dannieboiz

I just ordere a PPI amp to power my eclpse subs. Was searching around and found this thread . here Look @ the 2nd to last post is it even technologically possible to power speakers with fiber?

I'm just going to add a single 12 Eclipse sub and remove the HK sub that's in there now. Should I use the signal from the sub or from the mids? I hear the xover points on the HK subs aren't that great.

W211 Ryda

Fiber optic cables are only used to send signals from the headunit to the amp. Regular copper speaker wires are used from the amp to the speakers. BTW, which series of Eclipse subs did you get and will you be putting it into a sealed or vented enclosure?

dannieboiz

I have an old 12 Eclipse alum. I ripped everything out of my old car. I had 2 running off a 1500D and my mids running off a 800a4. I plan on putting in which ever car was my next car but when I decided on the E class I changed my mind and wanted to keep everything as much stock as possible. I'm extremely satisfied with the SQ of the HK system but lack a little umph in the lows. I gave everything to my little brother who's in college and I'm sure he'll appreciate it more than I will for his age (college) I'm an audio fanatic and likes my music loud but clear. I wish I can make the over all stock system sound a little louder w/o altering anything.

Another thinig I noticed was the HK subs can't handle mid bass to well, it seems to bottom out. THe popping sound is nasty. I'm just gonna remove it complete and use the hole as airvent.

I was considering the JL CleanSweap so I can replace all the speakers but then I like the sound of the logic 7 so I decided just to add the sub. I don't think I've ever own or heard a better stock system than the HK. If you have any ideas or recommendation bring it on. I see some upgrading their tweeter and using the stock up with good result. I may go that route eventually.

Dvinn

Not that I am aware of, I swaped my front speaker to Dynaudios and they are connected via regular copper wires.

dannieboiz

thanks for the confirmation guys. I'll have to go get an enclosure now.



Sorry w211 Ryder, miss your last question.

I've always liked my sub in a sealed enclsure. Especially for the Eclipse Alum. They sound so much tighter in an sealed box. 1.25"cu is probably the best for it. You'll need at least 500 watts for them to sound good.

However, I've heard other subs in a slot vented box and boy do they move some air. But I think sealed box are best for SQ just need a little more power than a ported box that's all.

W211 Ryda

I have an Eclipse aluminum series as well powered by my 500 watt PG amp in my beater. It’s currently in a sealed box, but I’m debating whether I should build a vented box for it and put it in the Benz. I would also like to swap in some MB Quarts or Boston components for the cabin for better SQ, but I’ve heard of stories about the volume going haywire with aftermarket amps. Something regarding the microphone that monitors the internal cabin noise must be disabled. For now, the stock HK system is adequate at low volumes, but it sounds horrible at higher volumes. Will you be doing your own install? I believe there is a harness that you could purchase that taps into the subwoofer leads and 12V accessory.

dannieboiz

I was trying to look for the subwoofer connection and couldn't see anything. It's a really stange design. It appears that the cone is facing backward.

Can someone point out to me where the stock amp is located at? Also how do I remove the back dash to get the sub out?

came out there with a multimeter to try to find the remote wire but no luck.

W211 Ryda

Check out this link regarding the subwoofer harness. Hopefully Dean still has some. If not, you could try to probe the back of the fuse block in the trunk for a 12volt line when switched.

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ness+subwoofer


here is a crappy pic i took of the stock sub. i guess you could start from here in order to remove it.


HK layout

dannieboiz

so exactly what does the microphone do?

Thanks for the link, I actually saw it, but it cracks me up when I saw $200 for a couple wires and harness? That's 1000% mark up. I'm almonst 100% confident that if I can pull out the connectors I can get the mfg's part # for it and do my own cablings. To make it worst it seems like he's using 14awg cable or something similar for the constant 12v to the amp. What a joke, can't handle more than 350watts. It's obvious that it never kicked off. Who really needs all that crap when the battery is right there in the trunk? All I need is to figure out which wire is the neg/pos for the sub and the remote turn on wire. Everything else I can do blind folded.

Is there anything I should be aware of before trying to pull out the rear dash? Are those pins easy to remove?