Window Tint question




Do you have tint on entire glass in rear doors quarter windows? When they did tinted my 2007 Bluetec, it was not possible to fill a small triangle piece in the quarter window close to the trailing door edge; this area is blocked by the door frame. Anyone manage to have that section tinted and how? I will post pictures if my question is ambiguous.
Last edited by pinebaron; Oct 4, 2009 at 06:39 AM.
Common with these cars, I think if you took apart the interior piece you can probably have it fully done.
It doesn't bother me though, I don't really notice it, nor do I think it looks bad really.




So it is all up to a skilled tint person; all that BS the tint guy and shop owner gave me. He wanted $150 to remove door panel etc. (after the install). I may have agreed to additional $150 if he had warned me prior to commencing the job. I have no problem spending the dough if it makes sense and I am not being taken for a ride.
Later in the day I removed the rear door panel since I am planning to upgrade my speakers (see my thread inthe audio section). Removal of door panel (as the link suggests) is not required since it does nothing to help fill the "Shark Fin" (Thanks K-A). I'll be back at the tint guy soon else I'll just order the tint and complete the job myself since I like jobs completed to perfection.
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Bottom line: lazy and incompetent tint installers. Find someone with tinting skills and experience with these cars.
There's nothing uglier than a bad tint job.
ps, go with Huper Optik as Vik888 says. Authorized dealers are top installers and the product is superior.
Last edited by 220S; Oct 4, 2009 at 03:26 PM.




Bottom line: lazy and incompetent tint installers. Find someone with tinting skills and experience with these cars.
There's nothing uglier than a bad tint job.
ps, go with Huper Optik as Vik888 says. Authorized dealers are top installers and the product is superior.
Perfect Window Tint, Inc.
Salvador - Owner
3071 S. Harbor Blvd.
Santa Ana, CA 92704
(714) 546-1002
To tint everything except the windshield was $400+. Out of all the authorized dealers in SoCal, they were the cheapest for Huper Optik (when I had my cars done). It also didn't hurt that they were the closest one to me too!
Go for Huper Optik! You won't be disappointed!
EDIT: Also, as with most competent tint installers, they tint your entire rear window (no untinted "shark fin").
Last edited by chokaay; Oct 5, 2009 at 01:33 PM.
What would you guys pick if you have a black exterior and black interior, how dark would you pick? I like the way my car looks because it make it looks more mean.. but Huper Optik doesn't make 5%
What would you guys pick if you have a black exterior and black interior, how dark would you pick? I like the way my car looks because it make it looks more mean.. but Huper Optik doesn't make 5%

IMO, I'd pick Huper Optik Ceramic 40. It's dark enough to look "cool", and will keep the inside of your car very comfortable, but light enough where CA cops won't give you trouble (unless they're having a very bad day and are looking to give someone a ticket).
One of my cars has Ceramic 40 and IMO it looks great. My second car has Ceramic 60 (since this was the one I got tinted first and didn't want to risk getting pulled over), and it looks OK, but I wish it had the superior heat-reflecting properties of Ceramic 40.
IMHO, I wouldn't go less than Ceramic 40 if you want to stay relatively "safe". When I know I'm going to a heavily patrolled area (like LAX), I drive my Ceramic 60 car.
EDIT: If you're dead-set on getting 5%, you can check out other brands of ceramic or carbon tint. I know V-Kool and F1 Pinnacle are both widely popular brands, just like Huper Optik. You may want to check them out as well.




Upsetting me will cost the dealer in lost business since several friends/enthusiasts who stopped by to check the job have cancelled their planned work from this store. I originally planned to give this dealer a complete audio upgrade job for my car a $3.5k plus job (he did not even know I had this planned), mainly because I have limited time to do it myself. Since this episode, I commenced the upgrade myself; its just going to take me much longer doing one piece at a time; door panels, trunk etc. are all dismantled presently. One set Focal speakers will initially arrive tomorrow; I need to confirm these fit in the front doors since I want to avoid heavy modifications.
By the way there is no Automobile Huper Optik intaller in this area in NJ; the nearest one is miles away in PA.
One of my cars has Ceramic 40 and IMO it looks great. My second car has Ceramic 60 (since this was the one I got tinted first and didn't want to risk getting pulled over), and it looks OK, but I wish it had the superior heat-reflecting properties of Ceramic 40.
IMHO, I wouldn't go less than Ceramic 40 if you want to stay relatively "safe". When I know I'm going to a heavily patrolled area (like LAX), I drive my Ceramic 60 car.
EDIT: If you're dead-set on getting 5%, you can check out other brands of ceramic or carbon tint. I know V-Kool and F1 Pinnacle are both widely popular brands, just like Huper Optik. You may want to check them out as well.
So I will probably pick the darkest possible the Huper offers or I will have to check out the other brands you mentioned in the post. But thanks for the great info..
So I will probably pick the darkest possible the Huper offers or I will have to check out the other brands you mentioned in the post. But thanks for the great info.. 
If you go to Perfect Window Tint, tell him to show you the "hot box" demo... it is simply amazing.
And yeah, the only thing I found that will reduce the number of people cutting you off is if your car looks like a cop car... or to drive with DRL on. I've tried numerous trials with DRL's on and off, and found that DRL's noticeably reduces the frequency I am cut off (without changing the car, my driving style, the locations involved in the "experiements", the days and time range used in the "experiments", etc). Many times a car will turn on their blinker and/or begin to edge into my lane, only to turn their blinker off again and/or stay in their lane until I pass. The only thing I can think of is that DRL's make your vehicle look like it's coming faster than it actually is, and/or it makes other drivers ahead of you pay more attention to your vehicle, so they are less likely to double-think their move (and most of the time choose to err on the side of safety).





