teezer

from my notes on w124, the k=xxxx equates to the rear end ratio to be used with that speedo

on a 124, stickers on the speedo head

k=1425 is 3.69
k=1330 is 3.46
k=1200 is 3.07
k=1100 is 2.88
_______________

190E 16V

Thanks, that's useful info!

Saijin_Naib

Really awesome, thanks a ton man!

Saijin_Naib

Hmm, I think Rick @ OverSeasSpeedo can do the gear change. I hope he is still well and in business, he didn't get back to p2scho which surprised me
Very true. Also a big issue seeing as I don't have Traction Control on this thinger.
Eh, I think I'm going to give this line of thought up. Difficulty seems to outweigh any potential benefits.
Way beyond me, and I don't know of a shop/indie that will undertake that kind of work nearby. Dead-ended methinks.
This may sound stupid, but how does LSD affect the handling dynamics of the car under cornering/accelerating? Would it push the car more towards neutral, understeer, or oversteer?

Also, do they in any way add drag to the trans and slow you down, or is that only for AWD?

Thanks

AMGDave

Well, it depends. In theory it will push things more towards oversteer... from understeer to neutral, or neutral to oversteer. This is mostly true if there is enough lockup (or not enough grip), which allows both rear tires to spin, which will let the rear end come out. However, the "limited" part of limited-slip usually keeps this from happening, at least on clean dry pavement.

The most noticeable change is on wet or dirty pavement... with the stock open diff, when turning from a stop sign I'd often sit there and spin one tire. You have to let off the throttle and wait for it to hook up again - very annoying. With LSD driving both tires, it will push the car forward instead of sitting there, unless neither tire has traction. On really slick surfaces (snow/ice) you're more likely to encounter oversteer with LSD than without it, but it will also get you moving in a straight line where you might otherwise be stuck. Installing LSD in my 1987 300D completely cured the "one wheel peel" problem, I can turn and hit the throttle and actually accelerate! It won't cut throttle like ASR so you'll need to do that yourself if required.



There is a tiny amount of added drag just due to the extra components inside the diff, but we're talking miniscule amounts - nothing like AWD where you have a whole transfer case plus front axles driving front wheels, connected to the whole mass of the wheels/tires/rotors/axles/etc. The improved traction greatly outweighs any tiny loss from the added differential weight.

Saijin_Naib

Ahh, okay. I'm looking to shift the car from understeer towards neutral/slightly oversteer. I can handle that a lot easier than I can deal with understeer. I hate how my friend's GTI drives once it breaks traction. Blegh.
Good good. Pretty much exactly what I want to hear. I feel like my car is really dead under heavy cornering situations to the point that I can barely accelerate. This may also be due to something else because it feels more like the engine is struggling to produce power rather than wheel spin, but this should help my AutoX a bit.
Hmm, okay. I'd like to not have my fuel economy completely go to **** and this seems like it won't hurt much if at all.

The LSD documents are on your site right? I'll have to give them a pouring over.

If you could, about how many hour's job is the LSD install into the rear diff? Is it something I need a specialist for or is it a job a decent mechanic should be able to tackle?

Thanks as always!

Saijin_Naib

Updates:
Got my K&N filter today, will try heatwrapping my intake (Just for yucks, only cost me 4$ in HVAC supplies lol).

Managed to get a 94/95 e320 wheel/airbag/ring from Joe for an amazing deal, thank you a ton Joe!
Excited to have a slightly nicer wheel + a safe airbag! Now I can upgrade easier to a newer wheel if I find one for cheap.

To Do:
Check sparkplugs and see how each one is doing. I suspect that they are fouled at this point. I am thinking NGK Iridium plugs. Sound good?

Saijin_Naib

Ed, I have no idea where to install my oil catch can between. Can you help me out?

Saijin_Naib

Update:
US Spec Amber Reflector Housing is NOT compatible with Euro Spec fog reflector housing. Sad, sad day.
Looks like I could force them in and install them, but they are shaped differently and I assume throw light a bit different.
I'm again on the hunt for Euro Spec Amber Fog Reflector Housings.

Update:
I've installed one side (Right Side) of my new wiper panels/wiper motors. The motor does not appear to be active although it is hooked up to the harness properly. Is there a fuse or something I may be missing?

Saijin_Naib

Question:
Is it possible to safely remove and re-insert the spark plugs without the special pliers/tool Mercedes specifies in the repair manual?

I tried manually pulling them out and it was a no-go.

Saijin_Naib

Thanks Rik for the guide, managed to finally get my warning triangle installed.
Also adjusted the spring tension for the decklid to the furthest spot so that the trunk lid will open and close properly.

Saijin_Naib

I'm reading through the w124 Shop Manual and I've come across the section on m104 Program Repairs for CIS-E. I've found this heading:
Complaint: Engine misfires around fuel reserve quantity and when cornering.

I do believe that this is what I've been experiencing in my car when I try to accelerate out of a hard cornering situation. The engine feels like it sort of dies off for a bit until the car becomes level and mostly straightened out. Once the car is level again the engine pulls strong, but while cornering and just after, it feels really limp. I don't hear tire spin and I don't feel it losing grip so I think it must be something with the fuel system.

The repair in the manual is to replace the fuel tank () I'm certain that after 20 years of fueling that it has probably accumulated some crap in the tank, especially since we've not always run the highest grade/quality fuel in it.

Do you think it could possibly be fixed by changing out the mesh strainer in the fuel tank and maybe trying to remove/lift out any debris, or should I just have someone replace the tank?

Or am I misdiagnosing this? The car maintains full power when straight/level but sometimes gets a bit limp when cornering. I've not noticed this behavior at any other time.

Thanks guys.

Saijin_Naib

Air Temp Sensor

What exactly does this bad-boy do? It is located on the side of my intake duct right before the airbox. Mine is rather laden with buildup/crap and I'm not certain if it is reading properly.

Obviously, this measures the intake air temperature. What effect does this have on the car if this is not working 100% properly? Can this be cleaned manually? I've got Tuff Stuff (general purpose cleaner, works amazing on pretty much anything) + a hard bristle toothbrush which I could take to it, but I'm not certain whether or not I would break it?

RBYCC

Brett

Oil catch can...

Looking at the front of the car, mount it to the right or the side where the vent hose runs from the engine to the ait cleaner.

You should have room in the front fender area near the ABS and behind the headlight.

Ed A.

RBYCC

Clean it, I'd use a solvent or even gasoline.
It slightly enrichens the AFR until the intake air temp warms up

RBYCC

Have you ever changed your fuel filter ?

RBYCC

Brett

Are you saying you can't remove the spark plug wire from the plug?

Don't pull by the wire...
Hold it by the insulator boot/sleeve and wiggle or rotate.
They should then pop off.

Ed A.

AMGDave

It's mostly photos of my two LSD builds, but yes. I just used the factory service manual for documentation.



You have to ask the mechanic... if they've done it before, they will let you know. But in general you'd need to have a rear-end (differential / driveline) shop do actual LSD install. Most mechanics would likely remove the diff from the car for you, then send it to the rear-end shop for the LSD conversion, then re-install the modified diff back in your car. Two separate steps. Wild guesses would be approx 4 hours to R&R the diff from the car, and then roughly another $400-$500 to have the new LSD carrier put into the diff. Plus the cost of the parts. And this assumes you are NOT changing gears. If they try to talk you into a full rebuild, I'd decline, unless your diff is noisy right now.



It may also pull ignition timing when air temps get too high. Clean it, and you can also check if it's working properly via an ohm meter.

Saijin_Naib

Okay, so I am bypassing the breather hose (2 in this picture)?


Sorry, I know I'm being a bit slow with this

Saijin_Naib

Alright, excellent. Will do that now.

Saijin_Naib

Which one? The mesh strainer inside the tank or the stand-alone unit that is somewhere outside the gas tank?

I'm 99% sure the answer is no to both of those.

Saijin_Naib

Yeah, I was grabbing the red plastic boot and applying what I thought was a fair amount of force but it just stayed quite happily in place. I figured I was going to strip something or break something so I just let it go.

I saw the MB tool in the shop manual and I figured it was probably one of the times that a special tool is necessary so I gave it up.

I guess I'll go ahead and give them another yank to see.

Saijin_Naib

Hmm, alright. Not too terribly expensive but certainly something I can't afford right now. I'll back-burner this. Thanks for the info though, certainly going to come in handy.
Hmm, okay. Is the proper spec/reading for it available in the shop manual? I've got my multimeter sitting here with me so I can take a reading so long as I know what I'm looking for.

AMGDave

Here is a link for the IAT sensor values on the M119 / LH injection... however I don't think your M104 / CIS sensor is the same. Maybe check if they are the same part number in the EPC, if so, here's the chart!

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...sor_values.pdf

Saijin_Naib

Thanks Dave. I cleaned it with ToughStuff & my bristle brush and a fair amount of crap came off of it so I think that may have helped. I've not gotten around to taking the multimeter to it yet, I got distracted by something else as I'm wont to do.