Just to be certain before I break something..
The hex bolt that holds the fan clutch on isn't reverse-threaded,
is it? I ask because the service CD shows using a torque wrench
to turn the bolt CCW, and I don't think a torque wrench should ever
be used to loosen a bolt, so that would imply to loosen I turn it CW...

MY bolt is seriously stuck, and before I really get to yanking on the
thing I want to be sure I'm yanking in the right direction...

Thanks,

-- John
John Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA

 

It isn't a left hand thread bolt. A special tool is suggested to lock the fan pulley in place before trying to remove the clutch bolt. However, it isn't that hard to put a bit of a bind on the pulley to remove the bolt.

good luck,

jayare

 

Use a breaker bar.

 

arent all fan bolts righty loosy lefty tighty?

 

No, I've seen some american cars with a reverse thread. Its somewhat depends on the direction the fan spins and whether it pushes or pulls heat into or out of the radiator.

 

Okay, got it!
Indeed, standard (lefty loosey) threads. I bent a piece of metal rod to
catch the locking hole and with an oversized breaker bar it came out.
In fact, I've now got everything apart (I'm replacing that pesky shorty
coolant hose - what a task! But there's lots of other maintenance, like
coolant change and a new poly belt, that's overdue anyway). Time to
order parts and then see if I remember how everything went together...

Thanks!

 

Was it necessary to remove the distributor to replace the fan clutch? Alldata DIY discusses taking it off.

My 92 300 TE is making a fair amount of noise at the front and it doesn't seem to be either the water pump or the air pump.

Is there a way to test or diagnosis the fan clutch bearing when you think that might be the problem?

 

No, the distributor stayed put. I did however pull the radiator to give more
room to work. Perhaps if the rad is still in the extra room gained would help?
The dist is three hex head bolts and if you're high mileage you should check
the cap and rotor anyway (mine is in bad shape and will get replaced).

You may be able to use a mechanic's stethoscope (el cheapo ones available
from - gasp - Harbor Freight) and listen to the housing. If you hear grinding
or rumbling, that's your culprit. Be careful probing around a running engine!

You can use a piece of rubber hose, too, to help isolate the general location
of the noise. You want to be sure you're poking in the right place. Just hold
one end to your ear and poke around with the other end.

If the poly belt was off you could check for any side play. If it wiggles,
that's not good.

 

Used stethoscope to listen to different acessories and the pulley in the photo seemed loud, but I did not know where to listen for fan clutch bearing noise. I put stethoscope where you see the red mark in the photo.

It's hard to describe the noise kind of a whirling but loud not like the other acessories.

I just got this car a few weeks ago and I'm going over it. I've replaced the distributor and rotor along with lots of other stuff too.

 

Yes, that's the spot to listen. It's possible the clutch assy itself is
unhappy, but I'm much more inclined to say that this bearing itself is bad.

Is the clutch (the aluminum unit the fan bolts to) oily? Perhaps if
it lost its fluid it could start making noise, but... I think it's the main
support bearing.

 

As I recall from reviewing the service record this car has had the fan clutch changed at least once in its life so far. The vehicle now has 133K miles on it.

Is that pulley called the Acc. Belt Idler Pulley?

 

The above is correct .The bearings sound like ball bearings mixed with sand, no grease at all. I've ordered the bearing bracket and the small idler pulley too.

I don't think there is anything wrong with me fan clutch.

 

New idler pulley and fan clutch bearing bracket installed, very quiet now. Photo of old bracket, no grease in bearings at all. No wonder it did not seize.

 

[QUOTE=Cali300E]Just to be certain before I break something..
The hex bolt that holds the fan clutch on isn't reverse-threaded,
is it? I ask because the service CD shows using a torque wrench
to turn the bolt CCW, and I don't think a torque wrench should ever
be used to loosen a bolt, so that would imply to loosen I turn it CW...

MY bolt is seriously stuck, and before I really get to yanking on the
thing I want to be sure I'm yanking in the right direction...

Thanks,

-- John
John Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA

 

sorry typed my message in wrong place

 

Cali300E stated above that the bolt loosens to the left. He is correct. The bolt comes off without problem if you insert counter-holder (Special Service Tool #103 589 00 40 00) into the retaining slot of the fan bearing bracket and the mounting hole of the belt pulley. Photo below. Plenty of room to get torque wrench in there to tighten to 45 nm.

 

Hy,
i have a 1993 220 ce 4 cylinders
i observed my fan clutch behavior and i saw that it's different from the one on a bmw 318 1992, the one of the BMW disconnects the fan when the car is cold & on high RPM u can feel it easely coz the fan doesn't throw too much air u can even stop it!!!

so i thought that the one on my benz was not ok and it was connecting the fan in a contenious manner, so i bought a new one and i changed it but unfortunatly i didn't feel the difference it's still not like the bmw's

is it normal to act like this!

coz i live in the mountains and i get down to the city every day so on my way down the temp gauge shows 40 all the way down, seems like the car doesn't warm up until i hit the traffic jam, i checked the water temp valve it shows 87 that means that it doesn't open and circulate water until it reaches 87 degrees

so why the car doesn't warm up?
it's not very good coz the car consums much gaz on low temp, it should be up and stable around 80 i guess,...

thanks for any help
coz i want to know if it's what happens with all other cars or is their something wrong with mine...

 

I was trying to do this operation yesterday, but even if I had the breaker bar, I couldn't find any slot where to jam the pulley so as to remove the center bolt without the pulley spinning. Does anyone have any pics or advice to add for getting the fan clutch off?

 

Here we go. Pictures for, as my father said, "the good of all humanity," since we couldn't get this to work right from the cryptic directions above. SO!



Here is a picture with the fan clutch and the pulley behind it off. You can obviously see the slot where the smaller end of the breaker bar mentioned above will fit to lock the hub in place so you can remove the center bolt. The hub has six holes: four that are threaded for the bolts for the pulley, and two unthreaded for the breaker bar to fit in. Here is a view from the top.



Again, I post these pictures because it is not really obvious where to stick the breaker bar, especially considering the 17 years of road grime caking the entire area, and with the pulley and the fan clutch in the way. Hopefully these will help some other frustrated soul.