Hello and how are you all,Happy new year. I am looking at the Liquimoly proline intake system purge. How many of you have used it , and how often? As I stated in 1 of my earlier posts, my intake runners were carboned up pretty heavily when I had the oil cooler changed. (around 60k miles) Did a little reading on this product and im thinking it may be a good idea to use it, or perhaps at least try it.
It says to run the engine around 2000 rpm and spray it in intermittently, and not to go over 3000rpm. So, do I spray it into the turbo air inlet? I am guessing its okay to pull the filter housing away from the turbo inlet while its running? Will I get an error code and how would I clear that?
Thanks for your help, E350cruiser
When you pull the turbo intake, you will disconnect MAF and CEL will follow. MAF codes usually clear themselves once it is fixed and you do few driving cycles. On W210 took me 10 seconds to cycle starter 7 times and no CEL. Or you can speed it up with scanner.
When I cleaned up my newest manifold prior to porting it (nothing fancy, gasket matched, 80 grit flap wheels up into intake runners) it was absolutely shocking how difficult it was to truly remove the carbon. Next major service swapping out manifolds again and walnut shell blasting the intake ports and valves the same way you have to do the BMW 335i motors constantly. More power is more gooder right? Still pondering converting to water to air charge cooling...and that silencer pipe where compressed air exits turbocharger housing is getting significantly modified lol
I have 3000 psi commercial pressure washer that I used on W124 intake and it was efficient as far as I could see where it is going.
Did not want to use it on OM642 flaps as it would destroy them, but hen ultrasonic cleaning becomes very popular lately and with good effects.
I already bought ultrasonic generator and it is still on shelf waiting for tube build. Suppose excelent on carbon cleaning, less on greasy build ups, but then it is cheap to use and does not involve much of labour.
But those method require intake removal, when "miracle in a bottle" sure is easy way to start.
Hey Micah, give us your expert opinion on what this gentleman recommends to clean the EGR. Really curious...
Mercedes has now started to recommend the EGR valve be cleaned every 40000 miles. Burnt oil clogs it. We found a way to really clean the EGR & the rest of the emission system. We took the Liqui Moly kit for cleaning the DPF, & modified it. We remove the sensor in the EGR pipe. We made an adapter that threads into the EGR pipe & connect it to the Liqui Moly gun in their DPF cleaning tool. We put BG 245 diesel fuel system cleaner into the gun & spray the BG 245 cleaner straight into the EGR pipe as the engine is running. The BG 245 really cuts through the crud in the EGR system & it cleans the DPF at the same time. The whole system is getting a serious cleaning. This is simple, once you make up all the adapters to make it work. (The adapters don’t have part numbers. Old mechanics have drawers full of oddball fitting & they can find the ones that connect to the EGR & the Liquid Moly flushing tool.)
thank you for your responses. is there any perticular scan tool I would need ? I have an OBD 2 scanner that my cousin got for me off the Snap On truck that comes to his work. Where I work at ,we are getting a brand new industrial ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning the parts we deal with. 2 of the new guys are former auto mechanics, and they were "salivating " looking at the new cleaner. I can bet as soon as its connected and in service I'll be seeing lots of car pats getting cleaned on the side!
Peter, can you please post updates on your cleaner you fabbed up? My e350 has 82k on it and I am anticipating having to clean my DPF between 120K and 130k miles. On that note, is there "proactive" cleaning to the DPF that I can do to keep it from getting clogged? I generally drive at 70-72 mph on the turnpike to everyday. I am also being passed, on both sides by cars going faster. I am hoping that consistent driving at that speed will help keep the DPF from getting clogged.
Get a ScanGauge. I think by now they should have Xgauge for 350 Bluetec.
I drive my 250 with it for over a month, what come with quite surprising observations.
First it took about 600 miles of city/mixed driving for the soot to reach 100%. In the mean time computer would activate regeneration for short burst when you do heavy acceleration.
Than regeneration had no symptoms. No higher rpm, no different sounds that owners of older engines did report and my 250 BT was still doing ECO stops during regeneration.
I reached home still having 16% of soot and now see that DPF is getting clog much faster than when I had full regeneration.
So my conclusion for next time is to turn ECO off during regeneration and make extra loop if that will take soot to 0. Full regeneration takes less than 10 miles of driving.
My faulty DPF did not have clogs in it, but some of the ceramic honeycombs moved, so I think my errors were the result of too low differential pressure, not what I assumed too high.
For comparison I monitor DPF on my Ford truck/camper and on 400 miles highway trip the soot % dropped while regeneration never happen. So in certain condition DPF might be self-cleaning without regeneration.
Personally ultrasonic cleaners are about as good as I’ve found for such cleaning. I keep an 11 liter one at home and have numerous smaller ones at work. They don’t work as well on soft materials like gaskets or o-rings, but on hard surfaces like an alloy or metal EGR part they work pretty good with a decent cleaning solution. Dawn dish soap is pretty good on oily or carboned up parts, I also use the Hornady gun/reloading solvents often. Ultrasonic will do a 90% effective job usually, the rest is hand work and stronger solvent like lacquer thinner, which is especially awesome on petroleum based deposits.
I never use anything other than water mixed with a light dose of ultrasonic cleaning solvent in my tanks. I’ve tried straight acetone for instance...worked fine but since tank is heated in 30 minutes you can go through a whole tank of acetone and vapors are severe. It is water soluble however for extra tough buildups.
..................Peter, can you please post updates on your cleaner you fabbed up? My e350 has 82k on it and I am anticipating having to clean my DPF between 120K and 130k miles............
Not me, that is an excerpt from an article I read.
I just did the LiquiMoly Intake cleaner job tonight. I took off the EGR inlet tube to see if was plugged and it was nice and clear. I reinstalled the EGR inlet pipe and then removed a plastic air box from the intake pipe to spray the LiquoMoly into. If you remove the 3 bolts, the air box just pops off leaving about a 1 inch access hole just in front of the butterfly valve of the throttle body. I inserted the spray hose from the LiquiMoly can, then used electricians tape to tape over the hole and prevent a vacuum leak. Seemed to work perfectly, didn't have any codes thrown, and you're spraying the LiquiMoly almost directly into the intake manifolds so you know it's getting in there.
just wanted to pass on what seems to be a good spot to access the intake tract for the LiquiMoly treatment.
The finger points ot EGR silencing box. Is that where you spray the cleaner?
I have a picture with the box removed. Long way from the hole to intakes. Hard to tell if that matters. EGR pipes
Yes, that's the port I used for spraying into the intakes. I've seen people just spray into the turbo; this is obviously much closer to the intakes than that. And the LiquiMoly can comes with roughly a 1-foot long spray nozzle, so you can insert it quite a ways into the inlet tract.
You need to block this port when applying the cleaner. I cut out a piece of rubber out of a busted bicycle tire and kept that air tight. Make sure you do this outside and have some kind of respirator on.
Yes, when you take off the air box, there is a port left on the plastic intake tubes. Use that port, and I just inserted the spray nozzle and then covered the port with electrical tape.
And yes, definitely do this procedure outside in the fresh air!!
This thread reminds me of working on boat motors about 30 years ago. I think the liquid stuff the shop used was called quicksilver or something like that. Almost every boat from triple 502 powered Fountains to PWC that came through go the same treatment as part of service, the guys called it “decarbonizing” which meant usually at least on the smaller stuff putting boat into tank for water dyno test, running WFO while spraying this stuff directly into the intake(s) I guess the stuff was mainly water, it definitely didn’t burn and truly did steam clean pretty impressive, since I was the skeptic they made me do a before and after top end on a PWC “so I could see who it REALLY worked”...I’ll give those asshats this, it was a good lesson and they were not BS ing. That said in future tank dyno run I just sprayed in straight water and got similar results.
In no no way am I suggesting this for your modern motors, just thought I’d share an oddball memory. Doing the big cigarette boats was way more fun, too big by far to go into tank dyno, so we would take them out on Lake Travis on calm days and spray them under serious load...those bigger boats were 140 gallon an hour machines and quarter million bucks back then, doubt they have gone up in value. Not a bad gig for a poor *** kid starting off in the motorcycle business.
So doesn't most of the gunk inside our diesel intakes come from the the oil we dump into the turbo from the pcv valve
which then goes into and through the inter-cooler pipes then connects to the manifold via EGR valve, then the exhaust
that routes from EGR connection pipe to valve and intake cooks all the lovely oil we blow into it. So would not a catch can or venting to atmosphere
help or correct this problem of dirty and cooked intakes.
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