Clicking from engine
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Middlefield, CT
1994 E320
Clicking from engine
I'm aware of the common problem of the hydraulic lifters clicking on cold engine start-up. However, I hear clicking from my engine at normal operating temp. Could it be the lifters? Also, as stupid as it may sound, would someone remind of the function of the lifters? Is the clicking a big problem, or can it go on for a while?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 302
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From: Salem, OR
08 Lexus GS350 AWD. 08 Lexus RX350 AWD - wife's. 94 MBZ E320 - still have it.
I don't think your engine even has hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters compesate automaticly the space between the rockers and the valves or the cam shaft. On your engine you can adjust that gap manually, using a filler gauge. It's fairly simple procedure. I used to have an '86 300E, and after about 120K the valves started clicking. The valve gap ajustment fixed the problem.
Remember, it has to be done on a cold engine.
Good luck, mister.
Arnie
Remember, it has to be done on a cold engine.
Good luck, mister.
Arnie
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Germany
'00 S320 W220, '98 A160 W168/ sold in 2005 '86 260 E W124 '90 260E W124
the '88 W124 260 E has hydraulic lifters, but if the are responsible for the noise it should go away after the engine has warmed up.
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From: Khalifonia.
4 wheeled car.
On my dad's 2000 E320 W210, the lifter were ticking. I poured out 1 quart of engine oil and replaced it with 1 quart of ATF (tranny fluid). Yes, tranny fluid in the engine compartment.
It acts as a detergent. Drove it 500 miles, then changed the oil, and no more sound!
MARK CUMMINS taught me the trick
It acts as a detergent. Drove it 500 miles, then changed the oil, and no more sound!
MARK CUMMINS taught me the trick
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 595
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From: Middlefield, CT
1994 E320
The clicking is still going, even at operating temp. So would anyone still suspect the lifters? Is adjusting the valve gap an easy procedure? What kinds of tools do I need?
Also, does prolonged clicking cause any damage to the valve train?
Also, does prolonged clicking cause any damage to the valve train?
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Aridzona
'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
Hi Jer,
The noise you describe could be caused by numerous things, some of which are:
- Worn valve guides
- Worn vavle seats
- Normal injector popoff (They are mechanical and can be heard clicking)
- Worn bearing (water pump, fan, etc)
I would say that at 220k+ on the odo you probably have gotten the expected life out of this head (provided you have not replaced it previously). I recently changed the head on my '87 300E because the head gasket had leaked oil into the coolant. At the time I replaced the head because it was close enough to the magical 200k mark that my MB buddies tell me it should last.
BUT FIRST! If you are even thinking about replacing the head or whatever else, get a mechanics' stethoscope and isolate the noise if you can. Additionally, it would be a good idea have compression and leakdown tests performed to determine the health of the valvetrain and rings.
My understading of not correcting valve tap/tick is that it will eventually get so bad that you will start burning large quantities of oil (read smokescreen). Outside of that, I have no idea. . . just imagine things rattling around until something awful happens.
By the way, if you are up to changing the head yourself, I was able to do it for less than $1,000 including a rebuilt head.
-D
The noise you describe could be caused by numerous things, some of which are:
- Worn valve guides
- Worn vavle seats
- Normal injector popoff (They are mechanical and can be heard clicking)
- Worn bearing (water pump, fan, etc)
I would say that at 220k+ on the odo you probably have gotten the expected life out of this head (provided you have not replaced it previously). I recently changed the head on my '87 300E because the head gasket had leaked oil into the coolant. At the time I replaced the head because it was close enough to the magical 200k mark that my MB buddies tell me it should last.
BUT FIRST! If you are even thinking about replacing the head or whatever else, get a mechanics' stethoscope and isolate the noise if you can. Additionally, it would be a good idea have compression and leakdown tests performed to determine the health of the valvetrain and rings.
My understading of not correcting valve tap/tick is that it will eventually get so bad that you will start burning large quantities of oil (read smokescreen). Outside of that, I have no idea. . . just imagine things rattling around until something awful happens.
By the way, if you are up to changing the head yourself, I was able to do it for less than $1,000 including a rebuilt head.
-D
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Middlefield, CT
1994 E320
Thanks for the advice. The water pump was replaced I few weeks ago, so that's not the problem. The ticking comes from the back of the engine (towards the firewall) from under the valve cover. I hope the head is still good. I really don't want to spend tons of money on a rebuilt one.
When you replaced the head on your 300E, did you get a rebuilt head or have a machine shop rebuild your existing one? Does that include the valve train?
When you replaced the head on your 300E, did you get a rebuilt head or have a machine shop rebuild your existing one? Does that include the valve train?
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Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Aridzona
'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
I bought a rebuilt head off of eBay from a merchant I had done business with previously. It included new valves/seats as needed and all new seals, the head was stripped, pressure tested and painted. I used my rocker assemblies, camshaft and sensors.
Unless you or the previous owner abused the engine, I would think the lifters would still be good. If there is sludge or a significant layer of varnish inside the valve cover and on top of the head, your lifters could need replacement.
If the ticking is your lifters sticking and they do not respond to the tranny fluid trick, replacing them can be quite frustrating for the do-it-yourselfer, there are shims of various thickness on top and bottom of the M103 lifter and they need to be "setup" so that the total lifter height is within the specified range.
You might do well just taking it to a local MB shop to get their opinion, at least then you would have another data point.
I had a 380SE with ticking valves that I drove for 20,000 miles until I sold it. So you likely have some time to investigate.
-D
Unless you or the previous owner abused the engine, I would think the lifters would still be good. If there is sludge or a significant layer of varnish inside the valve cover and on top of the head, your lifters could need replacement.
If the ticking is your lifters sticking and they do not respond to the tranny fluid trick, replacing them can be quite frustrating for the do-it-yourselfer, there are shims of various thickness on top and bottom of the M103 lifter and they need to be "setup" so that the total lifter height is within the specified range.
You might do well just taking it to a local MB shop to get their opinion, at least then you would have another data point.
I had a 380SE with ticking valves that I drove for 20,000 miles until I sold it. So you likely have some time to investigate.
-D
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 595
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From: Middlefield, CT
1994 E320
I've taken good care of the engine. Done frequent oil changes with Mobil 1. I'm going to take the car to my mechanic soon to have them take a look at the new muffler they installed, at which time I'll have them look at the valves.
