sub786

Folks, any one has done Sea foam treatment? I have e320 2003, I can not find the break booster . I used to have Lexus and was able to seafoam the engine through break booster ( suction tube) . For E 320 how to seafoam directly to engine. I don't want to use in tank or oil.
Appreciate response from the MB community
- Sub

Efivehundred

The vehicle does not have a vacuum assist brake booster. If you're determined to do this treatment you could look around the intake manifold for a vacuum line and use it. Good luck.

sub786

Thank you, I guess i need to find another way to feed the intakes.

edwinwalke

Why not try the product approved by MB for fuel system maintenance. Chevron Techron Concentrate -- it is in the list of approved products. Just put in the tank and fill and drive. Worked great in my 03 C320.

jcat

I recommend Lucas fuel treatment. Cleans and lubricates fuel parts and gets water out of the lines. I've never seen seafom benefit anything other than a 30+ year old car that's sat for a while.

NBDT

I use to perform regular SeaFoam treatments on a 02 Acura TL-S using two cans. One through the intake manifold (using a suction tube) while splitting the other can in the tank and oil. It was smokey, but ran great afterwards.

If we're able to use a Chevron fuel additive in the tank as another poster noted, and assuming SeaFoam is safe for MB vehicles, why couldn't it just be added in the tank?

sub786

Check this link and you will know why I want to seafoam directly to engine. There is a definite proof and cleans engine from inside

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es30...o-seafoam.html

sub786

I did seafoam . As there is no break boaster , so I decided to add directly through air intake . It looks like a waffle shaped ( you need to take the whole air filter case off). While engine running ( ideal) I poured till it started to die then hold the bottle, gave few minutes to recover the engine and again poured I repeated the process till I used half can . I turned of the engine and let it sit for 10 min. Then I started the engine and drove the car on 2nd and 1st gear at 5 - 6 rpm . I drove back home and the engine check light was on. That was expected. I disconnected the terminal and reconnected . And drove again to check if engine check light comes. No engine check light . Now 2 days passed engine running very smooth and sound like a new Lexus engine ( I have to bring my ear close to engine to hear it is running) . Pick of the engine improved and most important gas millage jumped from 24 miles per gallon to 25 miles per gallon. It really makes a big difference. THIS IS REALLY A MAGIC. Do at your own risk.

ozusa

the "waffle shaped" thing under the air cleaner is the Mass Air Flow sensor assembly. The internal MAF mechanism is a sensitive part. Do not pour chemicals, including seafoam, through it.

Remove it first.

It's easy and here's how: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2004-e320.html

I am not encouraging or discouraging the use of SeaFoam. I have no experience of it. I have no idea if the throttlebody likes seafoam or not.

sub786

Yes MAF is sensitive to some petroleum product , please do at your own risk. But yes it definately cleans engine. If you take out MAF then engine will die becasue MAF senses air flow and converts into voltage. One idea is use spray gun with long nozzle . Small waffle shape is not the sensor that is just to protect any object going into intake. Sensor is behind it so if you use nozzle and then inject sea-foam passed the sensor then it should be 100% safe for MAF. On seafoam product it says it is safe for O2 sensor though ( I know MAF is not same as o2 sensor). Also I put one into engine oil. Now I am going to change it this weekend. I have never heard from any one who have used it that it does not work. All engines basic mechanics is same. Spark plug, piston, injectors and valves , so it is commonsense that carbon will definitely build up over time in the chambers and may effect valves which will not close properly and then it effects all the mechanics of the chambers. So it is important to clean. Again do it your ownrisk. I have good experience with it like others.

ozusa

while you do the seafoam thing, but if you can use a nozzle to get passed the MAF, and avoid removiing it, that's OK too.

sub786

I did oil change today and also did Flush . Still no check engine light . I also do transmission oil change after 20K . Actually drain and refill with 4 Q. It is pink . At 122K engine is still solid. It is because I have been following my own recommendations. Do engine oil at 3K, My last car crossed 240K and still engine was solid with good compression and no change in oil level. MB dealears recommendations does not make sense. Engine is engine still follow same laws of physics and mechanics only difference is now we have aluminum blocks and ring piston. If you can afford to change oil early then engine life will be more . Same is the case with transmission, I refill it after 25 K ( not flush) .

masonh66

you guys need to be careful with this stuff.i saw a guy hydrolock an older 420SEL adding it straight into carb.he was poring very slowly also.he had a guy in the car giving it a little gas and then bam,the motor seized.a complete rebuild was needed to fix the engine.

he wasn't pouring it in any faster than a brake booster line would suck it up either.it may work great,but i wouldn't use it,unless the vacuum line was very small,maybe 1/4".

just my $.02

jcat

you're comparing your last car (a lexus, with an iron block and heads) to this one. That's your first mistake. There are toyota (who makes lexus) beaters with 400k miles on them who haven't had an oil change in years. Some engines just run better. My friend had a 1993 camry with 325k miles on it that we tried to kill by pouring a 2l of root beer into the crank case. The ****er ran, and well, for another 50k miles before the timing belt, which he had neglected for over 150k at the time, finally let go and the engine was toast.

Your second mistake is thinking you need to change THAT MUCH oil in only 3k miles. You're wasting money, period, the end. Don't talk to me about physics and science of engines, there's no good reason to change full synthetic oil at 3k regardless of oil capacity (ours is HUGE) nor driving habits.

Your last and final mistake is automatically equating that changing oil early will improve engine life. Simply not true. You're pulling the lubricant out of the engine before it has a chance to settle into all the grooves and valleys and microabrasions in the engine and do it's job.

But please, by all means keep doing what you're doing. Because not one single Mercedes vehicle has ever made it past 100k miles without following your excessive maintenance recommendations (/sarcasm)