Blown Head Gasket allowed oil to corrupt cooling system
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Make sure all alignment marks are in place, where they should be. Mine fired up on first turn. I left the tstat out, so that the head gasket would saturate w/coolant w/out pressure. After a brief warm up, I let it cool down and re-installed tstat. I had no leaks anywhere. Make sure you put a dab of sealant on each side of the upper timing cover seal. As for plugs, I went to Wal-Mart and bought the Bosch 4304 Platinum II. They work fine.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
When you say leave out the tstat you mean re assemble the top with the tstat out turn on the car and then re instal the tstat...
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Correct. That relieves back pressure stress on the new head gasket. By doing this, the gasket material is allowed to saturate w/coolant & expand without the back pres. caused by the tstat. Let the engine run for 10 min. or so, then install the tstat after the engine cools down.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
But I still have to clean the cooling system first! A couple hoses will not be replaced. Im sure theres oil gunk in the cooling system. How do clean that out and get a good seal on my head gasket at the same time...
How could I test my tstat to know if its good or not?
How could I test my tstat to know if its good or not?
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
But I still have to clean the cooling system first! A couple hoses will not be replaced. Im sure theres oil gunk in the cooling system. How do clean that out and get a good seal on my head gasket at the same time...
How could I test my tstat to know if its good or not?
How could I test my tstat to know if its good or not?
If the coolant is oil free, first drain the radiator by opening the valve counter clockwise on the bottom of the radiator and let it drain out. Next, drain the block. Do this by opening the bleeder valve mounted on the right side of the engine block just underneath the exhaust manifold near cyl.#5. It looks like a giant brake caliper bleeder valve. Open (unscrew) and allow coolant to drain. When the head is off, blow out all passageways with 90 psi air from your handy-dandy portable air compressor you can buy at Home depot or Harbor Freight, Northern Tools, etc. Blow out the heater hoses w/air.
Make a good visual inspection of your tstat. If its not broken and you can move the valve spring up and down, its probably OK.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
There was oil in the system. It came out like chocolate milk.
I replaced the overflow tank. Since there was oil in the coolant what should I do?
I replaced the overflow tank. Since there was oil in the coolant what should I do?
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Drain the block. The head is clean. You need to flush the heater core & radiator. Run fresh water through the input side of the heater. Disconnect the hoses from the output side of the heater, making sure you can adequately drain the output of the heater core by having an adequate drain hose from the right side of the heater core. Run fresh water through the radiator. This step is only a primary flush, and can be done before you get started. When you have everything back together, MB makes a flush solution (dealer purchase) that you should use. Follow the instructions. That solution should remove any residual oil in the system. Drain & rinse w/fresh water. Now add the MB brand coolant at a 50/50 mix. Your system is now factory fresh.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
I already had my radiator cleaned and new gaskets installed...
You mean turn the car on to clean the heater core?
You mean turn the car on to clean the heater core?
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
That would be the hose in the rear up against the wall? My old mb mechanic put a valve on that hose line. Open valve means the ac is running and the valve closed means the heater is on.
I think it was for a conversion or something...
I just got some H9DC0 spark plugs from the dealership. They said that is what Mercedes recommends. The parts guy said that using non-resistor plugs would be for much older cars.
(The new plugs look exactly like the old ones)
My old mb mechanic explicitly said do not use resistor plugs because they're too hot... I don't think I have a choice now
I think it was for a conversion or something...
I just got some H9DC0 spark plugs from the dealership. They said that is what Mercedes recommends. The parts guy said that using non-resistor plugs would be for much older cars.
(The new plugs look exactly like the old ones)
My old mb mechanic explicitly said do not use resistor plugs because they're too hot... I don't think I have a choice now
Last edited by loclark757; May 27, 2010 at 05:54 PM. Reason: plugs
Member
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
That is the line. Your mechanic probably put that valve on because the valve which is immediately downstream from it was malfunctioning. That is the heater control valve. You should get a "new" one at the salvage yard, and return to the factory set up.
As for plugs, the H9DCOs are perfect. Clean the contacts on the dist.cap & polish up the rotor.
As for plugs, the H9DCOs are perfect. Clean the contacts on the dist.cap & polish up the rotor.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
Could that have had something to do with my system going to crap?
I don't know what the configuration looks like. Anyone know it for the heater control valve on a 1988 300E?
I kind of have an idea. It should be located next to the coolant expansion tank? But theres just one hose there with another valve on it like on the back of the head.
I don't know what the configuration looks like. Anyone know it for the heater control valve on a 1988 300E?
I kind of have an idea. It should be located next to the coolant expansion tank? But theres just one hose there with another valve on it like on the back of the head.
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Its located close to the battery, and has a electrical connection mounted on top. The other pump is the booster pump just below the overflow tank. Disconnect all of the lines and flush them out with water or compressed air.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
Ok its all put together! It went pretty well...
The car would not turn on completely. Its getting spark and sounds extremely close to starting but its just not firing.
Any suggestions...
The car would not turn on completely. Its getting spark and sounds extremely close to starting but its just not firing.
Any suggestions...
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
If your timing marks were aligned properly, then timing is not an issue (with crank position at 0 degrees, alignment marks on cam tower & cam aligned). Make sure you have adequate fuel pressure & supply. Double check that spark plug wires are connected to corresponding posts on the dist. cap. Other than that, I'm stumped. Mine fired on the first turn of the starter.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
How do I increase the fuel pressure? On the plug wires do they mean that piston one is plug one and vice versa?
On the plastic wire holder I guess the sequence was written on there...
On the plastic wire holder I guess the sequence was written on there...
Member
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Fuel pressure is not user-adjustable. Pressure is established by the fuel pump, and maintained by the regulator modules. If it worked before dis assembly, it probably has not changed. The spark plug wire schematic is printed on the dist. cap cover. The other print is the spark firing order.
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Make sure your crankshaft position sensor (located close to the crankshaft balancer on the front of the engine) is full connected. A failed crank position sensor can prevent start up.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
That's not it. The car did sit in the driveway for about 3-4 months until this point...
Yesterday was the first time I've tried to start it since it came off the tow truck.
Yesterday was the first time I've tried to start it since it came off the tow truck.
Member
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
Check to see if the fuel pumps activate when you turn the key to "on" position. You should be able to hear them. If the fuel pumps won't turn on, then you may have a bad fuel pump relay. Replace the fuel filter if you don't know how old it is.
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From: VA
1988 300E, 1994 E320, 1999 ML 320, 2002 SLK 32 AMG -SOLD-, ML 350SE -REPOSSESED-
Do you mean the middle "On" position or all the way on...
I tried it to the middle on position and got no sound from anywhere usually I get sound or a light vibration from the car which im guessing are the fuel pumps.
I tried it to the middle on position and got no sound from anywhere usually I get sound or a light vibration from the car which im guessing are the fuel pumps.
Last edited by loclark757; Jun 2, 2010 at 06:17 AM. Reason: Which key position
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From: Dallas, TX
1991 300e, 1989 300e
With the key in full "on" position, all status lights will be on, and the pumps prime the system. They should make a light vibrating sound from under the car. Pumps are mounted to the underbody, just beneath the right rear passenger seat area.
