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1. Rail pressure is 7 bar at crank. Should be > 120
it actually gets to 11 bar while cranking)
2. Synchronization status. Not Synchronized
( this changes to synchronized while cranking)
No real codes. I have the bat wing MAFs disconnected and the drivers side air box not connected but the car should start.
at first i thought i have an air pocket in the rails but I cranked it maybe 20 times so far so this should clear it.
- no visible rail fuel leaks
Electric fuel pump seems to be working. cant be the high pressure pump. It worked ok few days ago.
Any ideas?
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; 09-18-2021 at 12:33 PM.
Just checked the voltage supply for the glow plugs. With the volt meter, at the glow plug connector I'm only getting 2V.
but apparently thats normal. I'm getting the short glow plug light on clustet so that's probably ok.
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; 09-18-2021 at 08:42 PM.
This all looks like a leaking injector. Will do a leak off test while cranking for 10sec and see if any of the 6 injectors 1/4" return tube fill past the 13mm mark.
I had the same challenge starting after reinstalling fuel rails. It was air in the system. I disconnected one rail supply line and cranked until fuel shot out. Reconnected and it started immediately.
I think that's the issue. I have a lot of air discharge in the fuel tank during ignition in position 2. I got good spray of fuel from the fuel filter.
I also removed return likes off the injectors and lots of air came out during ignition 2 cycle.
I also thought to try to get air out out of the high pressure fuel pump but with ign position 2, nothing is coming but I assume that the pump must be turning. Won't try that as thats too dangerous due to high pressure.
What is a bit alarming is that during 10 sec crank I had no fuel showing in my injector collector short lines but im guessing thats because of air.*(correction, injectors won't fire if proper fuel pressure is reached, correct?
Tomorrow I'll try to crank it with one rail injector line connected to a bottle and see if im getting fuel.
when the fuel was disconnected, i turned the engine few times when cleaning the intake ports of the head. Could that cause damage to high pressure pump?
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; 09-19-2021 at 09:43 PM.
It won't develop much pressure until the air is purged from the lines. In theory, if the lines are air free the pump doesn't need to move any fuel to make full pressure, whereas if they are full of air the pump must move enough fuel to half fill the lines just to get to 2 bar.
Thanks. Just turned the motor and tried to get the air out of the HPP. The pump ejects small pulses of fuel. In 10 seconds it pumps only maybe 10cc of fuel. Is that normal?
The pump has safety clutch, what is gear torqued on tapered shaft. I wonder if that might got loose in the process.
This is OM651 pump, but the same shaft design https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...hments/169642/
Noticed that my tachometer does not move while cranking.
Also, bleeding the rail point at injector point, cranking generates slow amount of fuel but as soon as I stop cranking, fuel appears to be sucked back into the rail.
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; 09-20-2021 at 10:58 AM.
Thanks Krzysiek but I did not remove the hp pump.the car was running just before the oil cooler job.
I'm thinking of replacing the hp pump but looks like some call it to be removed with engine at TDC and pump to be installed with proper sprocket configuration but there is no way of doing it as the pumps sprocket is uniform. Here is a pic:
Originally Posted by kajtek1
The pump has safety clutch, what is gear torqued on tapered shaft. I wonder if that might got loose in the process.
This is OM651 pump, but the same shaft design https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...hments/169642/
HP fuel pump doesn't have any timing.
What's your mileage?
The picture I posted come from my Sprinter, where pump failed at 260k miles.
I took it apart and when failure was due to broken spring, the pump did show wear, so they don't last as long as the engines.
Hydraulics used to be my major and pump testing would be plugging the outlet and install pressure gauge on it,
But that also should have safety valve and when we are talking thousands of psi, things get pretty dangerous.
when we are talking thousands of psi, things get pretty dangerous.
Yeah, that. Be very cautious! I used to hear about people injecting Diesel fuel under their skin, and that was when pressures were a mere 2000 psi. Now it's more like 2000 bar (30,000 psi.)
The car has 230K km. I just tried unplugging the Fuel Quantity Control Valve (FCA) off the HPP and tried cranking and the fuel rail pressure does not go up. Apparently it should and perhaps the HP pump is really toast?
Update. I changed the HPF pump and it started.
Reasons for how this pump got damaged during the oil cooler seal change is a mystery.
many thanks for all your inputs.
You have flaps delete from what I recall?
Did not stop gunk buildup.
I have cans of Liqui Moly intake cleaner in my garage to do the cleaning, but so far my engines runs perfect, so no motivation to do difficult procedure.
For comparison, this is my engine after 180,000 miles without flap deletion
This one did not have intake flaps deleted but it does now.
I noticed that with the head intake ports building up soot with carbon and oil, injectors will clutter. This in fact can mimic an injector failure as engine gets less air and trims fuel. Symptoms are for some reason exacerbated with outdoor Temps below freezing to the point that the car may have problems starting.
Last edited by GoodByeHonda; 09-22-2021 at 05:38 PM.
Don't see the flap on the picture?
Kind of makes me wonder howcome my engine is having relatively low gunk build up.
The car was driven in Tennessee, before I took it to CA.
Than even I had records, can't be sure PO did not have it cleaned.
I have some problem with my OM642 on E320 after oil cooler change, but in my case it looks like HPF works because Xentry diag shows me ~350bar rail pressure while i try to start the engine.
09-18-2021, 12:22 PM
