2015 E550 Cabriolet - Need to replace the Keyless Go Module but cannot locate where it is placed in the automobile. I have pulled the passenger side trunk liner out of the way but I am not seeing the white box, I do see what looks like an airscarf control module, can someone please assist me with locating the Keyless Go Module? Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate any insight related to placement of this module.

 

rear cargo trunk area up above fuse box near gas filler (pass. side).
well worth attention to fix expedited battery drain while parked.

 

Cali, you mean the oil pump mod doesn't fix the Keyless Go? :o Sorry, couldn't resist.

Thanks for the location info, I would've never suspected it was back there. These cars are so weird... I don't suppose you have a pix, because the OP seems to be in there but still unable to find it? I'd love a pix too.

 

See if that helps you locate KG on your chassis...


KG controller up above rSAM


amazing opportunities for quick fix
Solderless pins as-is on the left vs. soldered on the right

Keyless is a great distributed system with one hell of flakey controller.

My car all new used to honk at me when opening my driver door after unlocking. The selling dealer kept feeding me moronic tales... stupid car drained battery in more than one way... I owned a shinny money pit
Then I researched how to untangle this engineered chaos.
The high maintenance is so overzealous, my car smelled like a clunker (oil + coolant leak) right from production time. Every system feature it's own downfall path for service calls.

You may want to set your objective to deal with CAN-B/C modules.
🤞

 

That puppy is hiding! *******s... Extra thanks for the pix or I'd likely never find it I suppose I'll pull that puppy out and solder it, one of these days.
Maybe with any luck the OP can fix his with some solder and save a ton of $.

They **** out the word. Maybe "Bass turds" will work? Yes, it works

 

For reliable keyless operations...

1-- solder KeylessGo module
2 -- solder ALL door modules

The more you fix these cars.... the better they work.


keylessG module with amazing pins

Great technology with everything necessary to take it down with poor connections 👏


The loose pins are to control modules what low oil pressure is to engines

 

I had a temporary burst of initiative and soldered the Keyless Go pins. It still doesn't work
No codes, of course, and passes all the Xentry tests, just simply won't work.

Pix of mine if it's of any use to anyone:

 

What's not working exactly?

Also, probably a stupid question, but any chance you can just swap out the board? Or is it programmed to the car like the trans conductor plate and what not? As you can tell, I have no idea if the programming for the Keyless Go is on the board itself, or if the board receives instructions from the ECU or something.

 

Putting the keyless button in does zero, nadda so I've been using the key.
No clue about coding. It"s back burner because I'm still trying to get the check eng light off so I can smog it. I soldered the pins on the keyless go hoping it might fix that issue. A looong shot for sure but it's something.
P2610 is the code that's killin me.

 

Gotcha. Wish I knew enough to help. I didn't even know there was a key option! At least I know that now. Hope you're able to get it sorted.

 

Your MY'16 chassis has multiple electrical issues including dead Keyless and a CEL... P2610

The above troubleshooting is backwards let's try to make progress the other way.


Pls provide answers to the following Q's:

A -- What are the other modules reporting besides ECU...?

B -- What have you worked on already to deal with your issues ??

C -- How long have you had this car?

D -- What maintenance was done?

E -- What are your batteries age, charge status?

F -- How often is this car driven?

G -- When does the CEL shows up ?

H -- How is your Xentry not helpful to fix this?

I -- What do you think ties all that??

J -- What are you leaning towards doing??

K-- When have you rebooted this car ?


> Your inputs precious to help identify what's wrong with your chassis.
> Figuring WHERE to SEARCH for what's wrong will help you FIND the detail that needs service.
> It's always obvious and simple after the mystery is solved.
🤞

 

A -- What are the other modules reporting besides ECU...?
Reporting? All of them report and check out good, Keyless Go included.
I get random errors, which have always been there, and all that stuff works. Autel will show more errors. All communication issues imo. And of course a code for the oil pump solenoid that someone here suggested

B -- What have you worked on already to deal with your issues ??
Xentry and Autel many times. Check fuses many times, check wires and reseat plugs on random things I find. The Keyless Go soldering. Check grounds, not all yet, but everything so far looks showroom.
Plus wire repair from a rat, which caused all kinds of problems. i checked, it has been re-chewed. I've also looked everywhere I can see for other wire damage, so far nothing.

C -- How long have you had this car?
Four years next month.

D -- What maintenance was done?
Plugs, coils, both batteries, oil/filter, air filters, tires, gas cap, turbo vacuum check valve, tranny mount and one motor mount.

E -- What are your batteries age, charge status?
6 Months. Charged ~75% if I let the car do it. When Keyless Go was working I had a big battery drain when parked, which stopped the moment Keyless Go stopped. Keyless Go stopped one day when I used Xentry. Next time I used Xentry again it worked again. Next time I used it stopped again. So I associated simply using Xentry with toggling it, but I've been unable to get it to turn on again. That's way back burner since P2610 is preventing a smog check and my tags are now expired >:|

F -- How often is this car driven?
5-6 days a week, 250-300 miles/week

G -- When does the CEL shows up ?
The first or second key On after clearing the code. The code appeared maybe 6 months ago. Intermittent at first, then a couple weeks later it was always there.

H -- How is your Xentry not helpful to fix this?
If it can't see the problem then it can't tell you. All it does is say I have the code, nothing useful. BenzNinja has looked it twice in the past month, about 2.5 hours altogether, no change. I wanted to do whatever I can before I bother him again.

I -- What do you think ties all that??
No clue, because apparently nobody knows what P2610 is, what causes it, or how to fix it. The CAN/comms glitch is random, maybe a couple times a week? P2610 is always there. Xentry may not always see it, but other things can.
The only online fix for P2610 I can find is "replace the ECU", which is not a fix. Translation; "I don't know, see if this works. If not, replace car."
I swapped it anyway, no change.

J -- What are you leaning towards doing??
Keep trying, blindly. If I fail, the only legal option is selling it as a parts car. Or I might get lucky at the smog shop if: I get all the Readiness tests to pass on one start, and turning it off during the test is not required, and P2610 is not a deal breaker. That's a lotta ifs.

K-- When have you rebooted this car ?
Many times. Last time was maybe a week ago. I've left it disconnected for days just to see if that helps, it does not. The only thing a reset ever does is screw up my window settings and mirrors.

 

Okay, got this. The list faults with descriptions would help understand exactly what modules are openly disfunctioning.... need that!

Funny thing is... I too get this fault BUT only as I reboot the car. DTC describes the ECU lost power but does not know how long.

Let see what are your other faults both active + stored.

 

Attached is the last scan, and one showing some other faults to get the big picture.
Command Head unit often gives a fault that it has no power
Multifunction Camera heater works fine but also claims no power
Rear SAM and Doors are because I removed the light bulbs
The Steering Column one is very rare, but it stuck on me around that time so maybe that caused it?

All these have been with me since I first scanned it, I believe over 3.5 years ago

The CAN Module pix below in case you wanted that. If I check/ping all the modules, which is a pita, they all respond and pass, Keyless Go too.

 

Very good coverage. I took the time to read your full report. I think this has your ECU issue captured and then some (MFK, COMAND, ..)

(The steering tilt does not belong here. It is a distinct issue I have addressed.
Dissable menu until you can deal with this later.
It should be reported by the driver seat module not SCM proper)

> Shortcut:
Your survey points to painted front footwell GND as the root cause.

I think this is primarily driver side but go ahead and clean the passenger side while you have motivation.

Both sides feed top modules including the SRS built with enough caps to remain quiet through glitching.

> The long way to the same place is to inventory the marginal GND connections used by your faulty module collection...

the MFK HEATER track is a heavy load.

We don't have evidence the issue is on the (+) side feed (SAM known bad relays).

> If footwell GND bring you no relief, you'll need to build the list of power connection shared by faulty modules.
They are on different CAN.


When working on chassis electricals.... DISCONNECT ALL POWER, every time!
For less reboot, do more work at once.

The car is normally never powered down, it is only in low power mode until you unplug power sources. - Great time to use CTEK "AGM Mode" during batt. unplugged.


Hope this helps you get Smog passed
🤞

 

Thank you for your time looking that over, and advice. I will tear up the carpet soon. Plus I've been needing an excuse to unplug those illuminated door sills. I have black tape over them now because they literally blind me.
I think P2610 is something very different than the other issues, but who knows, I'll still cross my fingers...

When I said the Keyless Go died and the batt drain went away, that was technically not true. The drain went from ~25A overnight to ~5A. Still way more than it's supposed to be, but a non-issue compared to what it was. So no powering down, or low power, just a tolerable or intolerable power. I know you like those CTEK things, but it's a hard pass for me
They Keyless Go was not the drain btw, the ECU was. Haven't checked since it dropped to 5A, but I bet it's still the ECU.

 

I don't particularly care about CTEK brand but in the MB ownership shark-tank it has helped me well. Any other brand... your pick! CTEK OE works perfectly for me (no ties whatsoever). I am sure other brands have a line-up.

You say "ECU was draining your battery and not KeyG"...
- Actually the distressed firmware of crashed modules was doing it !
- In my book it is not ECU because during engine-off the ECU is cut out.
(ECU is NOT involved in powering ups because it is a high power module.)


> DTC P2610:
Troubleshooting requires to concider scope then FOCUS.

Do yourself a favor to concentrate on what's related to fix the issue you're after. This is not a sales negotiation, the only reason to change course are hard evidences else MB dealers can play the very best runarounds 👏

You can't stir up the pot and make progress - That's a dealer trick not very effective.

​​​​​​

 

The ecu is hot, or was hot, 24/7. For a while I had I switch on it so it wouldnt kill the batt, but if I forgot n cranked it when off it was a big ordeal so I stopped doing it.

 

Having only part of the ECU power up while some is powered down is what the P2610 is flagging.

Between the marginal GND and the rats chewing your harness, some of your ECU circuits get crashed or disrupted to make it stay awake.

A second ECU swap informs us the issue is on the car side of ECU connector.

So you are good to do a full power tracing of ECU power feeds, both polarities.

Once you are sure about your power circuits then deal with your misc data lines colors based on what you see at rat sight.

You have this issue cornered. Bad data signaling can promote ECU sleeplessness. Nothing from the report helps flag what ECU circuits are involved.

There's no need to spend time diagnosing the rat job unless your testing indicate they managed to short-circuit things up (see fuses).

Your targets are ECU rat-sight then power circuits then live data.
🤞

 

All, I have a cabriolet I found my module to be at the very front of the trunk partially under the divider wall between trunk and back seat area.

The white box upfront is the module which is the keyless go and required replacing. I was lucky in finding it there. The white module in the forefront was one I bought only to realize it was not compatible with my car, so I had to buy a different one.

The original Part Number removed from car.

The replacement part number.

 

this is really interesting to me....Grabs popcorn and enough beer for long story to come.....

 

I did the grounds in the footwells, no change other than deforming my driver door edge guard which wont sit flush now. Youtube people show it popping right out. Not even close.
Op; glad you found it! I poked around in that area too, wondering wth that stuff is.
WRC; never ends does it...

 

Chevota...i feel your pain buddy. much sympathies. all the issues with MB is why i sold my A207 cab to my son ....I drive Toyota Highlander and 2 Can Am Spyders and Polaris Slingshots now :-)

 

Did you ever get your keyless go issue resolved? If so, how?

 

No I did not. I basically gave up.