2000 E320 Wagon - AC compressor clutch bad...what settings?
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2000 E320 Wagon - AC compressor clutch bad...what settings?
Getting a B1419 error code on the climate control diagnostics - purchased some R134a at O'Reilly's thinking that a recharge would make clutch re-engage but discovered system was overpressure. O'Reilly's technician released some freon from the system but clutch still did not re-engage. Tried turning clutch but it would only make half a turn before jamming up. So I'm not going to mess with trying to replace the clutch - will order a compressor on eBay (found a new one for $154). I don't have the facilities to replace it myself so will get my trusty local garage to put in the compressor but in the meantime (until I receive the new compressor), should I keep the climate controls at a certain setting so as not to cause the overpressure or damage anything else?
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
What was the pressure judged as too high?
You can troubleshoot AC with 1 finger while not leaving the driver seat.
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
You can troubleshoot AC with 1 finger while not leaving the driver seat.
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
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OK, I will try to get the refrigerant pressure tomorrow. The O'reilly technician and I were going by the gauge on the R134a bottle that I purchased - it was in the red overpressure zone. A YouTube video I watched of someone recharging the AC on a similar year CLK320 showed the correct pressure in the blue zone, around 45psi. I already followed the instructions you sent to get the compressor clutch error - are you thinking there might be something else wrong if the pressure is too high?
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My trusty local garage doesn't work on AC systems so I just got a quote for $1700 to replace the compressor, receiver and some other related items from MBH, a small independent MB repair shop in Virginia Beach that works on mostly older Benz's. I might be able to save a couple of hundred if their service manager lets me buy the compressor on eBay but even then, I paid $1850 for the car in March so even if I could afford the $1500-1700, spending that kind of money just doesn't make sense. Hoping to get a new inspection on it tomorrow then I'll put it up for sale...someone with the right equipment can fix it for a lot less.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
So from what I read - you spend some time driving around to get those $1700 estimates, but you did not spend couple of minutes to push the buttons for proper troubleshooting?
Like OJ lawyers said "garbage in, garbage out"
Like OJ lawyers said "garbage in, garbage out"
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Sorry - hadn't had a chance to check those readings until just now. Here they are:
01 = In-car temp sensor = 96
02 = outside temp sensor = 75
03 = left heat exchanger (heater core) temp sensor = 85
04 = right heat exchanger sensor = 87
05 = evaporator sensor = 80
06 = coolant temp = 89
07 = refrig. pressure in bar = 05
08 = refrig temp sensor (23*9 = 23.9deg C) = 75
09 = nothing = 27
10 = Blower control voltage = .8
Checked the DTC readings again and confirmed the B1419 code against the website codes = Electromagnetic clutch (A9k1). The clutch is not turned or engaging with the AC and the engine turned on - I can turn the clutch a little with the engine off but then it jams up. I explained the problem and the error code to the local MB shop over the phone and that's what they based their quote on. Will swing by their shop tomorrow before I get the car inspected in case they know some magic fix...but not too optimistic.
01 = In-car temp sensor = 96
02 = outside temp sensor = 75
03 = left heat exchanger (heater core) temp sensor = 85
04 = right heat exchanger sensor = 87
05 = evaporator sensor = 80
06 = coolant temp = 89
07 = refrig. pressure in bar = 05
08 = refrig temp sensor (23*9 = 23.9deg C) = 75
09 = nothing = 27
10 = Blower control voltage = .8
Checked the DTC readings again and confirmed the B1419 code against the website codes = Electromagnetic clutch (A9k1). The clutch is not turned or engaging with the AC and the engine turned on - I can turn the clutch a little with the engine off but then it jams up. I explained the problem and the error code to the local MB shop over the phone and that's what they based their quote on. Will swing by their shop tomorrow before I get the car inspected in case they know some magic fix...but not too optimistic.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Clutch alone can be easy replaced in the range of $100. Your system holds pressure what is good sign, but try to figure out why clutch failed?
The compressor should turn by hand. That means grabbing front plate on the clutch.
Then, worse coming to worse - members were buying new compressors for less than $300.
Add new drier and some refrigerant - brings DIY cost below $500.
The compressor should turn by hand. That means grabbing front plate on the clutch.
Then, worse coming to worse - members were buying new compressors for less than $300.
Add new drier and some refrigerant - brings DIY cost below $500.
Last edited by kajtek1; 06-04-2018 at 08:34 PM.
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Clutch does not turn by hand...feels like the bearings have seized but i do not know why. The clutch is less than $50 on eBay and a new Denso compressor is $154. I've watched some YouTube videos and can see that it would be an inexpensive fix if I could change them out myself.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Pay attention what you are turning. The clutch has to turn as otherwise it would stop the engine, or destroy the belt.
I assume that you are trying to turn front plate, what is attached to compressor shaft and that is jammed? But that would be expensive assumption, so make sure you do the proper test. The clutch has build-in thermal fuse that burns when overheated, so you can measure resistance to confirm that.
Also inspect the belt as with seized compressor it did take some beating.
I assume that you are trying to turn front plate, what is attached to compressor shaft and that is jammed? But that would be expensive assumption, so make sure you do the proper test. The clutch has build-in thermal fuse that burns when overheated, so you can measure resistance to confirm that.
Also inspect the belt as with seized compressor it did take some beating.
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Appreciate all the good advice but I've done as much as I am capable of doing. My trusty mechanic recommended I try another AC shop (Beach Radiator & Air Conditioning in Virginia Beach) - am waiting for their quote...