--What kind of OIL to use--
#1
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--What kind of OIL to use--
okay spring and summer are coming around the corner and am getting ready to change my oil?
thoughts and recomendations on thickness and what kind?
currently using 10w30
should i go thicker?
thoughts and recomendations on thickness and what kind?
currently using 10w30
should i go thicker?
#3
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Enzo, my Benzo
20W50 for Summer. 5 or 10W30 for winter
That's what I did in Calgary with its hot summer and cold winter.
Also NO SYNTHETIC....mobil 1 is bad advice if you have never had synthetic in your car. Don't risk leaks....run standard mineral oil.
That's what I did in Calgary with its hot summer and cold winter.
Also NO SYNTHETIC....mobil 1 is bad advice if you have never had synthetic in your car. Don't risk leaks....run standard mineral oil.
#4
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yah i wont do synthetic i've heard that from some benz tech too... cuz it will leake... standard oil it is
thanks Z
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ohh and are these a good deal?
BOSCH Part # H9DC0 $2.44
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1193824k276414
BOSCH Part # H9DC0 $2.44
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1193824k276414
#6
I've been running mobil1 10w30 for 250k miles without issue (7500 mile change interval) and everything looked like new when I changed a head gasket at around 200k mi.
I'd never run real oil in any of my cars.. especially not a mercedes. If swapping to it started a leak, I would just fix the leak.
I'd never run real oil in any of my cars.. especially not a mercedes. If swapping to it started a leak, I would just fix the leak.
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500E Signal Rot
This is a good chart for Mobile 1 oils, I also am a user of the Truck & Suv forumula because of the higher content of detergents in this particular oil.
http://www.2phast.com/500e/techdocs/mobil-1_specs.xls
#9
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Enzo, my Benzo
I won't get into this debate again because there are plenty of people that can back up both sides, including mechanics and industry professionals.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. There is NOTHING wrong with running mineral oil in cars DESIGNED to run on mineral oil.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. There is NOTHING wrong with running mineral oil in cars DESIGNED to run on mineral oil.
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1995 E 300 Diesel
For the Synthetic oil crowd Im surprised no one has jumped on Castrol's 8X better wear protection than Mobil 1 claim
http://www.castroledgeusa.com/?utm_s...n=Castrol_EDGE
http://www.castroledgeusa.com/?utm_s...n=Castrol_EDGE
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1993 300CE Sportline
why would you do any different than follow the manufacturers specs? these engines are built to tight specs and need a lower weight oil 5w-40 as opposed to 20w 50 to get oil flowing when engine is cold. more so in our northern climate where our summer figures are not so hot
#18
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why would you do any different than follow the manufacturers specs? these engines are built to tight specs and need a lower weight oil 5w-40 as opposed to 20w 50 to get oil flowing when engine is cold. more so in our northern climate where our summer figures are not so hot
#19
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http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
Pre 98 non fss engine use the minimum recommended spec at least and you do not need 20w50.The 20 means the viscosity at ambient start temp and that is so thick it takes for ever to circulate at start up,which is the greatest wear point in an engines life.Minimum specs are in your manual.
If your engine is tight and has no leaks and is in good condition mobil1 ow40 is fine,at regular oil change intervals it is overkill as you will be tossing oil out that last 10,000 miles with the proper filter.Well before it has reached its service life.
I run 0w40 mobil 1 syn all year round and my climate is not much different than yours.12 miles north
If your engine is tight and has no leaks and is in good condition mobil1 ow40 is fine,at regular oil change intervals it is overkill as you will be tossing oil out that last 10,000 miles with the proper filter.Well before it has reached its service life.
I run 0w40 mobil 1 syn all year round and my climate is not much different than yours.12 miles north
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97 S600 coupe/gf 16 C300 Lux. Former: 08 GL450, 83 300D, 97 C230, 08 c300 luxury, 92 500SL, 93 400E
GOD....not another oil thread
I can't believe the search function doesn't yield 10 billion results in every car forum in every part of the WORLD for thus question
These 14-24 year old cars are designed to run plain ol dino oil. Call the MB shops and they will probably tell you Rotella, Mobil 1 for synthetic in their shops.
lower # is related to ambient temp - unless you live in the Yukon Territory, anything 10w an below is fine. If it's 80* outside when you crank you car, hell, you can run 20w anytime you want.
30 - as in 10w30 - the higher number - is operating temp protection. My Yaris uses 30, a 20+ year newer design. Cars were not built to tolerances like today's cars - hence the rise of 20 and 30 weight oils in the past few years. You need to run either 40 or 50 - and YES, on a car with a decade or 2 of age and wear, 90, 150, 220k miles, WEAR will reduce any "tightness of tolerance" in ANY motor. Hence, why many shops (including mine, which is the best guy within 100 miles) uses 15w50 Mobil 1, year round, in EVERY pre-FSS Benz they service.
Synthetic is perfectly fine in an older motor. It's probably also overkill, but unless your motor has been abused from a maintenance standpoint (or you are on original gaskets on your m104), you won't have a problem with leaks. And it isn't like if you pour sythetic into a gummed-up Dino-fed motor, the oil is going to just spill out onto the pavement. I ran it in a 97 c230 for the first time at 90k, and I might have lost 1/8th of a quart in 5k of driving to seal leakage.
These 14-24 year old cars are designed to run plain ol dino oil. Call the MB shops and they will probably tell you Rotella, Mobil 1 for synthetic in their shops.
lower # is related to ambient temp - unless you live in the Yukon Territory, anything 10w an below is fine. If it's 80* outside when you crank you car, hell, you can run 20w anytime you want.
30 - as in 10w30 - the higher number - is operating temp protection. My Yaris uses 30, a 20+ year newer design. Cars were not built to tolerances like today's cars - hence the rise of 20 and 30 weight oils in the past few years. You need to run either 40 or 50 - and YES, on a car with a decade or 2 of age and wear, 90, 150, 220k miles, WEAR will reduce any "tightness of tolerance" in ANY motor. Hence, why many shops (including mine, which is the best guy within 100 miles) uses 15w50 Mobil 1, year round, in EVERY pre-FSS Benz they service.
Synthetic is perfectly fine in an older motor. It's probably also overkill, but unless your motor has been abused from a maintenance standpoint (or you are on original gaskets on your m104), you won't have a problem with leaks. And it isn't like if you pour sythetic into a gummed-up Dino-fed motor, the oil is going to just spill out onto the pavement. I ran it in a 97 c230 for the first time at 90k, and I might have lost 1/8th of a quart in 5k of driving to seal leakage.
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Agree that conventional oil changed regularly with the filter will give all the miles you want out of any car, especially a Mercedes.
Doubtful the additional cost of synthetic oil will do more then make you feel good.
Disagree that synthetic oil will make your engine leak...
It may find areas that had minimal leakage and create more of a leak.
I ran for seventeen years on conventional oil per Merc recommendation and went to synthetic ( Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 ) only after the twin turbo install.
Went synthetic due to the heat factor over stock created by the oil and water cooled turbos.
To each his own, but many Mercs with hundreds of thousands of miles on the clock never saw a drop of synthetic and are clean as a whistle inside !
#22
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My mechanic, MB-trained, (very particular, German guy, who is also race mechanic for a Daytona Porsche team) says use 15W40, or 20W50, in summer.
MOST IMPORTANT: change your oil every 3 months or every 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Fresh oil, to prevent deterioration of your timing chain guides, and no particulates suspended in the oil, causing wear.
Dino is fine if the oil is changed according to the schedule, above.
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1994 E320
Yes, Albert, go thicker.
My mechanic, MB-trained, (very particular, German guy, who is also race mechanic for a Daytona Porsche team) says use 15W40, or 20W50, in summer.
MOST IMPORTANT: change your oil every 3 months or every 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Fresh oil, to prevent deterioration of your timing chain guides, and no particulates suspended in the oil, causing wear.
Dino is fine if the oil is changed according to the schedule, above.
My mechanic, MB-trained, (very particular, German guy, who is also race mechanic for a Daytona Porsche team) says use 15W40, or 20W50, in summer.
MOST IMPORTANT: change your oil every 3 months or every 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Fresh oil, to prevent deterioration of your timing chain guides, and no particulates suspended in the oil, causing wear.
Dino is fine if the oil is changed according to the schedule, above.
#24
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