Just bought an 87 260E
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'87 300E '92 300E
Very feasible to DIY, I enjoyed repairing mine... 
Once you get the cluster out(had to go through the paneling to push mine out)All i had to do was push a gear back into place, some locktite in the right place and hopefully it will work for quite awhile.
W123 Odo Repair
That guide pretty much covers the W124's odometer problem. But being a W124, the odometer's housing is more complex, or at least more constricting, and it is difficult to properly place a drop of adhesive to that last metal gear.
But, to just get the odometer running again, chances are all you have to do is push the pin back through that last gear, not sure how long it will stay there though.
Once you get the cluster out(had to go through the paneling to push mine out)All i had to do was push a gear back into place, some locktite in the right place and hopefully it will work for quite awhile.
W123 Odo Repair
That guide pretty much covers the W124's odometer problem. But being a W124, the odometer's housing is more complex, or at least more constricting, and it is difficult to properly place a drop of adhesive to that last metal gear.
But, to just get the odometer running again, chances are all you have to do is push the pin back through that last gear, not sure how long it will stay there though.
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Very feasible to DIY, I enjoyed repairing mine...
Once you get the cluster out(had to go through the paneling to push mine out)All i had to do was push a gear back into place, some locktite in the right place and hopefully it will work for quite awhile.
W123 Odo Repair
That guide pretty much covers the W124's odometer problem. But being a W124, the odometer's housing is more complex, or at least more constricting, and it is difficult to properly place a drop of adhesive to that last metal gear.
But, to just get the odometer running again, chances are all you have to do is push the pin back through that last gear, not sure how long it will stay there though.
Once you get the cluster out(had to go through the paneling to push mine out)All i had to do was push a gear back into place, some locktite in the right place and hopefully it will work for quite awhile.
W123 Odo Repair
That guide pretty much covers the W124's odometer problem. But being a W124, the odometer's housing is more complex, or at least more constricting, and it is difficult to properly place a drop of adhesive to that last metal gear.
But, to just get the odometer running again, chances are all you have to do is push the pin back through that last gear, not sure how long it will stay there though.
----
I also noticed my dome lights stay on after the car has been locked and they don't turn off....
And lastly (for interior questions)...the console lights near the shifter don't work. The windows (well one...) work so there must be power. Is there a bulb or a fuse for it? Any ideas?
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On the odometer, you can just get another one from the junk yard and change the numbers. I've had to replace mine a couple years ago and i just rolled back the numbers to the numbers of my original one.
What position is the switch on? There is a position that turns it on when you open the doors.
There's a small bulb on the shifter console just unplug it and replace it.
I also noticed my dome lights stay on after the car has been locked and they don't turn off....
And lastly (for interior questions)...the console lights near the shifter don't work.
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On the odometer, you can just get another one from the junk yard and change the numbers. I've had to replace mine a couple years ago and i just rolled back the numbers to the numbers of my original one.
What position is the switch on? There is a position that turns it on when you open the doors.
There's a small bulb on the shifter console just unplug it and replace it.
What position is the switch on? There is a position that turns it on when you open the doors.
There's a small bulb on the shifter console just unplug it and replace it.
--
Furthest forward...same as my TE. I've tried all the positions though just in case.
Once I get the new ignition wires and put my TE's old rotor + cap + o2 sensor on the 260E I'm gonna talk to the guy at the smog station to just run it to see if I will pass and check to see where I stand. They didn't make any difference when I bought new ones on my TE...so I figure no point spending $180 quite yet. Free to test right
Lookin much better with the black bumper now. Still need to find a good one at the junkyard too as up close this one has scuffs and dents all over it.
Last edited by ps2cho; Mar 28, 2009 at 03:40 PM.
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Lookin much better with the black bumper now. Still need to find a good one at the junkyard too as up close this one has scuffs and dents all over it.
Once I get the new ignition wires and put my TE's old rotor + cap + o2 sensor on the 260E I'm gonna talk to the guy at the smog station to just run it to see if I will pass and check to see where I stand. They didn't make any difference when I bought new ones on my TE...so I figure no point spending $180 quite yet. Free to test right
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w211 & w124
Wow, just reading through this thread makes my head spin. So much shop talk and all...
So since you guys are all in socal, anyone willing to help a brotha out with some little things on my wagon? I really want to try changing the spark plugs and doing a DIY tuneup if possible. Not sure if that is something I could do myself or not.
I live about 10 minutes from one of those Ecology places so I might try it out and see if they have an A/c control unit. This coming weekend is 50% off, anyone wanna go with?
So since you guys are all in socal, anyone willing to help a brotha out with some little things on my wagon? I really want to try changing the spark plugs and doing a DIY tuneup if possible. Not sure if that is something I could do myself or not.
I live about 10 minutes from one of those Ecology places so I might try it out and see if they have an A/c control unit. This coming weekend is 50% off, anyone wanna go with?
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Wow, just reading through this thread makes my head spin. So much shop talk and all...
So since you guys are all in socal, anyone willing to help a brotha out with some little things on my wagon? I really want to try changing the spark plugs and doing a DIY tuneup if possible. Not sure if that is something I could do myself or not.
I live about 10 minutes from one of those Ecology places so I might try it out and see if they have an A/c control unit. This coming weekend is 50% off, anyone wanna go with?
So since you guys are all in socal, anyone willing to help a brotha out with some little things on my wagon? I really want to try changing the spark plugs and doing a DIY tuneup if possible. Not sure if that is something I could do myself or not.
I live about 10 minutes from one of those Ecology places so I might try it out and see if they have an A/c control unit. This coming weekend is 50% off, anyone wanna go with?
Get yourself a Haynes manual first!
That...or find everything you need here:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Main.html
I have high HC's...that's why.
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Well the distributor looked a little dirty...so swapped it out, but the rotor looked fine.
New ignition wires in...Runs a tad better...
See that oil leak going down towards the front? Is that the timing cover gasket gone?
New ignition wires in...Runs a tad better...
See that oil leak going down towards the front? Is that the timing cover gasket gone?
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It's the upper timing cover gasket that you need to change. I've been getting around to changing mine but i just don't have time. It's a $2 gasket but will waste about 1 quart every 3k miles so i don't bother changing it yet.
High HC's means unburnt fuel. You need to check your ignition or the cat is gone. You first need to get everything to spec like you did on your wagon.
I have high HC's...that's why.
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Apr 1, 2009 at 12:49 AM.
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Swapped the coil today from my wagons old one. I can tell it made a difference. The idle settles a lot faster and is more stable even though I didn't notice any performance differences.
Also...I noticed that when the car is cold, at first start up, the rpm's used to shoot up 4-5k (rev counter only, not the actual engine)....but it didn't do it...so that's one thing solved
New idle air hoses on too.
Going to put the O2 sensor on this weekend, fiddle with the mixture one last time and take her back to the smog station to see where I am at. Gonna try and ask if I can just have it checked to see if it will pass or fail first before they do the "real thing"...
Also...I noticed that when the car is cold, at first start up, the rpm's used to shoot up 4-5k (rev counter only, not the actual engine)....but it didn't do it...so that's one thing solved
New idle air hoses on too.
Going to put the O2 sensor on this weekend, fiddle with the mixture one last time and take her back to the smog station to see where I am at. Gonna try and ask if I can just have it checked to see if it will pass or fail first before they do the "real thing"...
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Well the lack of power was the EHA. Just because the EHA pressure checks out, does not mean that it is functioning correctly I guess! My bottom end power is awesome now. She almost broke traction changing gears in a straight line!! 
Fiddled with the mixture and took her back to the smog station.
Still failed, but I made huge progress!
Why did my %O2 increase? My NO decreased dramatically!. So all that remains is the HC. HC = ignition related? Or can it be Cat related?
Fiddled with the mixture and took her back to the smog station.
Still failed, but I made huge progress!
Why did my %O2 increase? My NO decreased dramatically!. So all that remains is the HC. HC = ignition related? Or can it be Cat related?
Last edited by ps2cho; Apr 11, 2009 at 04:43 PM.
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Well the lack of power was the EHA. Just because the EHA pressure checks out, does not mean that it is functioning correctly I guess! My bottom end power is awesome now. She almost broke traction changing gears in a straight line!!
Looks like for smog we need to check the EHA, OVP, o2 sensor, and ICV.
BTW, I would go again but first fill up with 91 octane and add two bottles of ISO-HEET. They sell it at pep boys for like a dollar. Did you change your o2 sensor? Also, look at your fuel mixture or %CO2. You are running a little lean it should be 14.7-9.
Why does your report look different than mine?
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Apr 11, 2009 at 05:05 PM.
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Let's add it to the list or problems and fixes... I wish someone would join me in doing this...
Looks like for smog we need to check the EHA, OVP, o2 sensor, and ICV.
BTW, I would go again but first fill up with 91 octane and add two bottles of ISO-HEET. They sell it at pep boys for like a dollar. Did you change your o2 sensor? Also, look at your fuel mixture or %CO2. You are running a little lean it should be 14.7-9.
Why does your report look different than mine?
Looks like for smog we need to check the EHA, OVP, o2 sensor, and ICV.
BTW, I would go again but first fill up with 91 octane and add two bottles of ISO-HEET. They sell it at pep boys for like a dollar. Did you change your o2 sensor? Also, look at your fuel mixture or %CO2. You are running a little lean it should be 14.7-9.
Why does your report look different than mine?
I did not change the O2 sensor yet as I was hoping it would pass due to the EHA fix.
I will take your advice for next time and fill up with 91 and the ISO-HEET. I was going to swap the O2 sensor, but I brought the wrong wrench (thought it was 18, but it looks like it is 20mm. Car is banned from my apartment right now so I gotta drive to a friends house to work on it.
I think it looks different because I have the before paper behind the after. Two separate papers if you look. I just matched them up so you could see the improvement.
I am also considering getting a new engine temp sensor as its only that and the o2 sensor left that affects the mixture. It looks a little shabby that's why...The only thing I have actually bought for this car so far is the ignition leads. Everything else I have swapped with parts from my TE's box
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Car is banned from my apartment right now so I gotta drive to a friends house to work on it.
I am also considering getting a new engine temp sensor as its only that and the o2 sensor left that affects the mixture. It looks a little shabby that's why...The only thing I have actually bought for this car so far is the ignition leads. Everything else I have swapped with parts from my TE's box
I think it looks different because I have the before paper behind the after. Two separate papers if you look. I just matched them up so you could see the improvement.
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Why is it banned? they don't want more w124s around there... to many cars?
Well, I would do the O2 because it looks like the EHA is back on track and maybe that's making the fuel mixture lean. After every Idle mixture adjustment you need to drive it around so the computer can re adjust the mixture. You need to drive for at least 30 min and get the car really warm. Do not turn it off when you get to the smog place but i would make an appointment first.
What I meant was that my info is all on one paper..
Well, I would do the O2 because it looks like the EHA is back on track and maybe that's making the fuel mixture lean. After every Idle mixture adjustment you need to drive it around so the computer can re adjust the mixture. You need to drive for at least 30 min and get the car really warm. Do not turn it off when you get to the smog place but i would make an appointment first.
What I meant was that my info is all on one paper..
Just got back swapping the O2 sensor out. I used my TE's old one again because I swapped it and made no difference during my rough idle hunt...so for now it will suffice on the 260E. Visually it looked 5x better than the one I pulled out. It seems to be a little smoother. Going to get the oil changed and make sure the tires are inflated evenly and go for the test once more. I was so close so I think I will get it this time. The oil probably has not been changed in 2-3 years so I read that it can cause vapors that increase HC. Only reason I have not gotten the oil changed is because the car is not street legal and the tags are expired for over 2 years...so I have been very careful.
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Family of three with 9 cars...
Just got back swapping the O2 sensor out. I used my TE's old one again because I swapped it and made no difference during my rough idle hunt...so for now it will suffice on the 260E. Visually it looked 5x better than the one I pulled out. It seems to be a little smoother. Going to get the oil changed and make sure the tires are inflated evenly and go for the test once more. I was so close so I think I will get it this time. The oil probably has not been changed in 2-3 years so I read that it can cause vapors that increase HC. Only reason I have not gotten the oil changed is because the car is not street legal and the tags are expired for over 2 years...so I have been very careful.
Just got back swapping the O2 sensor out. I used my TE's old one again because I swapped it and made no difference during my rough idle hunt...so for now it will suffice on the 260E. Visually it looked 5x better than the one I pulled out. It seems to be a little smoother. Going to get the oil changed and make sure the tires are inflated evenly and go for the test once more. I was so close so I think I will get it this time. The oil probably has not been changed in 2-3 years so I read that it can cause vapors that increase HC. Only reason I have not gotten the oil changed is because the car is not street legal and the tags are expired for over 2 years...so I have been very careful.
Well, you can register the car without the smog and just get a permit number for that month. You shouldn't have done the smog with oil that is probably 2 years old. Every time i get a mustang I run three oil changes with cheap oil to clean out the sludge because it's like breaking in the engine all over again. Once you get it smoged you'll be set and then you can start modding the exterior and interior. I wish there was a good w124/201 car club in cali that actually met and shared mods. I remember the one we tried to start but umm didn't work out...one2four...lmao.. I know everyone goes to TJs in irvine but it's mostly newer benzes..
Who's going to the junk yard tomorrow?
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Well, you can register the car without the smog and just get a permit number for that month. You shouldn't have done the smog with oil that is probably 2 years old. Every time i get a mustang I run three oil changes with cheap oil to clean out the sludge because it's like breaking in the engine all over again. Once you get it smoged you'll be set and then you can start modding the exterior and interior. I wish there was a good w124/201 car club in cali that actually met and shared mods. I remember the one we tried to start but umm didn't work out...one2four...lmao.. I know everyone goes to TJs in irvine but it's mostly newer benzes..
Who's going to the junk yard tomorrow?
Who's going to the junk yard tomorrow?
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Well, they always butcher the exhausts when they take off the engines and transmission. I mostly go to try out things and see what i find. It's easier to try something on a car in the junk yard than my own car. I'll keep an eye out... It's 50% off tomorrow at pick a part..
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50% Off!? Sweet! My dad's heading out there today and gonna look for the exhaust for me as he has gotta get some parts for himself too.
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How do you set the mixture on your 300E? Can you tell me the exact steps you take? I want to make sure I am doing it correctly on the 260E because it does not have the diagnostic controller like my 88 does.
Also you said that I am running a little lean due to CO2 levels. If I adjust the mixture and make it richer...then won't the HC increase?
---
How do you set the mixture on your 300E? Can you tell me the exact steps you take? I want to make sure I am doing it correctly on the 260E because it does not have the diagnostic controller like my 88 does.
Also you said that I am running a little lean due to CO2 levels. If I adjust the mixture and make it richer...then won't the HC increase?
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Also you said that I am running a little lean due to CO2 levels.
The way i do it is to just disconnect the idle control valve while the engine is running and lean it to where engine is almost stalling. Connect the idle control valve and turn the mixture screw clockwise a little to enrich the mixture. You'll notice it'll start to rev up a little after each time you move it, leave it when the idle evens out. You need to drive around and your economy gauge should be on top of the O in idle with the transmission on drive. After you get it close, just do fine adjustments and that's it, worked for me as you can see in my smog test.
Oh, and i was wrong...you're running rich... anything less than 14.7 is rich and more is lean...the %CO2 means your air/fuel mixture...also, try adjusting the transmission and accelerator linkage per manual instructions. You have everything you need in that manual, thanks btw for posting it.
Make sure you have a clean air filter when doing the smog test too...
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Apr 12, 2009 at 11:07 PM.
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Just follow the proper steps in the manual.....I don't recommend my way because i just came up with it....
The way i do it is to just disconnect the idle control valve while the engine is running and lean it to where engine is almost stalling. Connect the idle control valve and turn the mixture screw clockwise a little to enrich the mixture. You'll notice it'll start to rev up a little after each time you move it, leave it when the idle evens out. You need to drive around and your economy gauge should be on top of the O in idle with the transmission on drive. After you get it close, just do fine adjustments and that's it, worked for me as you can see in my smog test.
Oh, and i was wrong...you're running rich... anything less than 14.7 is rich and more is lean...the %CO2 means your air/fuel mixture...also, try adjusting the transmission and accelerator linkage per manual instructions. You have everything you need in that manual, thanks btw for posting it.
Make sure you have a clean air filter when doing the smog test too...
The way i do it is to just disconnect the idle control valve while the engine is running and lean it to where engine is almost stalling. Connect the idle control valve and turn the mixture screw clockwise a little to enrich the mixture. You'll notice it'll start to rev up a little after each time you move it, leave it when the idle evens out. You need to drive around and your economy gauge should be on top of the O in idle with the transmission on drive. After you get it close, just do fine adjustments and that's it, worked for me as you can see in my smog test.
Oh, and i was wrong...you're running rich... anything less than 14.7 is rich and more is lean...the %CO2 means your air/fuel mixture...also, try adjusting the transmission and accelerator linkage per manual instructions. You have everything you need in that manual, thanks btw for posting it.
Make sure you have a clean air filter when doing the smog test too...
Good idea about the linkage. I will make sure its all in spec.
So gameplan: Change oil, adjust mixture, throw some ISO-HEET in, adjust linkage and pray
I'll report back in a few days fingers crossed.
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Remember, run the car for at least 30 min to keep the cats nice an warm and don't let them cool down... You're almost there!...Keep the air filter on...it won't make a difference unless it's super dirty and blocking the air from coming in...
here's more info on ISO-HEET
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/smo...pass-smog.html
here's more info on ISO-HEET
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/smo...pass-smog.html
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Apr 13, 2009 at 01:53 AM.
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After reading alot about the denatured alcohol, it seems a better route to take than doing the "Guaranteed to pass" stuff. I am gonna siphon out some gas to get down to 1/2 a tank then put 1 gallon of denatured alcohol. I don't want too much in because of the corrosive effects and I only need a slight decrease in HC....the oil change + o2 sensor swap may put me under, but I want to make sure and be safe by putting it in just in case. Wouldn't want to spend $40...then have to buy $20 of alcy then another $40...so a total of $160 getting the damn thing smogged!
One guy had 140 HC and with 1/4 tank and 2 gallons denatured alcy after the test he had 25 HC WOW!
One guy had 140 HC and with 1/4 tank and 2 gallons denatured alcy after the test he had 25 HC WOW!
