Engine light, Loss of power, strange things happening.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11
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From: Holly, Michigan
95 E320 wagon
Engine light, Loss of power, strange things happening.
We bought this 95 E 320 about a month ago and so far it has had a complete power loss twice.
1st. time in the driveway and after just moment on the charger it started right up.
2nd. time I was turning out onto the highway and all the lights started flashing....A headlight lamp, a break one, the one that is supposed to deal with traction, the engine light too! The breaks felt like they were pulsing and after I slowed to a stop all lights went out with the exception of the one dealing with the traction (asb or something like that). I went back home and turned the car off, Again it was dead! Hubby put it back on the charger and it was like a immediate fix, started right back up like nothing was wrong. Ran good for about 3 days then the engine light came back on again. I'm not a mechanic but I really feel it's something electrical, any ideas???
1st. time in the driveway and after just moment on the charger it started right up.
2nd. time I was turning out onto the highway and all the lights started flashing....A headlight lamp, a break one, the one that is supposed to deal with traction, the engine light too! The breaks felt like they were pulsing and after I slowed to a stop all lights went out with the exception of the one dealing with the traction (asb or something like that). I went back home and turned the car off, Again it was dead! Hubby put it back on the charger and it was like a immediate fix, started right back up like nothing was wrong. Ran good for about 3 days then the engine light came back on again. I'm not a mechanic but I really feel it's something electrical, any ideas???
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Forgot the exact numbers, so just copied this from another site. This should be a quick check. I got your PM, so don't take it to the dealership just yet...A little of your time should save a lot of money. If it is your alternator, I'm sure you'd end up spending upwards of $400 to get it replaced... 
For the most part, when the battery is low and the alternator is weak or dead, the cluster lights will all start to shine. It happened to me and I was kinda confused over it....then 2 days later battery was dead and we couldn't jump start it (note never jump start a 124...but I was desperate).
For the most part, when the battery is low and the alternator is weak or dead, the cluster lights will all start to shine. It happened to me and I was kinda confused over it....then 2 days later battery was dead and we couldn't jump start it (note never jump start a 124...but I was desperate).
A real simple test for alternator uses your new digital multi meter again. With the MM connected to the battery start the engine and turn all of the electrical accessories. With the engine running at road speed the voltmeter should read at least 12.75 volts. That indicates that the alternator will support all of the electrical load and keep the battery at full charge. It would be preferable to see the voltage in the low to mid 13 range however. If the voltage is below 12.75 the alternator is defective or in the case of an older car the separate voltage regulator is bad.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11
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From: Holly, Michigan
95 E320 wagon
ok so it's the prob. the alternator thats causing the problems at hand. They did find I need front breaks ($540.00), possible fuel pump as it's making some noise and defiantly the ETR Valve($940.00) that's what's making the Ck. Engine light come on but according to the SM isn't necessary to replace. DH doesn't like messing with breaks. It seems to be a curse fest for him so I'm having the dealer do them. Question is ....... Where can I get an alternator?? Thats the only thing that really needs to be done besides the breaks. Any Ideas??
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ouch!!! All of those are definitely DIY'able with a little time. They are not difficult. ETR? Do you mean EGR?
Even the brakes are pretty straight forward if you have some basic tools.
My wagon has a little fuel pump noise, but the pump is easy to swap, so the day it dies is the day I will replace it.
Alternator can be bought @ www.autohausarizona.com (they are pretty much the cheapest for anything for our cars online. There is a core charge everywhere you go (you send in your bad unit). Make sure you get the right one. One is 70amp and one is 80amp. Only ONE will fit your car. Get the wrong one and it won't mount up. (I know because I got the wrong one when mine died).
Even the brakes are pretty straight forward if you have some basic tools.
My wagon has a little fuel pump noise, but the pump is easy to swap, so the day it dies is the day I will replace it.
Alternator can be bought @ www.autohausarizona.com (they are pretty much the cheapest for anything for our cars online. There is a core charge everywhere you go (you send in your bad unit). Make sure you get the right one. One is 70amp and one is 80amp. Only ONE will fit your car. Get the wrong one and it won't mount up. (I know because I got the wrong one when mine died).
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11
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From: Holly, Michigan
95 E320 wagon
Thanks Ps2cho,
Your right on the egr thing. The replacement on that at $900 and some odd bucks was CRAZY!! Thanks for the information on the alt. and the place to buy. I'll let you know how it all came out thanks again.
Your right on the egr thing. The replacement on that at $900 and some odd bucks was CRAZY!! Thanks for the information on the alt. and the place to buy. I'll let you know how it all came out thanks again.
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You can definitely swap out the EGR valve easily as well. I believe it just unbolts right into your hand? Don't quote me on it though as my wagon does not have one. I can't see how difficult it can be though as its right on the exhaust manifold.
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'93 300E 2.8
This is most likely not the valve, but it most likely is the tube connecting the valve to the throttle body. This is a common failure on the M104 motor and happens to all of them sooner or later because MB dropped the ball on the design of the EGR system. It is a total kludge. Replacement of that tube is a total PITA job and that's why they want $900 to do it. The tube clogs up with grunge and that's what turns on the check engine light. Not sure where you live, but the car won't pass smog check with the light on. What you can do to get around this in the short term is to clear the codes using the little button on the diagnostic port/connector. That will turn off the light for about 4 or 5 days but the light will come back on. Only way to fix this for reals is to replace the tube or clean it out. Either way the old one has to come off the motor.
Last edited by 73Elsinore; Oct 14, 2009 at 02:02 PM.
