My 1987 300E has rust on it on both front fenders, both rear fenders, driver side door. Some of it has rusted through. There's also all kinds of small scratches and tiny dings all over the car. I am surprised that it deteriorated so much since I bought it but then it has never been parked in a garage in the almost 25 years that I have owned it here in Toronto, Canada. I keep maintaining mechanically on a regular basis but have let the exterior body of the car go a bit as you can see. I do want to keep driving this car and have recently had a number of items repaired (new alternator, new flex discs, new driveshaft central carrier, new hydraulic driver's side engine support, new battery, etc).

I just wanted to get some advice on bringing back the body to what it once was. From the looks of these rust spots is this something I can repair myself? Should I just acquire some used exterior body panels, which likely won't be the same colour, but that are in good shape and install them myself and then bring the car to a paint shop to have it entirely painted? Where would I get these parts? I see some are available online from parts warehouses but is that the best route or should I go to a car junkyard in the area (I am in Toronto, Canada) and see what I can salvage there?

 

Oh the joys of living in the great white north. That is rust you can see. I hate to see what its like under the car. I had a 420sel that had rust in similar spots that I ended up junking because of the rust issues beneath the car. The biggest concern I see with this car is the rust damage to the rocker panels and front jack point areas. It looks pretty bad. Putting money into body repairs would push the cost well above the market value. So unless you have great sentimental value for this car I would drive it as is, put money into small repairs and junk it once something big breaks.

 

I hate to say it, but i'm on the same page as london380sl. You could source a rust free example too, and keep this one after as a parts car. The salvageability of that depends on the condition of the bottom of the car.

 

++1 to both those suggestions mate.

Unfortunately you guys living in the snowy regions of the world make your rides drive through salted roads daily.

Once rusts starts it's like the dreaded "C" - you may think you have got it all but you can bet your bottom dollar there's more you just can;t see it.

Quite honestly I would be searching for an inexpensive replacement, maybe you might luck out on one with a blown motor that you can get for next to nothing, and use your existing car as a source for the good running gear.

If it was a rare car by all means lets the games begin (Stay ahead of the Rust) but not really worth it IMO

 

I see what you guys are saying. The only part that is really rusted through badly in two places is that right front panel. I guess no harm in trying to find a panel like that in the same colour at a scrap car lot right? It wouldn't cost much and I could replace it myself. The other areas of rust are not that extensive (viewing from the outside at least!).

But, I guess the other problem you are pointing out is that there could be a lot of rust under the car and in other areas I cannot see. What I am going to do is to have my mechanic take a look at it and let me know.

I don't have any sentimental attachment to this car (in fact I dislike the black interior now) but I like that I have been able to drive this same car for almost 25 years (Aug 7, 2012 marks 25 years). I only drive 8,000 km (5,000 m) per year because I don't use it to get to work anymore and I ride my bike almost all the time as my main form of transportation (yes even through the winter here in Toronto). Hence I don't really want to invest anything in another car. If I spend $2,000/yr in repairs, that plus my insurance, the gas I use and my plates equals about $4,000/yr and that's one day of driving per week if I rent a car from Zipcar and I have been spening about $2,000/yr or less for repairs for quite a while now. I guess that also means that if I could get another Mercedes in better condition and with less or equal mileage (mine is now at 243,000 km/151,000 m) for $2,000 or less I should really do that and use my existing car for parts. Is my math correct?

I guess what I'll do is just see if I can get a side panel or two to replace the rusted ones and just drive the thing into the ground in the interim unless I need some drastic set of repairs that put me way over the $2,000 mark for the year and in that case I'll junk the car.

I also wonder, though, why I see other Mercedes of my vintage in Toronto in way better condition. Could not having parked it in a garage all these years made such a difference. I thought it was better not to park it in a garage because the car then doesn't go through freeze-warm cycles. (If I ever had a garage I would have used it, btw).

 

I used to live in the UK and the rust problems were horrific. In your shoes, I would look around for another rust-free (from the south USA?) car exactly the same as your rotting example and pension the rusty one off for spares.

Why? Because I remember how easily rust-cure mounts up into the 1000s of Euro with no guarantee of success.

Just my 2c worth.

RayH

 

I was also surprised at the amount of rust you had as 124's seemed to be pretty rust resist cars. Do you do a lot of expressway driving in this car?

 

For the first 3 years I owned it I drove to work on the expressway about 30km each way but after that no.

 

Grew up near Toronto in the 60's and 70's - cars in that environment had rust perforations after only three years.
Any car driven around Ontario for 25 years is bound to riddled with Cancer.

 

I guess that's the case, but, oddy, I do see many 1987 300E's on the road that have no visible rust damage. I wonder how that is possible. Were they repainted? Touched up as the rust occurred (not sure if that arrests the rust migration) Brought from a warmer clime?

 

It's all on how the car is treated. I live on the east coast now, but am from toronto and not everything is riddled with rust, it's all on how the car was stored. I have a perfect 90' w124 91 e30 84 volvo 245 that have zero rust. the e30 took some floor welding, but the body was good. On the flip side, I had to get warranty on my S4 because of perforation rust on the trunk and back driver door (replaced em free though!)

Get your car up on a hoist and ask your mechanic what he thinks, or get pictures and post em up here, we can *likely* tell you.

I grew up in london, and the rust is so bad in england because they salt the hell out of their roads, and nobody undercoats. Canadian cars that are cared for are usually undercoated.

 

Cars these days - and the 80's for that matter, are much better. Cars on the Left Coast, even back then, fared way better.
I'm sure they are still salting the roads in TO. In fact, a friend with an SLK near Toronto, was told by his mechanic that there is some chemical used now. It stays liquid and splashes up into every nook and cranny, esp. behind cladding and plastic inner fenders.

 

The W124 has outlasted the W210 that replaced it by 3x. The W210 was the worst car MB ever made. Unbeleivable rust problems after just 2 or 3 years!!!!
You will see a lot more W124's on the road, even in T.O. than W210.
It's just an all round better car, in every way.
Your 300E is finished....it's scrap....shot it and put it out of it's misery.
Now, start looking in the US for a good E320 94/95 with the M104 engine. Even a late 93 300E marked 2.8....that is the M104 engine.
These cars come into Canada with NO hassels 'cause they are over 15 years old.
Then, when you find a good one and bring it home, rust proof it ! Use Krown or Corrosion Free (not the others) but do it every year. It will stop the rust.
Look inside the engine compartment under the headlights...especially the drive side on. That is a bad area for rust to hide.
Botton of the doors and under the rubber moulding along the top of the front doors. Pull it back and look and if it has a little run some Krown oil under there, (buy some and have it handy at home) and in the seal along the bottom of the doors.
Soak it.
Also, have a close look arounf the moon roof...especially the corners...before you buy. This is bad bad rust that once it starts is almost impossible to stop.
Along the doors on top of the side cladding. Just pour it in there. The clips that hold it on rub and rust.
Hey, just look at your 300E...it has it in ALL the classic spots.
Just check those same spots in any car you are looking at...or have an online seller send you picturers.
When you do have it sprayed just make sure they do a "complete" job. Up inside and behind the gas tank, over the drive shaft. Soak the brake lines that run to the back. Inside the doors. You have to make sure they cover everything...or you'll be wasteing your money. And they will try to do a quick slap-dab job if they think they can get away with it.
Nothing wrong with the product....just make sure the guys who put it on do it right.

 

Thanks for your useful input. Exactly how does one from Toronto go about finding such a car in the US? Scour craigslist ads and how far down south should the city be in the US so that the car doesn't have rust? Given I can't just head over to look at the car like some local US buyers might I am wondering if a seller would bother to send me pics as detailed as I require. And then, if I do travel to see the car and it's not up to par then I've spent $500 for the cost of a plane ticket for nothing.

So, I am very curious how Canadians facilitate buying a decent US-based used Mercedes as you suggest. Also, what should one typically pay for a 1994/5 e320 at various mileage-on-the-car points?

 

It is a leap of faith but you have to use a little common sense and consider the price vs. the car and any potential problems. Ask the right questions and if it's an Ebay purchase look at FB and email other people he has dealt with. Of course, you can look on this forum, or others, for people looking to sell a W124. Usually you can get a pretty good feel for the individual form their posts and how long they have been on the forum.
Remember that the main reason you are buying online is to find a good rust free original body. Anything else mechanical can be fixed or replaced but if the body is rusted out the car is toast.
Whats a good rust free body worth?
So, common sense and limited how much you are willing to spend with the assumption there will be mechanical issues.
I bought a 93 400E on ebay from Florida 3 years ago for $1200 + 800 to ship it. When it got here the transmission was shot and the paint was sunburnt. Car was silver and prone to that. I spent $1500 getting everything fixed and have a great car which my sister still drives and loves.
But I did ALL the work.
Got a good used tranny from a wrecker and put it then painted the car.
It's a treasure hunt.
I also bought a 92 400E the same way. It was in Chicago. Flew down and drove it back the same day...to Hamilton. Paid $2000. Bought it from a wholesaler there who got it in a group he bought from a local dealer.
He knew nothing about it.
I researched it when I got home using the VIN, found the original owner who bought it new and he had ALL the service records from day one...all Mercedes service. The year before he spent $3800 replacing the evap. on the A/C....which, by the way, is a real problem on ALL the W124's. If any car you buy doesn't have air working then you have to assume the evaporator is leaking. It can be repaired if you have the time and place to do it. Parts are avaialble.....but it will take 20 + hours if you have never done one. HUGE job!
On the M104 engines, more so than M103 but them too, the head gaskets fail. This is also something you need to expect and be prepared to fix...as well as the wiring harness.
All these things add up so consider that in the offer and how much you want the car.
In my case, I think they are great, but with issues, all of which can be dealt with...but not RUST.
A little rust on the front fenders is no biggy 'cause you buy new fenders. But around the windows (front and rear) or around the moon roof..walk away.