Suspension: control arm, tie rod, ball joint...
Thread Starter
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From: LA/OC
E320
Suspension: control arm, tie rod, ball joint...
Hi,
I have read many people replace the suspension around 100,000 miles.
They feel the handle is much better after the job.
My control arm bushing is not good now. I am thinking about replacing the suspension, also upgrade to E55 sway bar together to save some labor.
The questions are:
A. what should I replace?
1. control arm bushing bushing, of course.
2. Sway bar, bushing
3. Upper control arm?
4. Lower control arm? expensive! is it necessary?
5. Ball joint?
6. Tie rod, inner?
7. Tie rod end?
8. Sway bar link?
9. ?
B. Is it necessary to replace the rear suspension?
C. I found many brands, Lemfoerder, Meyle, Febi... on different websites. Which company is good to choose?
Thanks in advance for your opinion!
Ben
I have read many people replace the suspension around 100,000 miles.
They feel the handle is much better after the job.
My control arm bushing is not good now. I am thinking about replacing the suspension, also upgrade to E55 sway bar together to save some labor.
The questions are:
A. what should I replace?
1. control arm bushing bushing, of course.
2. Sway bar, bushing
3. Upper control arm?
4. Lower control arm? expensive! is it necessary?
5. Ball joint?
6. Tie rod, inner?
7. Tie rod end?
8. Sway bar link?
9. ?
B. Is it necessary to replace the rear suspension?
C. I found many brands, Lemfoerder, Meyle, Febi... on different websites. Which company is good to choose?
Thanks in advance for your opinion!
Ben
Last edited by Ben'z; Apr 19, 2008 at 09:10 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Go with oem
www.autohausa.com up grade the sway bar to the e55 unit if you want to flatten it out in the turns.
ohlord
ohlord
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Toledo, OH
88 535is, 89 318iT
All of those parts can be individually verified to be good or bad, though at 100k, they are all suspect. Lower ball joints only last 50k-60k, so they are shot, if not recent.
If you want the car to drive like new, then replace it all. If you drive like grandma, then replace what's verifiably bad.
Lemfoerder is my favorite. High quality parts, and OEM for lots of Euro manufacturers.
Get it aligned after replacing these parts.
If you want the car to drive like new, then replace it all. If you drive like grandma, then replace what's verifiably bad.
Lemfoerder is my favorite. High quality parts, and OEM for lots of Euro manufacturers.
Get it aligned after replacing these parts.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: LA/OC
E320
Yes, www.autohausa.com. They provide Febi, Meyle, and Lemfoerder for suspension parts. However, they don't have sway bar.
www.autohausa.com up grade the sway bar to the e55 unit if you want to flatten it out in the turns.
ohlord
ohlord
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,076
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From: LA/OC
E320
I was told Lemfoerder makes good quality OEM part; but, from autohausaz.com, Lemfoerder is "alternate brand", and much more expensive. It makes me confused.
How about the lower control arm? Is it easy to be bad?
Thanks!
How about the lower control arm? Is it easy to be bad?
Thanks!
All of those parts can be individually verified to be good or bad, though at 100k, they are all suspect. Lower ball joints only last 50k-60k, so they are shot, if not recent.
If you want the car to drive like new, then replace it all. If you drive like grandma, then replace what's verifiably bad.
Lemfoerder is my favorite. High quality parts, and OEM for lots of Euro manufacturers.
Get it aligned after replacing these parts.
If you want the car to drive like new, then replace it all. If you drive like grandma, then replace what's verifiably bad.
Lemfoerder is my favorite. High quality parts, and OEM for lots of Euro manufacturers.
Get it aligned after replacing these parts.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Toledo, OH
88 535is, 89 318iT
It's the bushings that go bad, and all rubber suspension bushings deteriorate in 8-10yrs and 100k miles.
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From: Columbia, SC
E300
Don't forget a decent spring compressor as springs will have to be removed if you replace the lower control arms... Don't skimp on the spring compressor, it will make the job easier and safer.
ZDmak.com http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...CTMP=1&LowCt=0 has a decent unit
I was solid and easy to use when I replaced the front suspension on my E.
ZDmak.com http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...CTMP=1&LowCt=0 has a decent unit
I was solid and easy to use when I replaced the front suspension on my E.
Last edited by michakaveli; Apr 21, 2008 at 09:45 AM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Columbia, SC
E300
It's easier to replace the entire lower control arm as they have a new bushing already installed. Shop around as you can find decent prices on the entire arm.
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: LA/OC
E320
Don't forget a decent spring compressor as springs will have to be removed if you replace the lower control arms... Don't skimp on the spring compressor, it will make the job easier and safer.
ZDmak.com http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...CTMP=1&LowCt=0 has a decent unit
I was solid and easy to use when I replaced the front suspension on my E.
ZDmak.com http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...CTMP=1&LowCt=0 has a decent unit
I was solid and easy to use when I replaced the front suspension on my E.
The cheapest Lemforder lower control arm I found is still costy, $185.95!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,560
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, SC
E300
Although the complete arms are expensive, it's a pain to remove the old bushings, buy a bushing removal tool, etc... When that's all said and done you're fast approaching the cost of new complete arms.
But's it's only a suggestion. Replacing the arms complete makes the entire job much easier, plug and play. Make sure you install the updated eccentric bolts while you're at it...
But's it's only a suggestion. Replacing the arms complete makes the entire job much easier, plug and play. Make sure you install the updated eccentric bolts while you're at it...
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 463
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From: Long Island, NY
01 E320
I have 90k and my mercedes repair shop gave me a list of suspension parts that he claims I need. Ball joints, control arm bushings, valve cover gaskets, plugs, Alignment, Transmission line, etc. All totalling $1200. The car drives like new, tracks straight, tires wear evenly. Never a drop of any fluid on the garage floor. I think I'll do nothing for now and keep the $1200. I did have him change the Transmission fluid, filter and electrical connector for $200 as that was leaking a drop and the fluid looked dark.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,560
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, SC
E300
I have 90k and my mercedes repair shop gave me a list of suspension parts that he claims I need. Ball joints, control arm bushings, valve cover gaskets, plugs, Alignment, Transmission line, etc. All totalling $1200. The car drives like new, tracks straight, tires wear evenly. Never a drop of any fluid on the garage floor. I think I'll do nothing for now and keep the $1200. I did have him change the Transmission fluid, filter and electrical connector for $200 as that was leaking a drop and the fluid looked dark.
Thread Starter
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From: LA/OC
E320
The list,
1. Lower control arm, comes with the bushing, L/R
2. Ball joint, 2 sets
3. Control arm bolt, 4 sets
4. Upper control arm, L/R
5. Tie rod, inner, 2 sets
6. Tie rod end, L/R
7. Sway bar
8. Sway bar bushing
9. Sway bar link, L/R
Anything else?
1. Lower control arm, comes with the bushing, L/R
2. Ball joint, 2 sets
3. Control arm bolt, 4 sets
4. Upper control arm, L/R
5. Tie rod, inner, 2 sets
6. Tie rod end, L/R
7. Sway bar
8. Sway bar bushing
9. Sway bar link, L/R
Anything else?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,560
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From: Columbia, SC
E300
I'm assuming that you are going to do all the work yourself? If so, just an FYI on the upper control arm on the passenger side. Installation will be challenging. There is a grommet that can be removed from the wheel well, you'll have to cut it out as it is covered by under-coating. you can use a long open ended 17mm or so wrench to hold the bolt still while dis-assembling. Re-assembly was the tricky part.
Thread Starter
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From: LA/OC
E320
I found the spring compressor on ebay, the price are lower.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=015
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=002
The second one looks identical as ZDmak
I don't know should I try it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=015
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=002
The second one looks identical as ZDmak
I don't know should I try it.
Don't forget a decent spring compressor as springs will have to be removed if you replace the lower control arms... Don't skimp on the spring compressor, it will make the job easier and safer.
ZDmak.com http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...CTMP=1&LowCt=0 has a decent unit
I was solid and easy to use when I replaced the front suspension on my E.
ZDmak.com http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...CTMP=1&LowCt=0 has a decent unit
I was solid and easy to use when I replaced the front suspension on my E.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,560
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, SC
E300
I found the spring compressor on ebay, the price are lower.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=015
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=002
The second one looks identical as ZDmak
I don't know should I try it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=015
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=002
The second one looks identical as ZDmak
I don't know should I try it.
