RHW

Using Ps2cho's source:

$166. rear
$236. front.
$140 (my as new B&G springs, maybe less$, 40% off of your best real deal on them)
-------
$542 no shipping costs if you stop by for my springs.

I just cancelled my 2 month backordered Koni's from http://www.koni-na.com/
and am using ps2cho's suggested source.

Saijin_Naib

Wish I could use his source, as I stated in the US Bilsten catalog a Sport strut/shock application does NOT exist for my car in my year. At all. End of story. Comforts or HD is all.

I need to use the Euro cataloge and I'm blocked from doing so by having a US IP address.

I've called the supposedly helpful Bilstein reps and they said sorry, nothing for your car. It is for this reason I've turned to the Konis for now. Unless someone can find me a Bilstein application guide for the Euro market that I can use. Even then, how am I going to get them here?

AMGDave

Bah, all standard (non-SLS) W124 shocks & struts are interchangeable. They just don't offer anything coupe-specific. The sedan stuff will bolt up. KONI only has one set each (red & yellow), they just say it will fit everything including the coupe, while Bilstein does not. The valving may be slightly different between sedan, wagon, coupe, and cabrio from the factory but I bet we're talking pretty minor amounts here.

Funny thing is, I looked up the 124.051 coupe in the EPC and the Sportline coupe dampers are the same as on the Sportline sedan! So, the Bilstein Sports (or KONI's) should work fine, regardless of what their catalog interchange says.

Saijin_Naib

Ahh, okay. Good to know. Should I then use a m104 equipped (94/95 e320 coupe) as the reference for my Bilstein Sport shocks/struts then? I assume the engine weight etc will be more comprable than say the m103 sedan would be. Or does that not even matter? The V8 ones are different, correct? All the I6 should be the same?

Saijin_Naib

Question:
I just clocked my 0-60 time with my father and I in the car and from a dead stop it took about 13s to reach 60 foot to the floor.

What am I looking at here? Plugs? Wires? Fuel delivery system? Exhaust? Car seems to run smoothly if not limp. Trans doesn't slip or take excessive time to shift.

ps2cho

13sec is definitely slow!! Heck even my 2.6L I thought was slow checking in at ~9sec. Were you feathering the throttle until peak torque or just flooring it from 0? It does make a 1-1.5sec difference to hit the right point. Takes some testing and practice. As my 2.6L has less torque than the 3.0, I really kick down at ~3k, rest is a heavy feathering until then. I used to be able to get the tires to screech from 2-3! No longer with the 18's...
Seeing as you are on a budget here's what you can do for free:

1) Check the resistance of all wires and see if they are within spec (resistance is written on wires)
2) Pull plugs and check condition and make sure they are gapped correctly. Got non-resistor right?
3) Check for any codes

The rest is m104 specific, so I won't give advice that I don't know.

And yes those shocks will fit fine, don't worry You may want to hold out on the springs and just do the shocks first because it will give you a ~1/2" drop from the sports alone. My ride height was jacked up, so you using the same setup as I have would be probably another 1" lower than me. FYI. I would do shocks first, then go from there. It may be wise to go with sportline springs over eibachs/h&r.

AMGDave

Yep, I would see if you can find what you want for the late E320 coupe. If they don't list anything for that either, then look for the E320 sedan items. The V8 cars are heavier and have slightly different components, particularly the front springs. The same KONIs are used on all of the above, though.




Hard to say. Is it upshifting at redline each shift, and starting out in first gear? I assume you are running premium gas (91-93 octane)? I'd start by at least pulling the plugs & cap/rotor for inspection, checking DTC's (codes), and perhaps a compression test for grins. Factory spec 0-60 on your car is approx 8.0 seconds, btw. Oh yeah - verify your speedo via GPS (at 60mph) and make sure you are using a stopwatch to clock it. If you are significantly above sea level, that will also slow things down a bit (but not THAT much).

Saijin_Naib

If I search the 94/95 model years on the Bilstein US site I do not get any of the I6 w124s, only the e420.

1993 is the last year that yields an I6 (granted only a 300e) but I guess as you guys have pointed out, this is close enough.

So then, the Sport shock listed for the 1993 300e Front application is this:
(F4-V36-0365-H0)

For the Rear Sport application, there are two items:
(F4-B36-1470-H1)
(F4-B36-1470-H0)

Both of these rear shocks have the same price, same description, and same length cited (36mm). Should I just match the H0 of the Front to the H0 of the rear or is something else going on here?

I feel like I'm the only person who ever runs into these kinds of difficulties :P

Saijin_Naib

Thanks Dave and Ps2cho. Good to see that both of you are along the same lines as to what might be wrong here, so I guess I'll focus on what you've both suggested.

Yes, pegged to the floor, starting in 1st, going to redline. It was running high 11s during the winter but I assumed that was due to the snow tires and the winter mix fuel, but things are the same if not worse now and I know we've switched over to summer mix here in NJ. I only run 93octane in it now and had just run some Prestone Fuel System Cleaner + Prestone Octane Boost before the SCCA meet as my fuel gauge was doing the tango and that seems to cure it for a few months at a time. I know that float eventually needs replacing but for now..

Pulling the plugs.. I asked before but I'll ask again. Simply grab the plug jacket and pull? I was using a fair amount of force and they were not inclined to exit the head. Do I really need to muscle it or what? I don't want to break **** :\

Code reader requires the Radioshack hack, correct? I should be able to breadboard that fairly easily as that is about as far as my circuitry skills go.

Compression/vac test is something that can be performed at any shop or is that a dealership service? The dealer by me is more of a theif than any other dealer I've ever encountered and I'd rather not do business with them.

Plugs are non-resistor Bosch if I recall correctly. I'm probably going NGK Coppers. Should I do new wires for the hell of it or not? Physically, they look fine.

Ps2cho, what wires am I resistance testing? The engine harness or the plug wires?

And yeah, thanks a ton again guys. Hopefully I can get this sorted in time for the next meet. If I was able to drift the crap out of the car with it performing at 60% then it should be a total blast at 100% :P

Saijin_Naib

Anyone with a m104 w124 in the Cali area feel like being adventuresome and having Magnaflow prototype a custom exhaust kit for us?

Benefits to the donor car being you get the final kit free of charge Benefits to us include we get a kit that is dyno tested and guaranteed to fit.

Plus, I'd love you forever :P

http://www.magnaflow.com/10projectvehicle/prototype.asp

RBYCC

Brett

Did you modify your intake system.....?
For some reason I remember you posting about some "device" you added.

Buy yourself a pair of spark plug boot remover pliers...
This way no chance of damaging the wire.

What you need to do is what I recommend to everyone but no one seems to listen.

Tune the engine and make all adjustments to factory spec.
This gives a baseline to modify from.

Do a compression test and leak down test.
Be more concerned with cylinder variance then the PSI reading.

The age of your vehicle would typically mean that your vacuum lines are brittle and subject to leaks.

You have an early M104-24V with the CIS-E?
If so check the condition of the boot between the air valve assembly and throttle valve.
These also tend to crack with age.

Have you checked the condition of your catalytic converter?
Blockage will seriously impede performance.

If you are truly turning 0-60 times in the 11-13 second range, then I would stop thinking about anything other then the engine.

For the time being forget about suspension, wheels, tires, anything other then the stock drivetrain...

My M103-12V when stock had no problem running sub eight sixty times...
Perhaps because from new it was always maintained to factory spec?

Ed A.

ps2cho

Yes the ignition wires. As Ed suggested buying a pair of spark plug pullers is a good investment, but you can remove them safely without. Give them a gentle twist each way while pulling. Don't 'tug' them with brute force as you'll simply stress the rubber.

Making sure all ignition elements are fresh is an easy one. Most any euro shop can do a compression and leakdown test for you. It would be a wise investment. Don't pay them more than $50 to do it or you are getting ripped off so call around ahead of time for price quotes.

Ed I have a question for you -- My 2.6 when I did a test got ~180psi across all cylinders, but the leakdown results indicated a loss of ~25-30%. Seeing as she drives perfectly fine could the gauge be a little off? There was noticeable air loss though I could hear. I didn't pinpoint though at the time. This car has less than stellar history, so it is no surprise. Longevity-wise as long as I keep my oil changes frequent do you think the motor will still hold on another 100k or so?

RBYCC

180PSI per cylinder is great..
I'd do the leakdown test again...under 30% still isn't problematic...10% is fantastic and 20% is still a strong motor !!!

Saijin_Naib

No device, just K&N filter and HVAC R-Value 4 heatwrapping around the intake boot and the airbox to try and reflect back some engine bay heat from getting into the air intake.
Mercedes one or just any one?
Well, its not like I didn't want to listen I just never really noticed how the car was actually performing. It is still smooth and idles smooth and everything so it never felt wrong.
Apparently my dad has all the tools for the compression/leak tests so I guess I'll have him do it the next time I'm home.
Vac lines are pretty much a pull every one and replace every one issue, correct?
Do you have a photo of this or the name of this part so I can look it up in the EPC?
Should be fine. Full exhaust replacement 2 summers ago when my mufflers rotted out.
Probably. I've not maintained the car well but I also don't know how to much of this by myself.

ps2cho

Just be careful...tracking the car like that without any sort of maintenance in mind will not end well.

Saijin_Naib

I try and keep up on fluid maintenance, aka, all I know how to do or have done for me :\

Oil is kept after, as is trans fluid, radiator, etc. I watch engine temps closely and keep mindful for any change in behavior of the car as I'm tracking it.

As I've said, the car has pretty much always been this way I've just never bothered to clock it and get a number.

Ps2cho, you interested in getting a Magnaflow prototyped for the m103? I think you'd make a lot of people happy

ps2cho

Sorry, say again?
I have a hollowed out the precats and had the exhaust shop weld in a high flow magnaflow cat on my wagon, but that's it...Nothing special.

Saijin_Naib

Info Concerning Magnaflow Prototyping Program

Basically, if you apply and Magnaflow approves your car, they will build and prototype a dyno tested 100% guaranteed custom exhaust for that vehicle application that will be added to their catalog.

You get the prototyped exhaust for free. Other m103 w124 owners get a dyno proven full exhaust they can purchase and bolt up.

I'm considering applying for my m104 but I have to get it running factory spec first and then figure out how I'd drive it cross-country and what'd I do for about 10 days :\

ps2cho

Oh wow RSM is right down the road from me...literally!
Doubt they would accept an older non-performance MB, but I registered for the heck of it Would be awesome if they picked me!!

Saijin_Naib

Sweet, so that makes a m103 Sedan (and possibly m103 Wagon) available to them as well as a m104 Coupe. We just have to see if anyone else is game to apply and get the whole w124 range covered.

I think that we've got a great group of knowledgeable people as well as a growing group of younger people who are into the mod scene. The w124 is finally affordable for people in our age bracket and I think its time as a tunable car might just come forth now.

Maybe if we throw some weight around we can get something moving

I've emailed Renntech about their w124 performance mods and such and I'll see what they have to say in return. They might just have blacklisted me as a crazy person but I hope not.

Saijin_Naib

My email to Magnaflow if anyone wants to read. I think I made a good case for us (minus the spelling errors), any thoughts?

AMGDave

I would not expect any serious power gains from exhaust mods... I'd be impressed if the custom system showed a 10hp gain. The stock exhausts flow surprisingly well, even on the V8 models. I'd love to be proven wrong though. Serious power will come from forced induction. Anything else will be incremental (read: miniscule) without major $$$, i.e. displacement increase, porting/flowing heads & manifolds, custom cam, etc. Some of those things trade low-end torque for high-end power which is not always good.

RENNtech is a waste of time - they have no interest in anything W124, unless you are asking about some old stuff they want to get rid of anyway. Their prices are usually exorbitant as well. What did you have in mind from them, btw? I assume you have seen their old W124 catalog here already?

Saijin_Naib

Yeah, me either. But, if they're willing to prototype, test, and dyno even a few HP is welcome.

I donno, they've been civil with me at least. Yeah, I looked at your catalog and that is what prompted me to ask.

I've been told that they can put together the parts for the 3.6L build for about 7k and that the rest of the work will be another 4-5k. About what I expected (realistic) more than I had hoped though.

Sounds about like what a proper twin-turbo install would cost.

Saijin_Naib

Giant rims are giant. I have never really visualized the size of 20" rims until this picture, but my god...
They're off my Uncle's Shelby GT500 if anyone is interested.

AMGDave

Have you thought about just swapping in a C36 motor? It would be far cheaper than building a 3.6L from scratch. Even using the C36 bottom end (or long block?) would probably save a ton of $$$. Better yet, swap in the whole C36 engine management system (HFM) like Neil V did in his 360TE AMG Uberwagon.