Your 104 sounds like a diesel when starts
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Your 104 sounds like a diesel when starts
So if your m104 sounds like a diesel it is very likely that you have the shock on your Belt tensioner degrading. Here is a pic of a good one a bad one. The rubber hardens over time and cracks or even shrinks. This sets up a metal on metal slapping that sound just like the high compression diesel engine. Kinda clunky sounding.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Couple of pulley removed and some bolts to swing the tensioner bracket out of the way. I am actually going to have to replace my tensioner on monday so I will take some pics for you and post.
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From: USR, NJ, United States of Americaland
1994 C124 E320 Coupe - 1975 W116 280S
A DIY would be awesome GED cuz my mechanic told me a couple services ago that the belt tensioner shouldn't be touched if its fine, including tightening so my impression is that it will need to be done soon.
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From: Long Beach, Ca
lots of cars
We need to have a list of symptoms and parts our members have changed. I think something like the pscho thread but more of organized. It might need more input but i think it could help other members out.
ie.
m103: Fuel accumulator = fixed warm start problem
m103: Fuel Injectors = Might fix misfire.
ie.
m103: Fuel accumulator = fixed warm start problem
m103: Fuel Injectors = Might fix misfire.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Clearwater Beach, Florida
2016 Cls63s AMG
So if your m104 sounds like a diesel it is very likely that you have the shock on your Belt tensioner degrading. Here is a pic of a good one a bad one. The rubber hardens over time and cracks or even shrinks. This sets up a metal on metal slapping that sound just like the high compression diesel engine. Kinda clunky sounding.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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TBD
We need to have a list of symptoms and parts our members have changed. I think something like the pscho thread but more of organized. It might need more input but i think it could help other members out.
ie.
m103: Fuel accumulator = fixed warm start problem
m103: Fuel Injectors = Might fix misfire.
ie.
m103: Fuel accumulator = fixed warm start problem
m103: Fuel Injectors = Might fix misfire.
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
I had to buy one when I put my engine back together cause the original had the urethane bushing fall apart in my hand. Sounds like an ebay item.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,403
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From: Clearwater Beach, Florida
2016 Cls63s AMG
yah i gotch yaa... if you know anyone that needs one drop me a pm... its still brand new got it from that autoarizona website or whatever its called...
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TBD
any luck with this job? I'm putting together a list of things to target for May for one weekend in the garage..
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E
We need to have a list of symptoms and parts our members have changed. I think something like the pscho thread but more of organized. It might need more input but i think it could help other members out.
ie.
m103: Fuel accumulator = fixed warm start problem
m103: Fuel Injectors = Might fix misfire.
ie.
m103: Fuel accumulator = fixed warm start problem
m103: Fuel Injectors = Might fix misfire.
I can contribute quite a few
m103: ABS Light stuck on = OVP/OVP Fuse in most cases.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
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From: Connecticut, New Haven
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
This ironically was the very first part I THOUGHT I would replace when I bought my car. Mine has made an annoying ticking racket when at idle since the very beginning (ahh, such fond memories.....). At first I thought it was a bad rocker sound 
Since then I have loosened the top bolt of the tensioner shock and fabricated a small wooden washer to insulate the wobble. Now, its a year later and its back to annoying me. For some reason I have been avoiding to attempt this at all costs as it seems a bit tight in there. I hope the rad won't have to come out....anyhow maybe you will help me overcome my fears! haha I'll be following this thread for sure GEDaggett 
.
Since then I have loosened the top bolt of the tensioner shock and fabricated a small wooden washer to insulate the wobble. Now, its a year later and its back to annoying me. For some reason I have been avoiding to attempt this at all costs as it seems a bit tight in there. I hope the rad won't have to come out....anyhow maybe you will help me overcome my fears! haha I'll be following this thread for sure GEDaggett .
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
This ironically was the very first part I THOUGHT I would replace when I bought my car. Mine has made an annoying ticking racket when at idle since the very beginning (ahh, such fond memories.....). At first I thought it was a bad rocker sound Since then I have loosened the top bolt of the tensioner shock and fabricated a small wooden washer to insulate the wobble. Now, its a year later and its back to annoying me. For some reason I have been avoiding to attempt this at all costs as it seems a bit tight in there. I hope the rad won't have to come out....anyhow maybe you will help me overcome my fears! haha I'll be following this thread for sure GEDaggett .
Since then I have loosened the top bolt of the tensioner shock and fabricated a small wooden washer to insulate the wobble. Now, its a year later and its back to annoying me. For some reason I have been avoiding to attempt this at all costs as it seems a bit tight in there. I hope the rad won't have to come out....anyhow maybe you will help me overcome my fears! haha I'll be following this thread for sure GEDaggett .
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From: Connecticut, New Haven
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
I'll be attempting to replace my tensioner shock tommorow, however, I want to make sure I have the idea correct. I'll have to remove the fan shroud for adequate access. Then (I'm assuming) there are two pulleys that block access to the bolts on the botton end of tensioner shock that need to be removed. Will I need to remove the serpentine belt to take these pullys off? Is there a special procedure to remove the pulleys? After these pulleys are off all I need to do is remove the top and bottom bolts securing the shock and R&R correct? Thanks ahead of time, I would just go for it and ask questions later but I'll be needing my car later in the day so I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Thanks GEDaggett 
Thanks GEDaggett
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
I'll be attempting to replace my tensioner shock tommorow, however, I want to make sure I have the idea correct. I'll have to remove the fan shroud for adequate access. Then (I'm assuming) there are two pulleys that block access to the bolts on the botton end of tensioner shock that need to be removed. Will I need to remove the serpentine belt to take these pullys off? Is there a special procedure to remove the pulleys? After these pulleys are off all I need to do is remove the top and bottom bolts securing the shock and R&R correct? Thanks ahead of time, I would just go for it and ask questions later but I'll be needing my car later in the day so I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Thanks GEDaggett
Thanks GEDaggett Like you said do the shroud and fan removal. After that you need to remove the power steering pump pulley and the the pulley directly to the left of it (sorry I can't remember which one that is) after that you need to remove three bolts that are holding a mounting bracket for the tensioner and rotat it counter clockwise about 10 degrees so you can reach the bottom bot for the tension shock. Remove the bottom bolt (10mm or 11mm I can't remember which) on the tension shock and then the top (13mm). Replace with new one and reassemble. I don't believe you will actually have to remove the belt to do this although I did because I was replacing the entire tensioner. If you check the link to Ps2cho web page with the cd info there are pretty good diagrams for this. Let me know how it went. Remember on the top one you are going into aluminium so don't go crazy with the tightening. Bottom outplus 15 degrees should be fine.
