How To: Replace bad foam intake pipes... with metal ones
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Joined: Aug 2012
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1992 400E
How To: Replace bad foam intake pipes... with metal ones
The intake pipes on my project car looked like this...
So I went to Home Depot and paid $10 for this..
Pull the connectors off of each end of your foam piping...
Put one end inside of the headlight side connector and it will kind of "screw" into the connector. Next, push the connector back on the headlight intake part. It will look like this at this point.
Bend the pipe up to the engine intake part and cut about 2.5" past the length you actually need to have a tight fit inside of the other connector. This stuff can be cut between seams with scissors or snips. After you cut it, push it inside the other connector that you pulled off of the engine side of the foam pipe and bend the pipe in such a way that allows you to push it on the engine intake side and it should look like this at this point and the extra length holds it in tight. No need for tape, although you could aplly a small amount of silicone inside the connectors before pushing the metal in if you are paranoid
Only downside is can absorb some heat and I could not find it in black.
Worth a shot and it only costs $10 and took ten minutes
Finally, throw out the garbage!!
So I went to Home Depot and paid $10 for this..
Pull the connectors off of each end of your foam piping...
Put one end inside of the headlight side connector and it will kind of "screw" into the connector. Next, push the connector back on the headlight intake part. It will look like this at this point.
Bend the pipe up to the engine intake part and cut about 2.5" past the length you actually need to have a tight fit inside of the other connector. This stuff can be cut between seams with scissors or snips. After you cut it, push it inside the other connector that you pulled off of the engine side of the foam pipe and bend the pipe in such a way that allows you to push it on the engine intake side and it should look like this at this point and the extra length holds it in tight. No need for tape, although you could aplly a small amount of silicone inside the connectors before pushing the metal in if you are paranoid
Only downside is can absorb some heat and I could not find it in black.Worth a shot and it only costs $10 and took ten minutes
Finally, throw out the garbage!!
Last edited by w124v8; Sep 5, 2012 at 12:47 AM. Reason: a
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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1992 400E
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 176
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From: So. Cal.
97R129-01W163-94E320-93500E
Shouldn't it be padded to prevent engine heat from preheating the air going to the engine.
Did you noticed any change in your car's performance? fuel consumption?
It's a neat alternative; just curious about its effect.
Did you noticed any change in your car's performance? fuel consumption?
It's a neat alternative; just curious about its effect.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 30
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1992 400E
To get an accurate result one would have to record the temps from the car while air was moving through it as well. The delta T would be huge from moving and say a car that has been shut off for 10 minutes. The piping will be much hotter in a car that is not running or moving air through the pipes because once the engine is shut off it will absorb more thermal energy from any source it can just because it is cooler than the max temp it can absorb. Just how most metals act around heat. Good enough for Tom Nelson it's good enough for me.
Last edited by w124v8; Sep 6, 2012 at 10:18 PM. Reason: add
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1992 400E
Last edited by w124v8; Sep 6, 2012 at 10:17 PM. Reason: aa
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Yeah, I did my entire intake length in the r4 foam/foil, and then taped it over with heat-tape for HVAC ducting. I did the same for my entire airbox assembly as well.
Did it make a difference? Physics says yes, butt dyno says meh.
Did it make a difference? Physics says yes, butt dyno says meh.
