Something about S600 wheels...
w221 S600 18x8.5 front et43 with 235/40 tires
w221 S600 18x9.6 rear et43 with 265/35 tires




Some old favorites:
17" early w220 S600 wheels

18" late w220 S600 wheels
Perhaps I should have bought cheap cast replica wheels from Discount Tire as you have been suggesting to everyone instead of using quality oem forged wheels...
I like em.
There have been numerous postings of tire/wheel changes, and now I'm getting curious.
I heard some stock E-320's are already dropped from the factory , by "X" amount. How can you tell?
Mine seems lower than a stock version, and I am trying to verify this before proceeding .
Two things stand out to me. The car sits slightly lower than any car I have owned, and the fenders seemed rolled. I say the fenders have been rolled, because the paint has been coming off in chunks (since when you roll a fender you stress the paint , thus causing moisture to enter behind the paint). I have repaired most of the paint damage prior to winter setting in and will go after the rest in the spring.(luckily the car is black, so paint match has been a non issue)
I am running the stock rims, but with wide low profile rubber. No matter, and no problems.
Can someone give me a measurement from the top of the rims to the fender wells, or some other method of confirming my suspicions? A stock dimension would be a good reference point.
Aardvark
(Oh ok, My 92 Mustang is quite low as well, but some mods were done to it to make it stick good. Love the Stang cause you can run the crap out of it, and repairs are cheap.
~375 bhp after engine beefing)
You will also note that I say real w210 amg rims have the proper offsets,not just discount tires or tirerack or any of the other quality rim makers that meet the same specs as oem.But to each his own.In a year when your tires are worn out and the side load on the bearings takes its toll,then you can explain the math to the rest of us.For you will be the one with the hands on experience about the importance of proper offsets and wheel mass.Or maybe you know more than the engineers at Mercedes that designed the E55 w210 rims with one set of specs and designed a completely different rim and ET for the S600
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Perhaps I should have bought cheap cast replica wheels from Discount Tire as you have been suggesting to everyone instead of using quality oem forged wheels...

The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I like em.
There have been numerous postings of tire/wheel changes, and now I'm getting curious.
I heard some stock E-320's are already dropped from the factory , by "X" amount. How can you tell?
Mine seems lower than a stock version, and I am trying to verify this before proceeding .
Two things stand out to me. The car sits slightly lower than any car I have owned, and the fenders seemed rolled. I say the fenders have been rolled, because the paint has been coming off in chunks (since when you roll a fender you stress the paint , thus causing moisture to enter behind the paint). I have repaired most of the paint damage prior to winter setting in and will go after the rest in the spring.(luckily the car is black, so paint match has been a non issue)
I am running the stock rims, but with wide low profile rubber. No matter, and no problems.
Can someone give me a measurement from the top of the rims to the fender wells, or some other method of confirming my suspicions? A stock dimension would be a good reference point.
Aardvark
(Oh ok, My 92 Mustang is quite low as well, but some mods were done to it to make it stick good. Love the Stang cause you can run the crap out of it, and repairs are cheap.
~375 bhp after engine beefing)
Wheels are forged:
http://www.fuchsfelge.de/index.php?id=139&L=1
Wheels are forged:
http://www.fuchsfelge.de/index.php?id=139&L=1
Sure the original wheel offset was designed for the S-Class, but the effective offset is within 2mm of the e55 wheels. The front tires fit perfectly between fender & control arm, while the top of the rear tire is flush with the fender. Under compression, the top of the tire bows in and appears to clear the unrolled fender lip.
If my wheel bearings go out then I'll have to attribute it to the age & mileage of the car...not the wheels. If they go out again within the next 200k, then I'll have to agree with you.
Anyways, I am thoroughly enjoying the new look...only thing I might change is to run a 5mm spacer out back instead of 10mm to increase effective offset to et38.
I'll try to get some daytime pics as the ones above do no justice.
'97 Dodge Ram CTD with 16" forged Alcoa LTS
'08 Dodge Ram 1/2 ton with 20" forged Weld Andro
'83 635csi with factory/Fuchs forged 17" throwing stars
I forgot to weigh the wheels, but will try to remember at the first rotation (side-to-side).
Looks like it was dropped some. I have 1" clear to top of rubber, and another 3 3/4" to top of stock 16" rim. Total to top of rim is 4 3/4". The tires are a mild low profile. YES!!
The ride is un-effected to my knowledge.
And don't apologize over going into 69-70 Stang Speak. My favorite years, and love the Boss. Used to run in a 70 Mach, with friends. I used to restore 64-5-6 fastbacks, and currently run a 92 GT (the last of the 302's, before the Mazda 4.6) with some tame mods. Now I digress, but it was fun whooping on the Chevys. Being a Detroiter in my early years was a unique experience. Motown Muscle was rampant.
Yup the fenders were rolled by an idiot, and I am presently repairing the paint below the fender lip body line for rust and paint flake. Paint blend is not bad considering it is black.
Next is a black out scenario similar to our euro bro with the Black and White post. I may change the rims off, but first want to try and paint them, to see the effect. Can't wait till spring in Chitown.
Aardvark

" Effective offset of my wheels is et33 (43mm offset with 10mm hubcentric spacers)"
in your first post on the thread.
That makes a huge difference in the equation

Agreed on the headlights. Was going to install oem xenons so didn't bother polishing, but the new headlights arrived damaged and are unusable.










