E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Blown Head Gasket allowed oil to corrupt cooling system

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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 09:14 PM
  #76  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
I had a bad thermostat once. The engine would not come up to full operating temp, so I pulled it out and one side of the thermostat support was broken, thus allowing the spring and the valve to be canted to one side. The result was a tstat jammed half way open. They are cheap enough, I'd put a new one in. If the water pump is bad, it will leak. In my experience, I keep the waterpump in until it begins to leak. Also, use the MB coolant. It is Ph neutral, and does not react with any plastic parts in the cooling system.
However, with the head off, its much easier to replace, and they don't cost a heck of a lot, plus you'll have piece of mind that its new.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 09:28 PM
  #77  
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1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
What do you they mean when the thermostat is called different degree's?

Like the one on Autohausaz is an 87 degree thermostat...
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #78  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
87 degree Celsius is the temp. the tstat will open to keep your engine at a safe average operating temperature. It will open & close to maintain an approximate 87 degree C engine temp. There are others available, but raising or lowering the engine temp. (depending where in the world you live, altitude, avg. daily temperature, etc.) will effect the efficiency of the engine. I live in Dallas where our temps vary from 25 degree F in winter, to 110 F in summer. I have always used 87 C tstats, and have never had a problem with the engine overheating.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #79  
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You do not need the washers for the head bolts. The updated ones do not require it as it has a washer built in.

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%2...03/01-4050.pdf
Page 2 for reference.

I run 87c Tstat's in both mine. Remember running an engine too cold will make a rich running scenario.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 05:49 AM
  #80  
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Ok what would be the next best one? We have extremely high heat here in the summer plus the humidity...

Damn im confused now. I ordered the stuff from Autohausaz got the bolts and washers. There were washers on the head when I took the bolts out.

So I guess im just going to compare the new ones to the olds and go by the different sizes accordingly. I do know that there are A and B sized bolts that differ. Just have to wait and see...

I want to do my tstat so if I have to I'll just exchange the washers for the tstat...
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #81  
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I said about bolts above. You cannot use the washers. It is either use style A /w washers, or style B without. They should not be combined. Read the PDF on it.

If your system is running right the 87c should be fine.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #82  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
The 87 C should be fine for VA climate. Also, note that the torque specs on the Victor Reinz pkg. are indicated in NM, not ft.lbs.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #83  
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Thanks wagmar.

Got the head back today. Waitin on some gaskets for the radiator.

I got some pics... Can't upload them I'll have to try a friends computer later...

The head looks clean except for some of the valves have a little carbon left in the center...

As far as I know its ready to go back on.

One of the valves is sticking out and all the others are flush against the head. Is that the sequence for it to start back up?
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #84  
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Make sure the crankshaft pointer is at 0 degrees. That is TDC for the lower end. The timing alignment marks at the front of the cam should be where they were when you removed the head. Check the pictures ps2cho has. His is a good example.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 08:29 PM
  #85  
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1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
I zipped tied the cam sprocket to the timing chain. So it should be good as long as it fits into sprocket...

Fitting into the cam sprocket would mean its aligned since I never took the timing chain off the cam sprocket...

Last edited by loclark757; Apr 26, 2010 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Is this correct...
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #86  
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On re-assembly, if the timing marks line up, then you should be ok.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 09:24 PM
  #87  
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Which way do I turn the crankshaft to set TDC? Would that be clockwise...

Are the pistons numbered from the back to the front of the car with one being towards the firewall.

Sorry for the stupid questions!!!
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #88  
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Check out the FSM:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%2...03/01-4150.pdf

Step 21 onwards goes through it. I followed this in conjunction with the Haynes manual and some common sense.
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #89  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
Clockwise only. When #1 piston is TDC, #6 (at the firewall) is at TDC. The pointer on the crank should point to 0 degrees. Check ps2cho's photos. Yours should look like his.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:05 PM
  #90  
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Ok I got all of my parts now. Just didn't get the Thermostat or water pump neck... Going to try to return the head bolt washers in exchange...

What type of sealer should I use on the front cover? Which kind is the best. Permatex, Loctite etc.

Where do I get the hose that hooks to the back of the Cylinder Head? Couldn't find it on Autohaus...

Last edited by loclark757; May 3, 2010 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Which sealer? & Hose that attaches to rear of Head
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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #91  
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If there is a Leslie's pool supply close by, buy some "spa lube" silicone. I use it on all of the hoses & fitings for re-assembly. It keeps the rubber pliable and makes them easy to remove the next time you need to do it. Plus it makes a water tight seal at the point of connection.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #92  
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Whats the word on this hose that attaches to the cylinder head? part number 124 832 3094 C-????
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Old May 3, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #93  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
Put spa lube on both ends of that short hose. Its a tight fit, and the spa lube will stop any coolant migration that may occur.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 05:37 PM
  #94  
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Ok its all good to go set piston #1 to TDC.

The valve right above piston #1 is sticking out. Is this ok? Should it be like this...
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Old May 4, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #95  
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Check that your timing marks on the cam are lined up, as shown in ps2cho's photos. With the marks aligned, and #1 piston set at TDC, you should be OK to proceed with reassembly.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #96  
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1991 300e, 1989 300e
The sealer to use on the front cover is Mercedes Benz part #
A 003-989-98-20-10 surface sealing compound. I purchased the product at the MB dealership. It is black in color, and costs about $30.00 for the tube, and you will use just a small portion of it. Deposit a bead & spread thinly on the surface of the part with a putty knife. Make sure both surfaces are clean. I used acetone for surface prep. As for the hose, try partsgeek.com, I think you will find it there.

Last edited by wagmar; May 4, 2010 at 07:00 PM. Reason: additional info.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 06:48 PM
  #97  
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What about as far as a brush for the threads can't find one and can't wait for one...

The guy at autozone told me to get a screw the same size as the head bolt and grind 4 notches in it... Insert it into the threads and the threads will clean themselves

I want them to be clean. What could I use? Im about to try an old toothbrush and maybe shape it...
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Old May 5, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #98  
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I used compressed air (90 psi) to blow out the thread holes. All of my bolts went in w/o a hitch. Use air to blow out all debris anywhere on the head, block & mating surfaces.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 04:15 PM
  #99  
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1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
Just got my oil filter wrench in the mail gonna use it for both of my 124's...

Today im going to clean the threads and try an old trick.

I got some permatex from autozone will that work for the front cover and valve cover?

Is there a valve cover gasket that I can get and whats the part number for it.

Or should I get the MB sealer from the dealership...

Last edited by loclark757; May 8, 2010 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Sealer
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Old May 26, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #100  
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Ok everything is good to go Im going to re-assemble everything this weekend!

After Its put back together is there anything special that I need to do in order to get it to fire up properly?

What's up with resistor and non-resistor spark plugs? I ordered some H8DC Bosch and im still waiting for them to get here... Will some resistor HR9DC's work for the time being?

Last edited by loclark757; May 26, 2010 at 04:36 PM. Reason: spark plugs
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