E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Rear DOME lights, someone explain this one!

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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 03:38 PM
  #1  
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1999 E55 AMG
Rear DOME lights, someone explain this one!

Ok, just got a '99 E55 and love it. But i'm just working through a few problems (which I never seem to find answers to by searching the forums!).

My rear Parktronic light and dome lights aren't working. I used the fuse box maps and located all the relevant fuses. After having my rear seat in and out 3 times thinking i'd fixed it (fuse no.3 seemed a bit "sticky") I have come to this conclusion:
If I remove fuse 3 under the seat, wait about 5 seconds and put it back in, the dome lights are fully operational for about 10 seconds. Then they cut out and do not respond to the buttons. Remove the fuse, wait 5 seconds'ish' and the same thing happens. The fuse isn't blowing. I don't know if the parktronic would work because the lights don't stay on long enough for me to put it in reverse!!

I just removed the fuse and back in about 10 times and it consistantly performed as above?? Anyome explain that?? Please??

Sorry for the story but detail is important...

Geo
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #2  
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Firstly, have you checked all the fuses? In addition to the box under the rear seat, there is a second one under the hood, and another one in the dash on the driver's side that you can see only with the driver's door open.

Ohlord hopefully will wander in here shortly after his sauna session.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 12:12 AM
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I checked all the fuses relevant to the dome lights, which I believe was only under the hood and under the seat??? They were all fine.

Any other suggestions? I really don't want to have to pay some muppet to do everything i've just done and then tell me it's something simple!! OHLORD??
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 01:37 AM
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Have you checked for

constant power supply to the fuse socket?Get out the multi meter and pull the fuse and test the power supply.
Have you checked the fuse with the multi meter set to ohms for continuity?
pull the fuse for that also ,never try to jumper ohm test a fuse while still installed in the w210.
#3 affects a lot of other circuits if I remember correctly not only the dome light but power windows and trunk light also.
parktronic fuse 15 in bold, other fuses up in the ecu box by the duo valves.
The fuse is not blowing it completes a circuit and then goes out(odd)almost like a door is opened and then closed and the lamp slowly fades to off.
Has it been this way since you got it?
Have you put a new fuse of the proper amperage into that slot?
have you tried a reset of the whole CAN system by doing a battery disconnect?
do you have a complete fuse chart including the fuses in the dash next to the left vent when you open the door.
Without being there it is like a puzzle,in the morning I will go out and try to duplicate the condition.
battery reset of the system if you need it holler.
ohlord
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 02:36 AM
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wild thought: any difference if the doors are open or close? try for each door.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ohlord
constant power supply to the fuse socket?Get out the multi meter and pull the fuse and test the power supply.
Have you checked the fuse with the multi meter set to ohms for continuity?
pull the fuse for that also ,never try to jumper ohm test a fuse while still installed in the w210.
#3 affects a lot of other circuits if I remember correctly not only the dome light but power windows and trunk light also.
parktronic fuse 15 in bold, other fuses up in the ecu box by the duo valves.
The fuse is not blowing it completes a circuit and then goes out(odd)almost like a door is opened and then closed and the lamp slowly fades to off.
Has it been this way since you got it?
Have you put a new fuse of the proper amperage into that slot?
have you tried a reset of the whole CAN system by doing a battery disconnect?
do you have a complete fuse chart including the fuses in the dash next to the left vent when you open the door.
Without being there it is like a puzzle,in the morning I will go out and try to duplicate the condition.
battery reset of the system if you need it holler.
ohlord
Need to buy a multimeter, being honest though, I've never used one before cause my dad used to help with all the electrics in my cars... I will try though, i'm sure i'll find a "how to" on a multimeter somewhere.

That's almost exactly what happens, it completes a circuit then fades out. It wasn't working at all when I got it and I managed to get it on by removing and replacing the fuse.

I've got a chart in every fuse box and I think the only relevent fuses are under bonnet and under seat. I'll check again though.

Thanks and let me know your findings!

Geo
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 05:17 AM
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1999 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by raymond g-
wild thought: any difference if the doors are open or close? try for each door.

When I was pulling the fuse the 2 rear passenger and drivers door were open...

The thing that has led me away from the door switched is the fact the lights don't respond to the buttons at all? even with the doors closed.

Just went and messed around with it again and discovered that my removing fuse trick (getting it to work for only 10 secs) only happens with the ignition on?? With no key in the ignition, nothing happens, even when I remove and replace the fuse!! This sounds relevent to me????

Geo

Last edited by geo1400; Jun 15, 2008 at 08:05 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by geo1400
Need to buy a multimeter, being honest though, I've never used one before cause my dad used to help with all the electrics in my cars... I will try though, i'm sure i'll find a "how to" on a multimeter somewhere.
Geo
You can find inexpensive < $10 ones almost everywhere (Walmart, Harbor Freight, Radio Shack, etc.) There should be directions included.

If the two leads need to be plugged in, one (usually black) goes to the common (COM) connector and the red one goes to what you want to test such as ohms, volts or milliamps. There is usually a selector switch which you rotate for what you wish to measure. For resistance (ohms) you may see a symbol (greek omega) like a top hat with a round top. Some meters have an 'alarm' that beeps when there is no resistance. Just touch one end of each lead to the connectors of the fuse (removed - very important). It doesn't matter which end in this case - but it DOES in other measurements. If the meter beeps or gives a very low value or 'zero', the fuse is okay. If the meter gives a very high value, the fuse is open or blown. Sometimes when measuring an open circuit such as a bad fuse a special symbol is displayed. This will be explained in the directions or even on the back of the meter.

The terms VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter), DMM (Digital Multimeter) and Multimeter are usually meant to identify the same thing although technically they are each a little different.

There are simpler devices such as continuity testers, open circuit testers, battery testers, etc. These usually only make one type of measurement such as ohms or millivolts and aren't really as useful as a small meter.

Hope this helps some.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 07:57 AM
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1999 E55 AMG
I got a multimeter...

I just bought a multimeter, I'm going to check the resistance of the fuse but what else can I check for? How do I check the power supply to the fuse? Ignition on/off? Remember, i'm a bit clueless with a multimeter so I want to make sure I do it right.

Cheers,

geo1400
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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Follow

the directions with the multimeter.MB always check continuity rith the fuse out.
Check power to fuse with fuse out and and power to fuse terminals.
ohlord
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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1999 E55 AMG
What a handy little tool the multimeter is!! Let's not get to excited though because the rear dome lights still aren't working. I did however discover why there is no power to my CD changer, but that's another thread!!

The fuse in number 3 is fine as are all the fuses. I checked the supply/connection to the fuse and it was reading 12+ volts as I believe it should. But it still only works for roughly 10 seconds when I dis and reconnect the fuse, and then fades off again!! I don't get it.

I did find a blown fuse number 12 in the box next the light switch which I got excited about because it said rear parking aid (or something like that), but didn't make a difference with anything. Not even my rear parking aid, that still doesn't work!!

Any ideas?

Cheers
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #12  
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
You

removed each fuse to test correct.
So far that is my best shotI will ask around and see if Greater minds have a suggestion.

"GOT CODES?"
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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The fact these lights "fade" out and also will go out after some time by themselves if the door is left open means they are controlled by an electronic control box of some sort. Possibly a problem with this unit.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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1999 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by lkchris
The fact these lights "fade" out and also will go out after some time by themselves if the door is left open means they are controlled by an electronic control box of some sort. Possibly a problem with this unit.
Electronic control box? I know what your saying, I was thinking a relay or something...

It's going in to mercedes tomorrow for a check up anyway so we'll see if something comes up.

Geo1400
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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Ok, i've never had this problem, nor attempted to fix one so I'm just theorizing here.

The way these lights work is they either get signal from door or front switch to turn on.
With the switch set to doors, they come on when the doors are open, then after a delay they fade out. When the ignition is turned on, this delay is shorter (I think). I'm thinking this circuit or control box that controls the lights and their dimming, is not getting a signal from the doors to turn the lights on. So when you have ignition on, and you take fuse out and put it back in, this circuit goes into the mode where it is fading out the lights after ignition is turned on.
I don't think all the switches on your doors could go bad all together so maybe some connection to this control circuit has gotten loose. I would try to find it and make sure it is receiving the door signals. and that the connectors to it are seated tightly.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
PSE

control module controls all those functions via the can bus.
Check all wires going to the PSE.
ohlord
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 12:13 AM
  #17  
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Sorry

Could someone point me in the direction of the PSE control module??

Done a search but everybody talks as if they were taught the location of the PSE CM in junior school!!

Cheers

Geo1400
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 12:23 AM
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 01:32 AM
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did you check power to your parktronic control box located in the trunk? Is your car a canadian car or some other non US Spec car? Parktronic wasnt an option on MY 99 US Cars but were an option on 1998 cars.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 04:24 AM
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Thanks for the Picture Raymond. The PSE module seems fine, all the connections are secure and clean looking, identical to the one in the picture.

Originally Posted by husk323
did you check power to your parktronic control box located in the trunk? Is your car a canadian car or some other non US Spec car? Parktronic wasnt an option on MY 99 US Cars but were an option on 1998 cars.
My car is European but Gulf Spec for the climate out here in Dubai. My parktronic works fine up front, but the rear doesn't work. Where in the trunk is the control box and does it only control the rear sensors/dome indicator.

Thanks for the help guys.

Geo
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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There should be connectors for each of the sensors going to the PTS box. The dome light and PTS display are powered by the same lead. The PTS is located behind the trunk liner mounted next to the fender. I would test power to this unit first.
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