Rear DOME lights, someone explain this one!
My rear Parktronic light and dome lights aren't working. I used the fuse box maps and located all the relevant fuses. After having my rear seat in and out 3 times thinking i'd fixed it (fuse no.3 seemed a bit "sticky") I have come to this conclusion:
If I remove fuse 3 under the seat, wait about 5 seconds and put it back in, the dome lights are fully operational for about 10 seconds. Then they cut out and do not respond to the buttons. Remove the fuse, wait 5 seconds'ish' and the same thing happens. The fuse isn't blowing. I don't know if the parktronic would work because the lights don't stay on long enough for me to put it in reverse!!
I just removed the fuse and back in about 10 times and it consistantly performed as above?? Anyome explain that?? Please??


Sorry for the story but detail is important...
Geo
Ohlord hopefully will wander in here shortly after his sauna session.
Any other suggestions? I really don't want to have to pay some muppet to do everything i've just done and then tell me it's something simple!! OHLORD??
Have you checked the fuse with the multi meter set to ohms for continuity?
pull the fuse for that also ,never try to jumper ohm test a fuse while still installed in the w210.
#3 affects a lot of other circuits if I remember correctly not only the dome light but power windows and trunk light also.
parktronic fuse 15 in bold, other fuses up in the ecu box by the duo valves.
The fuse is not blowing it completes a circuit and then goes out(odd)almost like a door is opened and then closed and the lamp slowly fades to off.
Has it been this way since you got it?
Have you put a new fuse of the proper amperage into that slot?
have you tried a reset of the whole CAN system by doing a battery disconnect?
do you have a complete fuse chart including the fuses in the dash next to the left vent when you open the door.
Without being there it is like a puzzle,in the morning I will go out and try to duplicate the condition.
battery reset of the system if you need it holler.
ohlord
Have you checked the fuse with the multi meter set to ohms for continuity?
pull the fuse for that also ,never try to jumper ohm test a fuse while still installed in the w210.
#3 affects a lot of other circuits if I remember correctly not only the dome light but power windows and trunk light also.
parktronic fuse 15 in bold, other fuses up in the ecu box by the duo valves.
The fuse is not blowing it completes a circuit and then goes out(odd)almost like a door is opened and then closed and the lamp slowly fades to off.
Has it been this way since you got it?
Have you put a new fuse of the proper amperage into that slot?
have you tried a reset of the whole CAN system by doing a battery disconnect?
do you have a complete fuse chart including the fuses in the dash next to the left vent when you open the door.
Without being there it is like a puzzle,in the morning I will go out and try to duplicate the condition.
battery reset of the system if you need it holler.
ohlord

That's almost exactly what happens, it completes a circuit then fades out. It wasn't working at all when I got it and I managed to get it on by removing and replacing the fuse.
I've got a chart in every fuse box and I think the only relevent fuses are under bonnet and under seat. I'll check again though.
Thanks and let me know your findings!
Geo
When I was pulling the fuse the 2 rear passenger and drivers door were open...
The thing that has led me away from the door switched is the fact the lights don't respond to the buttons at all? even with the doors closed.
Just went and messed around with it again and discovered that my removing fuse trick (getting it to work for only 10 secs) only happens with the ignition on?? With no key in the ignition, nothing happens, even when I remove and replace the fuse!! This sounds relevent to me????
Geo
Last edited by geo1400; Jun 15, 2008 at 08:05 AM.
Trending Topics
If the two leads need to be plugged in, one (usually black) goes to the common (COM) connector and the red one goes to what you want to test such as ohms, volts or milliamps. There is usually a selector switch which you rotate for what you wish to measure. For resistance (ohms) you may see a symbol (greek omega) like a top hat with a round top. Some meters have an 'alarm' that beeps when there is no resistance. Just touch one end of each lead to the connectors of the fuse (removed - very important). It doesn't matter which end in this case - but it DOES in other measurements. If the meter beeps or gives a very low value or 'zero', the fuse is okay. If the meter gives a very high value, the fuse is open or blown. Sometimes when measuring an open circuit such as a bad fuse a special symbol is displayed. This will be explained in the directions or even on the back of the meter.
The terms VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter), DMM (Digital Multimeter) and Multimeter are usually meant to identify the same thing although technically they are each a little different.
There are simpler devices such as continuity testers, open circuit testers, battery testers, etc. These usually only make one type of measurement such as ohms or millivolts and aren't really as useful as a small meter.
Hope this helps some.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

Cheers,
geo1400
Check power to fuse with fuse out and and power to fuse terminals.
ohlord
The fuse in number 3 is fine as are all the fuses. I checked the supply/connection to the fuse and it was reading 12+ volts as I believe it should. But it still only works for roughly 10 seconds when I dis and reconnect the fuse, and then fades off again!! I don't get it.
I did find a blown fuse number 12 in the box next the light switch which I got excited about because it said rear parking aid (or something like that), but didn't make a difference with anything. Not even my rear parking aid, that still doesn't work!!
Any ideas?

Cheers
So far that is my best shot
I will ask around and see if Greater minds have a suggestion.
"GOT CODES?"
It's going in to mercedes tomorrow for a check up anyway so we'll see if something comes up.
Geo1400
The way these lights work is they either get signal from door or front switch to turn on.
With the switch set to doors, they come on when the doors are open, then after a delay they fade out. When the ignition is turned on, this delay is shorter (I think). I'm thinking this circuit or control box that controls the lights and their dimming, is not getting a signal from the doors to turn the lights on. So when you have ignition on, and you take fuse out and put it back in, this circuit goes into the mode where it is fading out the lights after ignition is turned on.
I don't think all the switches on your doors could go bad all together so maybe some connection to this control circuit has gotten loose. I would try to find it and make sure it is receiving the door signals. and that the connectors to it are seated tightly.
Check all wires going to the PSE.
ohlord

Done a search but everybody talks as if they were taught the location of the PSE CM in junior school!!
Cheers
Geo1400
Thanks for the help guys.
Geo







