively reviewed/reliable, but i guess it depends on what you are looking for and how much of an expert you are. Clearly todds87ss seems to know his stuff and the tune just wasn't up to par.
i'll just be happy to have the dpf/egr/def gone, but while im getting that work done i figured i might as well get a tune and get a bit more umph out of the car.

you will get that, plus the comfort of MUCH LESS CEL and limp issues. Other post tune issues include you will have to unplug your DEF controller (may be difficult to locate) and it is best to leave EGR unplugged after tune. The tune may also prevent swirl flap issues (by defeating them open and preventing codes). I had no issues related to this part of the tune.
Cheers.

much less CEL will be nice. i bought the car CPO and the CPO warranty doesn't cover any of the emissions stuff (except for 2 components that have the 8 yr warranty). I've had the car just under a year and i already replaced the 2 Nox sensors and now i have a CEL for adblue heater malfunction. So i say screw the CPO warranty, i couldve already had the tune + deletes for the cost of the Nox sensors
no point fixing the adblue heater, that part is expensive, im just going for the tune+deletes

i figured the whole malone tune + deletes took care of everything. here is what they list for the deletes "Remove DPF, Adblue, EGR, and Intake Swirl Flap" so am i right to assume the points you mentioned above they technically do as part of the tune and delete and i should be good to go?

thanks for your input

Yes, EXCEPT that you will have to find and unplug your DEF (SCR) controller, and your EGR valve.
I only mentioned the swirl flap as most people want that deleted after they replace oil cooler O-rings.

hmmm, ok. i did see that on the malone site. it says
"If you are deleting SCR (Adblue), then you must electrically unplug the controller. In ML SUVs it is usually located in the trunk, click here to see a picture. In GL SUVs it is usually located in the front passenger fender area. "
If you are deleting DPF & EGR, then we recommend unplugging the EGR valve for a smoother cold start/idle."

The click here link brings me to https://malonetuning.com/assets/uplo...ccount_id2.jpg

I definitely recognize that spot, it's under the spare tire, so should be easy to find and unplug. What about the EGR valve unplug. I see the part break down here https://www.mboemparts.com/v-2014-me...em--egr-system and EGR i believe is # 10, but will be hard for me to find without a full car blow up showing its location. My assumption is somewhere under the hood, but i haven't seen/recognized that part or any cables that plug in and what to unplug. Although helpful for parts, the https://www.mboemparts.com and https://www.mbpartsworld.com/ sites aren't that great since you can't get an overall view to specifically locate in/on the car where the part is. Know of any better sites or guides online?

Again i would've thought the mechanic does all of this as part of the Malone tune since that is what they recommend, but i guess maybe not :/

What happens/what problems does it cause if those are not unplugged? Or what benefit do you see from unplugging them?

After the work is done i'll have to double check those spots.

I am not much of programmer, but contacted my inclined friend about unplugging deleted sensors.
When it might not be really necessary, the "tune" is bypassing the program to fool main computer that sensor is not needed, or something in this way. When you leave the sensor plug, initial check might still find it and then computer is getting conflicting data.
Those are pretty expensive sensors and I did not want to destroy them, so I wrapped the plugs into food sealing wrap

food sealing wrap? like https://www.glad.com/food-storage/pl...rap/clingwrap/ ?

i assume the SCR controller unplug would be fine like that since it is in the trunk under the spare tire, but i would think there is no way you can wrap the EGR plug with that. It's got to get hot around the EGR area and that wrap would melt.

Unless you are referring to a different food seal wrap.

Good thinking wrapping the connectors after unplugging them, if it's in the engine bay i guess it possibly could get some splash up, especilaly if you remove the belly pan in the summer months like peter mentioned.

But what to wrap it with, it would have to be heat resistance and also fairly water proof/air tight to prvent damage to the connector.

EGR is made mostly from plastic, while its electric socket is on cold side.

On top of the left rear valve cover area. It is aluminum, with a black plastic section where the plug goes.It is about 3 inches in diameter. You can Google OM642 EGR for a pic and go from there. As far as wrapping the sensor, When I pulled the cover off of my engine, I noted how clean everything was...not much dirt gets in there. I suppose an ounce of prevention.
Not sure why, though. On the Duramax, if you do not block it, even when turned off, it still passes exhaust gas at higher boost pressures. That is not the reason for unplugging, just providing info that there is always something...

I am at 500 miles and no CELs. This is a new record for me. Definitely enjoying no limp mode!

found some videos, thanks!

my understanding is that the software deletes will just prevent the valve from opening and recirculating the gases. Besides unplugging the valve, would there be any benefit to taking out the valve and cleaning it? I'm wondering if there is a lot of build up in it maybe it wont seal properly when closed and may still allow some gas to pass through.

Unlikely failure mechanism. Usually they block with soot, preventing the passage of more. Mine was reasonably clean at 125K miles, though. The OM642 EGR seems like a fairly robust design.
If you really want to do it, I say have at it. There is a lot of info out there however related to difficulty in removing the valve. It gets stuck in place, and clearances are tight. The best way I have heard of to remove for cleaning it to loosen the 2 bolts holding it in place (I think you would also want to remove the turbo heat shield). Leave the 2 bolts threaded in a few turns. Then start the car and rev it to boost. The added pressure has been known to force the EGR valve out, while still captured by the bolts.
I did not know about this method when I was taking mine apart, so I had to remove the intake to get it out.

thanks for the info, but looking at the pic i posted in the other thread, it definately looks like a PITA to try and remove or do anything with it. I'll probably just unplug it and figure out a way to wrap it and protect the plug. who knows maybe i'll end up using glad wrap, i just figured that stuff was too dainty to use under the hood :/

maybe ill wrap it with glad wrap and then wrap the glad wrap with electrical tape to be safe

Sorry late to thread but just got my 2013 GL350 malone tuned. I was having issues with throttle body fluctuating. and shop suggested unplugging throttle body itself. is it safe and has someone experienced this ?

Just bought a 2008 ML350. Deleted the throttle valve, egr-dpf and boosted 35hp. Tuned by Jerrys Diesel outta Kamloops. I’ll report when I get some mileage on it.

J-Dawg

Hows the tune working out for you?

i think good so far. Down to 31mpg on the highway and around 25mpg in town

i think good so far. Down to 31mpg on the highway and around 25mpg in town