BJaltima

Wow! Great ideas and pics! I have a 12" Rockford Fosgate sub that I've had forever that I am considering putting in, but I just don't know how I want to do it.

Bigpete123

Just be warned that this method of subwoofer installation requires more work than just cutting a hole and plopping a sub into your back dash. The sub should be designed for an infinite baffle installation method and you have to seal the trunk from the cabin completely.

It's a much much more difficult method of installation than just making an enclosure. Trust me on this one!

ps2cho

Agreed! In hindsight a box would have been a much easier option...

pifcat2

Like this? It's a vintage and rare Zbox...

ohlord

Just need a base box. Try building the champ of all boxes. 1 ten inch beats 2 12's
http://www.decware.com/dbk10.htm
You can unplug it when you need more room in the trunk.
Read his white papers on car audio. Steve is to car audio what www.danielsternlighting is to car lighting.
Nice set up for a non boxed trunk ported well thought out build you put together.Congrats

Way2FastS

Just read this article, you said that the sub has to be specialy desinged for the open airspace. Well I originally was going to put two 10inch subs in my trunk and i went through a bunch of work and made this sick box, and now i come to find out after reading a couple of the forum articles that the gas tank detins most of the sound but yea, i have two of ten inch tsw-252r subs, Do you know where i could find out if it was compatible.

also i have seen some guys mount their subs in the same location but just build a box around the back of the sub, would this be and easier option

Bigpete123

My advice for you is to simply remove the rear speakers and put your box in the trunk. Two 10's with the speaker holes to vent the bass in will be plenty powerful.

There's tons of information online regarding infinite baffle sub installations. I'm warning you that you will have to get into some pretty technical stuff in order to look at the specs of your sub to determine whether it will work. But if you're patient and do the research, you'll get it.

Also understand that you will have to hack the hell out of your rear deck to put 2 10's in it. Furthermore, to do it right, you have to completely seal the trunk from the cabin of the car. All of the holes in the rear deck need to be sealed. The hardest spots to seal are the trunk hinges and the head rest mechanisms, which need to be able to continue to function. You'll have to seal the rear speakers off, which means building actual speaker enclosures for them. Etc Etc. It's a huge amount of work.

Chances are, your subs will not have the specs to handle IB. So... all that said, do you still want to do this? Knowing what I know, having gone through this, the sound quality is fantastic, but the work was not worth it in the end.

Way2FastS

Right now I am still debating if it would be worth doing it, I mean when i first started to read this thread it looked like you guys just cut a hole through the back and wired it up, but i guess to get the right sound you will have to do a ton more than that. But with the subs i would only install one of mine and then try and sell the other one so that it would be a cleaner install, but I am still wondering if i really want to go through all the work to actually do this right. How did you guys seal off the headrest holes so that you could still raise and lower the headrests, because that seems like the hardest thing to do.

Also If i were to just cut the hole in the back and install the sub after mounting an amp and everything, would it sound bad or is it something that you could live with, while not having to worry about blowing up the sub?

Bigpete123

For both the head rest holes and the trunk hinge holes, I built enclosures around them and caulked them off. It was really difficult, and I'm sure it's not perfect. The headrest mechanisms are right by the gas tank so it's nearly impossible to get perfect.

If you're set on the idea of cutting a hole to get the bass in, the next best thing would be to build a sealed enclosure for your sub and hang it from the back deck. You can build a fairly low profile enclosure so that you don't give up much trunk space... you'd just make it shallow and wide.

Somebody on here did that but I can't find the post.

OR... if you don't want to cut a hole but still want bass directly in the cabin, AND you're willing to do some fiberglass work, you could go this route:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ereo-pics.html

I still very highly recommend that you don't go the infinite baffle route. It's a huge job.

Bigpete123

I take that back. Joe (the guy from the other thread I linked) did a box like I described for his other 124:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...eaker-box.html

You can see that a 10" sub doesn't fit in the flat part of the deck, so you're going to need to replace the first aid kit cover with a custom-built cover. But it can look really good. Here's what I did for mine. You can also see the speaker enclosures I had to build since I had to seal the speaker holes for the infinite baffle sub.

Way2FastS

if you do the box behind the rear deck area, are there any holes you would have to fill inbetween the sub and the box

ps2cho

I just bought this for $130. Might put it in my 260E, not sure yet...



Its one 12" JBL sub 275w RMS...I will be running it at 150 rms.