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Newbie Oil Change ?

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Old May 17, 2005 | 04:36 PM
  #1  
wickeddragon's Avatar
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Newbie Oil Change ?

Hi everybody

I drive a 2000 E320 4matic w/ about 69K on it. I am going to try to do the oil change myself for the 1st time and would like to know if anyone has a detailed description of what to do or know where I can get a detailed description of what to do? I have been searching the forums, but cannot find a good description to work off. Thanks for the help.

New guy
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Old May 17, 2005 | 06:05 PM
  #2  
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X72
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this is a good description if you want to use a topsider.
http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/OilFilter2

you can search the website for other DIY info.

you can also drain the oil from the drain plug, but from what i have read, the topsider is more complete than putting the car on ramps because of the placement of the drain plug.

i have a W211, and i have drained the oil from the drain plug. the drain plug is not in the same position as on the W210. if you are going to use the drain plug, recommend you pick up a crush washer and do not overtorque the drain plug.
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Old May 17, 2005 | 06:42 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Thumbs up There's lots of posts

on this forum and at the benzworld forum, too.

I'm a "drainer" but you actually want to lift the driver's side of the E320, not the whole front if you do this. That will drain it all. The other post is right, you want to change the washer on the drain plug. You'll have to remove 4 (or is it 6?) small bolts to pull the bottom airflow cover off the car, and then you'll easily locate the drain bolt and oil pan.

You're draining 8.5 quarts, so be sure your pan is large enough (lots of them are only 8...).

Be sure to use the proper oil: Mobil1 0W-40 (Euro spec) or any synthetic that meets 229.3 and 229.5 MBZ specs. You can find this in auto parts stores and most WalMarts carry this weight.

You also need to get the fleece oil filter kit (not just an element, you'll want the new O-rings); it's specified for use with the sythetics. For the best price, order on-line: You can get the filter kit for about $14 at autohausaz.com or autopartswarehouse.com and the plug gasket is like 30 cents or something.

Lastly, whether you drain or suck, you need the proper oil filter wrench. Don't try a universal type or you're likely to damage the cover, and then life will suck. Personally I prefer the composite-style cap wrench (rather than metal); it will last as long as you have the car and it won't ever damage the filter cover. You can get them at Checker/Shucks/Kragen (I think it's penzzoil brand) for $5 and they have a little booklet to be sure you get the correct one (it's based on diameter and number of flutes).

Once you've put the drain plug back in (or finished sucking it out), you can just pour 8.5 quarts of 0-40 right down the oil filter hole before you put that assembly back in. Be sure to replace each of the o-rings (I think there are four total) on the filter assembly. The filter itself just slides off the assembly. When you reinsert the filter assembly, use your cap wrench and torque to 18 ft.-lbs.

Not terribly difficult, and very satisfying when you're done.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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Old May 17, 2005 | 10:05 PM
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The only thing I would add is to only torque the drain plug to 18 lb/ft with the new crush washer. This IS a steel plug that is threaded into an aluminum sump so you certainly don't want to strip the threads.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #5  
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things with and without wheels
hello everybody , I recently changed oil on my 210 and i have a question pertaining the 4 o-rings. I only saw 3 o-rings on the filter assembly ,where does the 4th one go?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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wow, thanks everybody for your input, I can't wait to get the sense of satisfaction when i attempt this myself next week
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Old May 18, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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X72
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Please let us know how it goes for you wickeddragon.

The only thing I would add is for you never to get under a car supported by a jack only.

I know Gregs210 didn't say that in his post, but he was not specific about how to lift the drivers side. Gregs210's post was excellent in my opinion.

I know that this may fall into the warning messages we get like Warning: do not operate hairdryer while in the bathtub. But, I like to be on the safe side. Remember that when working on your car, your #1 priority is to stay safe. Click on this to hear it from the Car Talk guys in a funnier way. http://www.cartalk.com/content/diy/four-seven.html
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Old May 20, 2005 | 03:28 AM
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Since a procedure too simple, is it reasonable to do oil change in cheap oil change stations asking $15 for work?
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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:40 AM
  #9  
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From: Mansfield, TX
11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
Not only no, but #%*@ NO ! !

1) Most of these stations don't use Mobil 1 or equivalent oil.
2) They don't have the correct oil filter.
3) They don't have the oil drain plug crush ring.
4) They don't have the experience to look for any other problems that a qualified Mercedes mechanic would look for.

Jim
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Old May 20, 2005 | 10:12 AM
  #10  
mbbodytech's Avatar
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From: White Lake, MI
04 C320 Coupe MT
I just changed the oil in my ML, and am a little perplexed. I have the MB measuring stick, and since my garage isn't perfectly level, I started the car, let it run for 5 minutes, and then waited another 10 minutes and then measured the oil level. The factory stick has a bunch of millimeter markings on it.

Then, I pulled about 9.5 quarts out of the engine! The capacity in WIS says 8 liters, which equals about 8.5 quarts. And, by the time I got the oil back to the same marking as it was before I started it took about 9.5 quarts to fill it. Does this make sense? Or am I crazy?!

By the way, my car is a 03 ML 320. (one of the very few Model Year 03 320s - most were 350s)
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Old May 20, 2005 | 06:27 PM
  #11  
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From: By the City by the Bay, CA
2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Arrow Lifting the driver's side

Originally Posted by X72
Please let us know how it goes for you wickeddragon.

The only thing I would add is for you never to get under a car supported by a jack only.

I know Gregs210 didn't say that in his post, but he was not specific about how to lift the drivers side. Gregs210's post was excellent in my opinion.
Thanks for the kind words; I try to do my best; nice reminder about the safety issue as well. So, here are three safe ways to lift the left side (that keeps the pan level and still gives you enough room to work under it), from easiest to most difficult. My favorite method, if you live on a quiet street, is to pull up on the curb on the driver's side. This of course means that you are parking the wrong way on the street, so don't do it if you have mean policemen or are on a busy street. (It also means you have to lay in the street to do the oil change...) The next most difficult is to use ramps and put them only on the driver's side. The problem with ramps is that they like to slide, and the car will be pretty high up, so be careful getting out -- and especially careful that you don't overdrive them or shoot off them when you're finished. (If you're industrious and have the proper tools, you could make some low ramps out of 6x6 stock, because you don't really need much more than that, but in any event be sure you're centered on the ramps.) Last but not least, raise the car with the jack and put jackstands under the lift points on the left side. This is lots more difficult and time consuming, but it will work, and if you're of unusually large proportions, you might need this extra height.

I'm sure you will indeed enjoy the experience, and as always, enjoy the ride.
Greg
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