E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Blown Head Gasket allowed oil to corrupt cooling system

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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #126  
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Yes the key all the way before you can crank it, or where your climate control fans kick in. You should hear a 'woosh' sound as they fire up.

Did you check the air hoses like I said? I had this problem a few weeks ago where the car would not start and I found a split hose...Made a thread over at peachparts about it.

Have you cranked, pulled the spark plugs and checked to see if they are wet?
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #127  
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Yep checked those hoses. Ok will do. I've done work on the fuel lines before it shouldn't be a problem for whatever I have to do...
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:27 PM
  #128  
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Check the electrical connection on your EHA valve. If its disconnected, the engine will not start.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #129  
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EHA valve is good. No sound near the fuel system in the rear! Spark plugs are still clean brand new. Hoses are good.

I wasn't able to remove the fuel system shield. I didn't have time today. The fans came on but no sound at all from the fuel system.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #130  
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If no sound the fuel pumps aren't energizing. Try jumping the fuel pump relay (do a search for the pins, I've never done it) and that will eliminate the relay being the problem. If jumping it does not kick on the pumps, then it is probably safe to say it is dead.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #131  
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What materials do I need to do this and perform the jump and where could I get them? It sounds like it would be a wire...

Is that a permanent fix for the relay?

Last edited by loclark757; Jun 2, 2010 at 08:24 PM. Reason: Jumping Fuel Pump
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by loclark757
What materials do I need to do this and perform the jump and where could I get them? It sounds like it would be a wire...

Is that a permanent fix for the relay?
You need about 10 inches of a heavy gage wire to just across the relay contacts. No it is not a permanant fix as the pump will run all the time and kill your battery and the pump.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #133  
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If you are not comfortable jumping pins & wires, you might pickup a "spare" fuel pump relay at the junk yard. Remember, you can locate any junk yard at car-part.com
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #134  
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Ok its a 9 or 10 prong relay. The wire goes into the hole where the prongs would go and then connect to what?

Im out of daylight for the day.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #135  
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I don't have a schematic for they relay circuit, so I can not say. See if you can locate a cheap spare, or order a new one from autohausaz.com
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #136  
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Ok on the bottom of the fuel pump relay the layout for the prong is like this: theres a code next to each prong

31 15 87 87H
50 TD 30 87K 87V TF

The pattern is four prongs plus another six beside it in a row

Which prong hole do I put the wire into? Jump it to where?
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #137  
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If you know that the fuel pumps are not switching on, more than likely its the relay. I would just get a new one from autohausaz or pull one from a salvage yard. Without a schematic, if you jump the wrong pin, you could damage a circuit with an overvoltage surge.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #138  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
As for fuel system parts, or any other parts for that matter, you can cross check the part number. On autohausaz, I'll check the part # for one model, and then see if its the same for another model. You will be surprised to find a lot of cross model compatibility.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:36 PM
  #139  
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I like to consider the 124 chassis as the 57 Chevy of MB cars. When you get a handle on the repair aspects of this automobile, you can make them last for many, many years with a very low average cost per mile of operation. That money stays in your pocket, not in "Da Man's".
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #140  
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Yeah I was just about to post a reply asking whether the M103 2.6L 260E ect... were compatible since they're from the M103 engine family

There's a pick and pull here in town that has a ton of 190E's and 260E's I wonder if they will work on some parts.

A local junkyard has a 1990 300E im keeping my fingers crossed on the compatibility and condition of the relay...
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 05:01 PM
  #141  
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You were right I checked the part number for the fuel pump relay and its the same as a 260E...Im sure its like that across the board. I knew it was since they come from the same engine family.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #142  
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Yes it is the same...No difference in the fuel system at all between the 2.6 and 3.0.

Here is a thread I found. I would jump it first before spending any money. You won't damage anything. You don't even know for sure if the relay is the culprit yet.

Originally Posted by Eric@StarSuzuki
The easiest way to tell if the fuel pump relay is working is to install a temporary jumper at the fuel pump relay socket and see if the fuel pump runs.

You want to connect circuit 30 to circuit 87 at the relay socket. I just checked the service manual and the relay on this thing is a 12 pin monster with all kinds of stuff going on inside it. You want to jumper pin 7 to pin 8. I always use a 15 amp fuse in a fuse holder for my jumper wire. I've got a fuse holder with spades attached to the wires to use on VW's and Volvos and such where it's a simple 4 or 5 pin relay socket.

Not sure what the pins look like on the 300E, but you should be able to spend less than $5 at Radio Shack and come up with a fuse holder, fuse and some appropriate connectors to jam in the relay socket.

When you connect pin 7 to pin 8, you should hear the fuel pump running at that point. If you do, the pump is good, get a new relay. If you don't hear the pump running when those two pins are jumpered, the pump is bad, replace that.

And obviously, if the fuse vaporizes when you put the jumper on, you probably have a short to ground somewhere (unless the pump is shorting out internally). If the fuse blows, disconnect the pump and try another fuse. If it doesn't blow until the pump is connected, it's a short in the pump. If it blows with the pump disconnected, you've got a short in the wiring.

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

PS. Don't drive it with the jumper installed. The job of the fuel pump relay is to shut off the fuel pump when the engine stops running. If you get in an accident and a fuel line is broken from the crash damage, the relay will turn off the pump as soon as the engine runs out of gas and stops. If you just leave the relay jumpered, the pump will run until the battery runs out of juice. This can cause a nasty fire in the event of an accident. And the pump will keep pumping fuel to the fire as long as there's fuel and battery voltage.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124...g-87-300e.html
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 07:13 PM
  #143  
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First it says jump pin 87 to pin 30 that would work I guess. But, what does it mean by pin 7 to pin 8?

This is the same car they're referring to! The guy talked about pin 87 and pin 30 and it worked. I don't want to short my system or risk anything shady. The numbers 7 and 8 are not on my fuel system relay.

Last edited by loclark757; Jun 4, 2010 at 07:37 PM. Reason: 300E Fuel Relay Jump
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 12:46 AM
  #144  
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When I had to jump mine I went straight to the positive of the battery. I would jump it and then go start the car and pull it out when I stopped, until I could fix the relay. I just cant remember what pin it was.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #145  
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My battery cables are switched for some reason. The negative side that goes to the battery is a red cable. The positive side looks really old and decrepit I guess since its been wrapped in jet black electrical tape...

Could this be an issue for the electrical system?
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by loclark757
My battery cables are switched for some reason. The negative side that goes to the battery is a red cable. The positive side looks really old and decrepit I guess since its been wrapped in jet black electrical tape...

Could this be an issue for the electrical system?
This does not sound right. The terminals both ends should have a (+) and (-) on them. Did the battery get put in backwards because the (-) cable usually cannot reach the (+) side as it is not long enough.

Just bridge the 87 and 30 and be done with it! You'll be fine. What's the worst that can happen? You fry the pump? Unlikely...

Pin 7 and 8 might be referring to the actual pins on the relay if you wanted to set up some sort of manual pump switch to override it with the relay in place. Not sure, but that would be my guess. Check the underside of the relay for any #'s that correspond.

Last edited by ps2cho; Jun 5, 2010 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #147  
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You're exactly right Im looking at the factory schematic now and it all makes perfect sense. Pin 7 and pin 8 are #87 and #30. Confusing how the guy changed the numbers.

Yeah but the battery connections work so I'll worry about it later if I have any other problems.

Im going to try the jump today and get some fuel pump relays...

Last edited by loclark757; Jun 5, 2010 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by loclark757
You're exactly right Im looking at the schematic now and it all makes perfect sense. Pin 7 and pin 8 are #87 and #30. Confusing how the guy changed the numbers.

Yeah but the battery connections work so I'll worry about it later if I have any other problems.

Im going to try the jump today and get some fuel pump relays...
No fix the battery first. It will only take 2 seconds. You cannot skip something as important as reversed battery connections LOL. It might even be the issue entirely.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #149  
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All im going to do is put on a black cable instead of it being red. Its going to have the same copper in it... Ok Im going to change the positive cable to a negative black one...
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #150  
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The jump was very easy and turned on the fuel pump but the car is still not firing! Plugs are still brand new and clean. What's my next option?

Fuel is just not reaching the injectors and coming out for some reason!

So this means the fuel pump relay is bad as well. I thought the car would come on since its jumped.

There must be something loose or clogged in the fuel system. Im going to check it out and put the car on ramps tomorrow morning.

Last edited by loclark757; Jun 5, 2010 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Fuel Pump Relay
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