Tdott

Not sure the point of this back and forth other than to confuse new people who are trying to figure out what they need to do.

If not in the original Class Action, Shelby is no longer useful.

Moving forward, https://bluetecupdate.mbusa.com/home is the process to follow.

kajtek1

Thanks for coming to your senses.

Tdott

Any updates on yours?
I asked for a status a few weeks ago and they said I was sent an email in April, Lies!
But they sent me the info and I had to fill out some type of release, I filled that out so hopefully a payment is on the way soon.

300SDLguy

I received my check during the first week of May.

Jfxogara

A little over three months from submission to approval. The biggest challenge was finding a dealer in the Washington DC area that could do the work. Euro Motorcars in particular has atrocious customer service.

3/31 application submitted
4/20 Request for additional documentation
7/10 Application approved
?? Check received

kajtek1

Bluetec claims expired 7 months ago

Jfxogara

Fact check: Incorrect. The filing date is expired but claims are still being processed.

> The Claim Filing Deadline for Current Owners/Lessees was October 1, 2022.

Tdott

Looks like I missed the release email, which I swear I never got, hopefully now that is done, i'll receive payment soon.


https://bluetecupdate.mbusa.com/home the next deadline is August 1, 2023

DesignerinDFW

‘I received my release email a few days ago. It states that my check will arrive in 4-8 weeks. Dealing directly with MB for the incentive has been a pain. They take forever to answer and it seems like nothing is happening. If the dealer hadn’t taken their sweet time installing my AEM, I would have made the deadline to deal with Shelby and the law firm. Almost a year later, here we are. At least the check is in the mail. So yeah.

‘oh yes, I’d search your spam folder because they won’t mail your check until you go and sign the release.

egorijjj_mwmods

- SCR (AdBlue / DEF) | EGR | Intake Flaps | DPF delete module
- AdBlue limits counter reset module
via simple OBD plug

More: obdtune.com

Rehan Aslam

Is glow plug replacement covered under the Diesel Emission recall extended warranty? A service advisor recently suggested if the emission recall has been completed on my SUV, Glow Plug replacement may be covered. The recall was completed in 2020 on my 2014 GL350 Bluetec and I have been experiencing cold start issues. Has anyone had the glow plugs replaced under the emission warranty? Technically, bad glow plugs will cause an EPA violation due to unburnt diesel blowing out through the exhaust. Appreciate any advice!

Quint22

Did you get a check engine light or a message/warning? Thought these guys do that if the glow plugs are burnt up or not working. Anyhow wont cause more exhaust to blowout the tailpipe unless your deleted, the dpf and scr are gonna take care of that however if its causing more unburnt fuel it will clog said components faster and cause more regens which use more fuel. EPA dont care about fuel mileage.

Diabolis

Modern diesel engines do not even use the glow plugs for starting unless the ambient temperature falls down below a certain value and even then they're on for maybe 2 seconds. Even on very cold days, on the cylinder(s) that do(es) not have a working glow plug you might end up with twenty more revolutions of the engine before enough heat and pressure is built up until it is firing properly, so the argument that the car won't run properly without them or that it will somehow pollute more is simply not true. Large diesel engines don't have glow plugs, and all diesel engines will fire up even without them provided that you crank them long enough. Diesel only requires heat and pressure to spontaneously combust, which you create during the compression stroke (the temperature of the air/fuel mixture goes up as a result of the pressure going up, not because of the glow plugs).

The W164 ML throws an error on the dash if a glow plug is out, so I can't imagine that the W166 doesn't. I don't know if they are covered under the extended warranty as a result of the AEM, but I highly doubt it as they do absolutely nothing in terms of tailpipe emissions.

L-L

Hey MB Bluetec owners,

I got my the AEM completed on my 2015 GL350 X166 back in May 2021 and since then the car is having back to back issues. At least every 4-6 months the car is at the dealership for repairs, most covered by the Diesel Emission recall extended warranty.
It has about 125k miles, and after the last dealer visit (Sept '23) for new EGR and temp sensor, the engine had a low knocking sound and smelled exhaust fumes in the cabin. Last evening I noticed a laud knocking sound coming from the engine (passenger) and the exhaust fumes smell was much worse. I did some research and there are very high chances that the rod bearings are damaged. Did any of you have similar issues after the Diesel Emission recall? Any suggestions on what is causing this laud knocking sound? Any ideas if and how the Diesel Emission recall extended warranty can apply to this case (lower engine issues)? Note that all services/oil changes were done by MB.
Cheers
LL

Rehan Aslam

Diabolis - Thanks for the refresher on the Glow Plug function on a GL350 and Diesel Engines in General. If Glow plug is not the issue what could be causing a cold start issue? As I mentioned, the cold start long cranking is a recent occurrence and did not happen in earlier winters. The fuel filter has beed replaced and injectors are clean and operating fine. The engine performance overall (acceleration, Idling, Fuel Economy) is fine. Appreciate sharing your expertise.

wae

When my car was delivered to me post-AEM by the first dealer I foolishly tried, they claimed that I needed to buy a new turbocharger from them because mine had some damaged impeller blades. I declined that with a plan to just replace the cartridge on my own and they returned it with the check engine light still on and a bunch of stern words about how my turbo wasn't covered by the extended warranty anymore. I stewed on that for a few months before finally taking it to a different dealer to handle the check engine light. That dealer diagnosed the M55 swirl motor as being bad so they gave me a loaner and got to work. While working on that, they determined that the wiring harness going to one of the flap position sensors was bad so they replaced that. I got a text from the service advisor that the tech noticed my turbo was damaged as he was putting it back together and that it would be a little more time before I got my car back because they had to order a new one. I told him what the other dealer told me about the turbo being "pre-damaged" and not covered. He pretty much just laughed at me and told me it was definitely covered. The check engine light came back on as soon as I got it back home, so I took it back up there. They put another new swirl motor on and also replaced the swirl motor wiring harness. Then they kept the car for about a month because they couldn't get the DPF regen to complete. I finally got it back and the check engine light came back on the day after I got it home. After a little while I also started getting messages on the cluster telling me that I needed to check my DEF level, even though it was quite full. Took it back in and they diagnosed it as a faulty DEF control module and then as they were trying to replace that they told me that the DEF tank had been damaged in a previous repair so they were replacing the whole thing. Since then things have been holding steady, fingers crossed. Between the cash payout, the AEM itself, and the warranty work, if you valued the work done at retail prices, MBUSA has put somewhere in the neighborhood of $20-$25k worth of work and cash into this 11 year old vehicle, and I've got more miles to go on my warranty yet. The AEM was done at about 126k miles and I'm at 148k now.

You are right at the mileage where mine had a tasty breakfast of #2 rod bearing, so I wouldn't be tremendously surprised. If that's the cause of your issues, the bottom end isn't covered by the AEM warranty and there's really nothing they did as part of the AEM that caused it. My personal theory is that the oil spec makes some sacrifices in lubricity to protect the DPF, the EGR fouls the oil, the engine is almost designed to leak oil, rings get fouled and stuck and it burns oil, and when you go 10k miles between oil changes you don't correct or mitigate any of those problems. Also, somehow with all the computer wizardry and whatnot they built into these over-engineered beasts, they seem to have neglected to install any way to monitor oil pressure.

Unless you've managed to ventilate the block, though, I'm not sure how a bottom-end issue like a crunched bearing would result in exhaust smell.

A couple things to check: Pull the oil filter out, spread the pleats a bit, and see if there are any chunks or sparkley bits in there. If there are metal chunks in the filter, then you're cooked. If the filter is clean, the prognosis is better - even if it is a bearing letting loose, there's a chance that you've saved your crankshaft. If the filter looks good, then you could have a failing injector, which is covered. I would look for fuel or black crud around the injectors. All of that said, however, I've heard plenty of exhaust leaks that sound like bottom end problems. For a while there you could get super cheap F150s that people were selling with "bad motors" and "rod knock" because the exhaust manifold studs fail (because Triton) and the noise is almost exactly the same. Is it at all possible that when they replaced the EGR valve, there was something that didn't get sealed up quite right? Do you have a bunch of soot in the engine bay anywhere? If the oil filter is clean, I would return to the dealer and have them take a look at it. Also, I'd shift to a 5k OCI if it comes back to you in a fixed condition.

Diabolis

Just to make sure we're on the same page here... what exactly is your definition of "long" cranking? It is a known fact that after the AEM installation it takes a LITTLE longer until the engine will fire if you start cranking right away (which you couldn't do before) as the fuel system takes some time to prime. If you put the key in position 2 (or press the start button twice) without pressing on the brake pedal and wait for a couple of seconds (during which time I can clearly hear my fuel pump running) and THEN pres the brake pedal and turn key / press start button again to start the engine - does it fire up right away?

91stealthes

What was the reason for the exhaust in the cabin? I've had exhaust in cabin since the AEM was completed and it has progressively gotten worse, so much to the point where my wife will no longer drive it as it makes her sick. Dealer first indicated there was no smell. Now they are saying they can smell it when I pull into the bay. They haven't been in it driving recently though. I am awaiting an appointment for them to look at it again. Thoughts?