E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Spark Plug

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Old 03-28-2006, 02:07 PM
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2000 E320 Sedan
Angry Spark Plug

Last Thursday I took my W210 to the mechanic for a minor tune up by replacing only the spark plugs. It turned out that it has 12 spark plugs and the total bill was $352.00 with labor of 2 hrs !!! How much does it cost you all just to do that? Is not it pricy!!!

Last edited by E320Star; 03-28-2006 at 02:15 PM.
Old 03-28-2006, 02:18 PM
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things with and without wheels
Let's assume that they get 95 an hour=190 +
12 spark plugs , let's say that they are $8 a piece=96 + tax
and $50 for?
Old 03-28-2006, 02:24 PM
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Labor = 2 hrs x $85 per/hr = $170
Parts = 12 units x $11.33 a plug = $135.96
Tax = $46.

I think I will take a class on how to do that myself since I can get the same spark plugs for $6 a piece + my free labor !!!

Oh well, I guess I do not have to worry about spark plugs for the next 60,000 miles !!
Old 03-28-2006, 05:08 PM
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I spent $560 for the 16 I had replaced at the dealer
Old 03-28-2006, 05:24 PM
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things with and without wheels
ouch
Old 03-28-2006, 06:51 PM
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1987 300SDL aka the "Money Pit"
Not a bad price really.

You think thats bad price out a plug change on an XJ8.

You gotta pay to play.
Old 03-28-2006, 06:55 PM
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Chevrolet Chevette, Ford Pinto, Pontiac Aztek, Trabant, Yugo GV (and all the worst cars ever built)
Spark Plugs

Last year, during a long weekend I decided to change my own spark plugs. It was not a hasty decision on my part and I did a lot of research first before doing it - including asking the dealer if I should replace my plugs. The car had about 65,000 miles at that time. The dealer said it was not necessary to replace the plugs until 100,000 and despite expressions of my intent that they do it - they discouraged me from it.

So I took it upon myself....

Bought platinum plugs from autozone at $12.00 per plug. Yup I bought the most expensive plugs I could afford but what the hell - I change plugs every 60,000 miles so why be a cheapskate. Also bought a plug puller, some curved wrenches, ratchet wrenches and attachements, anti-sieze, rags, etc, etc.. Afterwards I got the digital camera ready, took a deep breath and plunged into the engine bay.

To make a long story short - it took me a good portion of Saturday morning into Sunday afternoon. I am quite mechanically inclined but those bloody plugs are located in the worst location in a mercedes engine. I had to remove the air-filter and all the coil connections and properly mark them with masking tape to be sure I returned them properly. The coils were VERY VERY VERY VERY DIFFICULT to pull out and I had to pull out 12 of them. I had to be quite create with my tools and at numerouse times I had to use two tools at the same time just to lever one against another to pull out a coil. This was also complicated by the possibility that I could destroy a coil by pulling it out too hard. Aside from having an extremely tight space to work on, the tools I had were simply not meant to do the job and I already had spark plug tools. Those plugs were also all original so the coils had been sitting there for 5 years and I cannot imagine how all that heat, grease, dirt, grime could possible seal them really tight - and I am just talking about the coils. Removign the plugs was another matter altogether as the ratchet and heads had to be the right size or I could end up stripping the plugs.

By Sunday afternoon, my hands were all scratched up and everything was back in place. Started the car and worked fine.

Why did it take me that long? Because I wanted to do it right. I cleaned all the coils, cleaned the engine, cleaned all the parts that I removed and made sure the plugs were good and tight.

Was it worth saving $375? DEFINITELY NOT. Hell, if I can afford a fu*%&ng Mercedes Benze - what is $375 worth for me?

Would I remove and replace the plugs myself again? Yes, I would but not because I want to save money but because I want to be a better mechanic to my car.

Would I recommend it to someone? Yes but only to those who are mechanically inclined, have the patience and fortitude to deal with tough mechanical parts. To those who don't know the difference between a hex wrench and a monkey wrench, or to those who value the skin on the back of their hands - I say open up your wallets and let the pros do the job for you.

When I get the chance I will post some pictures.

p.s. Is the car running better? I couldn't tell a fookin difference. Maybe the dealer was right.

Last edited by Paxfobiscum; 03-28-2006 at 07:05 PM.
Old 03-28-2006, 10:27 PM
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97 E420 90 300E
I paid $200 twice, once to the stealership, and once to an independent german car shop. The last time I did it myself, and it took about 2 hours. Of course I only have 8 plugs compared to double that for the newer models. Im never paying for someone else to do that job again.
Old 03-28-2006, 10:54 PM
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Whats a coil?
Old 03-28-2006, 11:12 PM
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05 SL500, 02 BMW Z3 (Mrs. VF), 05 FJR1300, 91 ZX-11
Originally Posted by MG
Whats a coil?


I recommend you take your car to the dealer.

The coil turns the 12 volts in your cars electrical system into the 50,000 or so volts needed to make the spark jump the spark plug's gap. Old cars used to use one coil and a distributor to send the electricity to each spark plug. Modern electronic ignition systems read the crank position sensors to figure out which plug to fire. The single coil is replaced by a coil for each cylinder, and they are usually relocated to the top of the valve cover.
Old 03-29-2006, 09:47 AM
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For all who are turned off by the current discussion, keep in mind it is definitely a royal PITA to do the plugs the first time. If you do it again though, it's a cakewalk if you've applied anti-seize and dielectric grease to the replacement plugs. Also, if you've never done it before it's a good learning experience. Someone mentioned they're never going to pay someone to change their plugs again....I seem to find myself saying something similar with every DIY repair I've done so far.
Old 03-29-2006, 09:59 AM
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I'd rather pay the $352.00 to a certified mechanic to do this dirty job every 60 to 80 k miles.
Old 03-29-2006, 10:04 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
What are you guys talking about - this is a cake job. I agree, if you find this level of basic work difficult YOU SHOULD NOT be working on your car. You are wiping your *** with money for what is a great job for you to get intimate with your car and see how things work in addition to cleaning things up while your are there. I have posted a couple of it DIY's on this issue several times. Dive in and learn, the second time around you'll see is simply a cake walk. Additionally, I always invite ANYONE to PM me or even call me with any questions you might have. The write-up I added below is for a C43 with sixteen (16) spark plugs.

Here's my last post regarding plug changes with pictures of extension
LINK

Spark Plug Write-up


<HR style="COLOR: #000000" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Tools/items you'll need BEFORE you start:


- Sixteen (16) Denso Spark plugs IK16, or Bosch Equivalent Platinum +4
- 3/8" ratchet w/socket release button
- 5/8" spark plug socket (3/8" size) w/insert (Sears and Home Depot has it)
- Extended reach pliers from Harbor Freight --> LINK
- Asst. Metric allen head & Torx wrench set for removal of coil packs
- Locking extension set 3/8" (told you about these Home Depot item #65502)
- 3/8" universal joint
- Permatex anti-seize compound
- Heavy blankets to protect the fenders
- Allow for approx. two hours of work with clean up

NOTE: ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE PLUGS ON A HOT/WARM ALUMINUM HEAD ENGINE

(1) Open hood all the way up - unlatch and carefully move to the furthermost position. Carefully remove the air cleaner housing and snorkels a.k.a. elephant snouts and place blankets on the fender you are working on.
(2) Blow off the area you'll be working on with an air compressor
(3) You may wish to remove the battery ground terminal
(4) Carefully remove the spark plug High-tension lead, I started at the closest plug to the radiator, on the pax side. Pull from the metal connector with the pliers NOT from the cable! You may wish to remove this cable from the coil pack - I removed the entire cable pack to clean up underneath.
(5) Blow out the hole where the spark plug resides so the trash that is in there now does not blow into your combustion chamber. Employ your 3/8" long extension and ratchet to remove the plug - inspect once removed.
(6) You can double check the gap at this time. Add a "dab" of anti-seize on the threads and place into the 5/8" socket w/extension and NO ratchet. At this point in time, using only your hand insert into the cylinder head and tighten by hand only!!! Once started and snug, I tightened up with the wrench - I only tightened maybe a 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I did not use a torque wrench, however it could not be more than 20 ft-lbs tops! Fasten the high-tension lead now, or you can wait until done with all plugs on that side.
(7) Proceed in similar fashion for the remaining seven on the pax side.
(8) For the driver's side you'll be okay for the first two. After that you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle. I believe that is only retained by one 10mm retaining plastic bolt and you slide up and put aside. If the washer heater lines are too tight, you can disconnect those too.
(9) For the remaining - Blow out, remove, replace plug, anti-seize on threads, hand-tighten, torque down and fasten the high-tension lead.
(10) Replace the air cleaner housing.

Handy Notes...

For the plugs closest to the firewall you just need the shortest extension - you'll see why the locking extensions pay for themselves on these.

Ensure that the leads are properly and fully seated unto the spark plug.

I added a little dab of dielectric inside the tension housing to thwart corrosion.

Note the locking buttons on the extensions below - GET THESE!!! It'll make your job a whole lot easier, they're $20 at Home Depot (Item # 65502)

Last edited by StapleGun; 03-29-2006 at 10:12 AM.
Old 03-29-2006, 10:14 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Originally Posted by E320Star
I'd rather pay the $352.00 to a certified mechanic to do this dirty job every 60 to 80 k miles.
I'd rather have the $200 that I saved to spend somewhere else thank-you very much! Plugs were about $146 more or less - a whole heck of a lot cheaper than the $tealer$ship....
Old 03-29-2006, 11:04 AM
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things with and without wheels
Originally Posted by StapleGun
I'd rather have the $200 that I saved to spend somewhere else thank-you very much! Plugs were about $146 more or less - a whole heck of a lot cheaper than the $tealer$ship....
I feel the same way
It's only a dirty job if your engine compartment is dirty, through the use of latex gloves you still get to keep your manicure intact
Old 03-29-2006, 11:25 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Originally Posted by RobertG
I feel the same way
It's only a dirty job if your engine compartment is dirty, through the use of latex gloves you still get to keep your manicure intact
You could serve hors d'ouevres on my engine - the job is clean, easy and like I previously said, it's a perfect opportunity to get intimate with your engine. You can check for leaks, missing screws, faulty lines, etc...etc...what manicure?
Old 03-29-2006, 11:36 AM
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things with and without wheels
some folks might be very **** about signs of manual labor on their hands
I turned wrenches for over 15 years , so that doesnt bother me at all.
Old 03-29-2006, 11:48 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Originally Posted by RobertG
some folks might be very **** about signs of manual labor on their hands
I turned wrenches for over 15 years , so that doesnt bother me at all.
Everyone should do a little manuel labor from time to time.....
Old 03-29-2006, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by StapleGun
Everyone should do a little manuel labor from time to time.....

You mean from decade to decade or every 100,000 miles which ever comes first !!
Old 03-29-2006, 03:00 PM
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E280 V6 1999 Advantgarde 18in AMG's
£200.00 real pounds on our V6 they said they would never need changing again we will see
Old 03-29-2006, 11:05 PM
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97 E420 90 300E
I wish I could afford to pay someone to fix every little thing that goes wrong with my car, but unfortunately Im not there yet.
Old 03-30-2006, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by velvet fog


I recommend you take your car to the dealer.

Lol Screw you.

If you read some of my other posts you will see that I grew up as a carpenter and can do nearly anything with wood, but when it comes to cars I am an EXPERT credit card holder. Thats why I read these posts.

Staple, you can come over and show me how to do it, then I will be golden.
Old 03-30-2006, 10:45 PM
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One thing I might mention about your bill....the cost of the plugs might be a little high. I paid about $8.75 a piece when I did my plugs for OE bosch platinums. I might be picking nits, but those dollars add up over time.

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