docpaul

I have 2 sweet Benz w210 for sale locally

Car 1 is a e320 with 51 K asking price $7200 in sweet condition, one owner clean Car Fax dealer maintained Sliver with dark gray int.

Car 2 is e420 with only 22K asking $9900 and mint, Silver on light gray int.

I realize the e320 is the inline 6 and may be cheaper on gas but has very adequate performance... The cars are very similar but there may be considerations it would be good to know.

I am not aware of any specific issues with the '97 model years but that is why I am asking the owner enthusiasts. Any years to avoid? Specific issues to check?

Any opinions, especially those based on experience, greatly appreciated.

ohlord

are way over priced even if low miles.
Both will cause the same headaches to you and your wallet
If you don't want to learn how to perform your own repairs,mait,and diagnostics.
For nearly 10grand you could pick up a later model V8 M113 car or the V6 M112 in low miles and newer everything, and avoid the one year orphan E420
Just my views,on your choices

E420White

The 97 E420 is a better car in my opinion, even though some say to avoid it.

The Mercedes Dealer mechanic told me that the 97 E420 with it's M119 engine is an easier car to maintain, as it has less electronic components than the 98+ M113 engine.

Some have theorized that the addition of electronic sensors, and control modules in the later cars was a mistake by mercedes. Specifically, the task of diagnosing the car's problems becomes more complicated with all of the additional modules.

My E420 is a daily driver, I've have 125k miles, and I drive 20k per year. No major problems yet. My only regret with my 97 E420 is that it doesn't have the options of the later cars, navigation, newer audio, steering wheel, etc..

.

ohlord

spark plugs.It is easier to maintain the M113.Diagnostics are easier.Parts in most cases are cheaper due to the volume sold.
I.E. mass air sensor M119 $280 M113 $154
Then add all the nice feature that the latter models included and the high price that the 2 sellers want for the older 97 models and it will just have to be a choice to decide if you want to overpay for nice examples of the early model,based on a love for the old school engine,or get a more modern better optioned 99up model with the Equally nice new school engine.
Happy New Year.
engine preference and options would be the deal makers or breakers.
but I would not pay nearly 10k for a 97 even if it was if it was coated in 18K gold

docpaul

Asking price is almost always more than they expect to get.
In this economy it may well be possible to get either one for considerably less, maybe even 20% less. No one suggested what they felt the cars were worth only that those prices are way too high...

I do not agree that newer is better in a low mileage car especially when there is a large price difference as is almost always the case. 3-4 years older is not much in a well engineered car. I have had Volvo with a quarter million miles in the rust belt that looked fabulous at over 20 years old with only expected maintenance most of which I did myself.

50K is a low mileage car. 22K is an almost new one especially if garaged and not exposed to salt... So $7.2 and $9.9 in a strong economy might be reasonable and now maybe $6.5 and $8.5 would be a reasonable.

Seems to me the 8 cylinder with 4 valves per cylinder and less sensors and other electrical advancements to go south may well be more desirable. I do like the tap shifting on the 2000 plus M210 but its no deal breaker. All of them have the 5 speed auto. Don't really see that there is much of a difference. Did they not make that big 8 cylinder M119 for years in several other models? Was it not a very reliable engine?

There may be other reasons to chose the M113 but I am not aware of them.
I changed an alternator on a friends W210 with the M113 and it was very straight forward but failed at 60K... I always source my own parts.

I like a clean car that looks new even when decades old. The newer Benz models just don't hold the same appeal but that is personal taste.

Does anyone know if the '97 lacked other features not mentioned?
I am also interested in knowing the approx mpg that can be expected for these different 6 and 8 cylinder engines if anyone would care to comment.

loubapache

Both cars have the following (major) potential problems:

1) Prone to body rust
2) Rust Spring perches
3) Transmission (1st year of 722.6 on E class)

Other potential problems or premature failures:

1) MAF sensor
2) Window regulators
3) Ball joints

The E320 also leaks oil at the timing cover and head gasket (right rear).

My 97 E320 gets 25 MPG on highways. The E420 is probably 2 MPG less.

Figuero

I don't know much about Hawaiian cars, but I'll assume they don't rust, and have a quite easy life. I would go for the low mileage E420 but knock the price down based on the economy and location. FWIW... our '97 E420 as a trade in was worth $3K in August... A Chicago rust bucket to be sure, but good mechanicals.
I loved the electric like power of the V8.... can you use that on the islands?
And as the smart ones say...INSPECT.

loubapache

I have seen drivers from Califonia and Florida reporting body and spring perch rust issues. All it takes is moisture (getting into the poorly sealed seams).

We also have lots of snow here in Michigan but I control the rust issue on my 97 very well so it does not have any that can be seen. Each spring, I will go over the car and use POR-15 and then tough up paint. Many of the rust spots are due to poor design. Places like bottom cornor of the grill, cornor of the trunk close assist bar, doors, wheel well, etc. The post 2000 have a resigned grill so water will not sit on the bottom cornors.

docpaul

That rust on "spring perch" is a serious defect. I read about it but do not understand exactly. Apparently its not at all easy to check for as the water gets under the paint / undercoating and can be trapped there. One thing I read said visual inspection is impossible. I am assuming this is at the top of the front suspension spring where it attaches to the wheel well?? Is this easy to take a picture of?
Does anyone have experience actually checking this out?

I understand the rocker panel, trunk lid rust tendencies of many cars. Apparently the "over engineered" Benz ignored this issue when previous model the W124 did not have it. Rust Chest a highly effective non toxic liquid treatment, stopped rocker panel and trunk lip rust in a 20 yr old 240 series Volvo for 275K miles when I lived an hour and a half out of Chicago (serious use of salt for months). Rust here in Hawaii not much of a problem excepting older Japanese cars.

MAF sensors, ball joints, not too big a deal, window regulators require taking the door panel off which in a W124 takes patience and skill, and did not seem intuitive at all. Anyone write this one up?

Thanks to everyone for their imput, it makes ownership much more pleasant.

C280 Sport

For about $10,000 you could pick up a 2000 E320 or E430.

TMAllison

You'll usually see split undercoating and evidence of rust before a spring perch gives way. The OEM perch was spot welded sheet metal. The replacement (also sheet metal) is riveted. Usually is a low speed failure with the wheel turned to lock. Even in high speed cases the vehicle is usualy able to be controled.

W210 window regulators take about 2 hours to replace the first time and 1 hr thereafter.

Both cars are ~$2k too expensive IMO; prices may be higher in Maui.

You'll want to be certain the AC works well as it can be expensive to repair.

ohlord

you peel off the mastic around and over the upper perch and inspect for rust.Or any good mb shop will do it during a ppi.
Perch failure at speed has happened in several cases,it just has not yet led to a serious injury.That is why the GOV. has not made it a recall issue.
Mercedes greased their palms and big brother let them get off the hook.Can you imagine the recall bill.
That is why in cases of perch failure I recommend a certified letter to mb usa requesting a refund on repairs.
ohlord