Jun 17, 2015, 02:51 PM
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- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Replace the Starter?
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Replace starter on E500 V8?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
Replace starter on E500 V8?
Anyone replace a starter? Any traps? photos? Best place to buy. Exhaust have to come out of the way? Tools?
Mine sounds like starter drive with loud screech when starting (not gear grinding). 99% sure dry starter drive and will go out soon. Thought I would start preworking replacement vs rebuilding at starter shop.
Mine sounds like starter drive with loud screech when starting (not gear grinding). 99% sure dry starter drive and will go out soon. Thought I would start preworking replacement vs rebuilding at starter shop.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,184
Likes: 16
From: Highlands Ranch, Colorado
2014 BMW M235i
I truly wish I could help but to be honest I take my car to the dealer for any work that needs to be done on it - yes I pay out the rear but that's just my way of making sure I don't screw anything up.
"Locate the starter by tracing the positive battery cable, which splits and travels to the alternator and starter motor. You will know that the starter needs replacing if your battery is still working, but you only hear a "whirring" and a click whenever you turn your ignition key. Disconnect the negative battery cable and unhook the electrical connection leading to the starter. Use a socket wrench to remove the two mounting bolts for the starter and unscrew the brass nut securing the positive battery cable feed. Insert a new starter into the Mercedes E Class 320."
This is the only sort of step by step instruction I have seen thus far but mind you it is for the E320 - probably the same though if it is actually referring to a W211.
"Locate the starter by tracing the positive battery cable, which splits and travels to the alternator and starter motor. You will know that the starter needs replacing if your battery is still working, but you only hear a "whirring" and a click whenever you turn your ignition key. Disconnect the negative battery cable and unhook the electrical connection leading to the starter. Use a socket wrench to remove the two mounting bolts for the starter and unscrew the brass nut securing the positive battery cable feed. Insert a new starter into the Mercedes E Class 320."
This is the only sort of step by step instruction I have seen thus far but mind you it is for the E320 - probably the same though if it is actually referring to a W211.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
I truly wish I could help but to be honest I take my car to the dealer for any work that needs to be done on it - yes I pay out the rear but that's just my way of making sure I don't screw anything up.
"Locate the starter by tracing the positive battery cable, which splits and travels to the alternator and starter motor. You will know that the starter needs replacing if your battery is still working, but you only hear a "whirring" and a click whenever you turn your ignition key. Disconnect the negative battery cable and unhook the electrical connection leading to the starter. Use a socket wrench to remove the two mounting bolts for the starter and unscrew the brass nut securing the positive battery cable feed. Insert a new starter into the Mercedes E Class 320."
This is the only sort of step by step instruction I have seen thus far but mind you it is for the E320 - probably the same though if it is actually referring to a W211.
"Locate the starter by tracing the positive battery cable, which splits and travels to the alternator and starter motor. You will know that the starter needs replacing if your battery is still working, but you only hear a "whirring" and a click whenever you turn your ignition key. Disconnect the negative battery cable and unhook the electrical connection leading to the starter. Use a socket wrench to remove the two mounting bolts for the starter and unscrew the brass nut securing the positive battery cable feed. Insert a new starter into the Mercedes E Class 320."
This is the only sort of step by step instruction I have seen thus far but mind you it is for the E320 - probably the same though if it is actually referring to a W211.
Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: NW Chiburb
04 E500
Star Service CD says:
1. Disconnect ground cable from battery.
2. Detach lower engine compartment paneling.
3. Dismount electrical lines.
4. Dismount right engine mount from engine support. (Unscrew bolt at engine mount, lightly raise engine and place engine mount to the side.)
5. Unscrew bolts.
6. Take out starter to the side.
7. Check ring gear on the drive plate for wear and damage.
8. Install in reverse order.
9. Perform function check.
10. Render electrical system operational. (i.e.,normalize everything)
11. Read diagnostic trouble code memory and erase.
Looks like you're in the clear on the exhaust. Connection nut torques for circuits 30 and 50 are 14 and 6 Nm, respectively (if you care; I didn't look up the circuits, figure it should be obvious), and torque for the starter bolts is 42 Nm. Looks pretty simple, but you need more detail on any of it let me know.
1. Disconnect ground cable from battery.
2. Detach lower engine compartment paneling.
3. Dismount electrical lines.
4. Dismount right engine mount from engine support. (Unscrew bolt at engine mount, lightly raise engine and place engine mount to the side.)
5. Unscrew bolts.
6. Take out starter to the side.
7. Check ring gear on the drive plate for wear and damage.
8. Install in reverse order.
9. Perform function check.
10. Render electrical system operational. (i.e.,normalize everything)
11. Read diagnostic trouble code memory and erase.
Looks like you're in the clear on the exhaust. Connection nut torques for circuits 30 and 50 are 14 and 6 Nm, respectively (if you care; I didn't look up the circuits, figure it should be obvious), and torque for the starter bolts is 42 Nm. Looks pretty simple, but you need more detail on any of it let me know.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
Star Service CD says:
1. Disconnect ground cable from battery.
2. Detach lower engine compartment paneling.
3. Dismount electrical lines.
4. Dismount right engine mount from engine support. (Unscrew bolt at engine mount, lightly raise engine and place engine mount to the side.)
5. Unscrew bolts.
6. Take out starter to the side.
7. Check ring gear on the drive plate for wear and damage.
8. Install in reverse order.
9. Perform function check.
10. Render electrical system operational. (i.e.,normalize everything)
11. Read diagnostic trouble code memory and erase.
Looks like you're in the clear on the exhaust. Connection nut torques for circuits 30 and 50 are 14 and 6 Nm, respectively (if you care; I didn't look up the circuits, figure it should be obvious), and torque for the starter bolts is 42 Nm. Looks pretty simple, but you need more detail on any of it let me know.
1. Disconnect ground cable from battery.
2. Detach lower engine compartment paneling.
3. Dismount electrical lines.
4. Dismount right engine mount from engine support. (Unscrew bolt at engine mount, lightly raise engine and place engine mount to the side.)
5. Unscrew bolts.
6. Take out starter to the side.
7. Check ring gear on the drive plate for wear and damage.
8. Install in reverse order.
9. Perform function check.
10. Render electrical system operational. (i.e.,normalize everything)
11. Read diagnostic trouble code memory and erase.
Looks like you're in the clear on the exhaust. Connection nut torques for circuits 30 and 50 are 14 and 6 Nm, respectively (if you care; I didn't look up the circuits, figure it should be obvious), and torque for the starter bolts is 42 Nm. Looks pretty simple, but you need more detail on any of it let me know.
1. Disconnect ground cable from battery. (no problem easy)
2. Detach lower engine compartment paneling. (no problem easy)
3. Dismount electrical lines. (no problem easy)
4. Dismount right engine mount from engine support. (Unscrew bolt at engine mount, lightly raise engine and place engine mount to the side.) (no problem easy) BUT There is a bolt on the top of the engine mount to allow the top to move. This bolt I could not reach. Note the steps in the procedure to the right on the cd about remove mount. The right Exhaust and manifold must be removed to remove the engine mount.
5. Unscrew bolts. Could not get to this step as I could not remove the engine mount due to the top bolt securing the mount in place and the mount would not move with the engine jacked.
6. Take out starter to the side.
Never happened. I am not structured in my shop to pull exhaust.
So now the answer to my origional question does the exhaust have to be removed to get the starter out. YES!
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 723
Likes: 32
From: Central Jersey
2003 E500, 2004 G35X
Man, 1/2 year ago I replace my starter in the G35, and it took me 3 hours to remove many things and very hard to reach to the bolts on the starter, and a tiny little place to work the starter loose and to put the new one in. Fortunately, I was on my back all the time.
You have to remove the exhaust to reach the starter is more than poor engineering by MB. I guess it's either the stealer or access to a lift.
You have to remove the exhaust to reach the starter is more than poor engineering by MB. I guess it's either the stealer or access to a lift.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: NW Chiburb
04 E500
I have to apologize, it's me who needs the head knocking. Obviously I have more to learn about reading Mercedes AR's.
I expected any cross-reference to another AR at the "lightly raise engine" instruction would be on the same line as the instruction. That's how the others are, and there was nothing on that line. Instead I now find that there is a reference to an AR on removing engine mounts, and in that AR it does indicate the front exhaust has to be removed. Unfortunately, it's two lines below the "lightly raise engine" instruction and I simply missed it. It's not the way I would have done it, but I can't use that as an excuse.
I guess the only good thing is I now know more about what I don't know so I can avoid making that mistake again. For now, though, all I can do is apologize - profusely.
Obviously I have more to learn about reading Mercedes AR's. I expected any cross-reference to another AR at the "lightly raise engine" instruction would be on the same line as the instruction. That's how the others are, and there was nothing on that line. Instead I now find that there is a reference to an AR on removing engine mounts, and in that AR it does indicate the front exhaust has to be removed. Unfortunately, it's two lines below the "lightly raise engine" instruction and I simply missed it. It's not the way I would have done it, but I can't use that as an excuse.
I guess the only good thing is I now know more about what I don't know so I can avoid making that mistake again. For now, though, all I can do is apologize - profusely.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
I have to apologize, it's me who needs the head knocking. Obviously I have more to learn about reading Mercedes AR's.
I expected any cross-reference to another AR at the "lightly raise engine" instruction would be on the same line as the instruction. That's how the others are, and there was nothing on that line. Instead I now find that there is a reference to an AR on removing engine mounts, and in that AR it does indicate the front exhaust has to be removed. Unfortunately, it's two lines below the "lightly raise engine" instruction and I simply missed it. It's not the way I would have done it, but I can't use that as an excuse.
I guess the only good thing is I now know more about what I don't know so I can avoid making that mistake again. For now, though, all I can do is apologize - profusely.
Obviously I have more to learn about reading Mercedes AR's. I expected any cross-reference to another AR at the "lightly raise engine" instruction would be on the same line as the instruction. That's how the others are, and there was nothing on that line. Instead I now find that there is a reference to an AR on removing engine mounts, and in that AR it does indicate the front exhaust has to be removed. Unfortunately, it's two lines below the "lightly raise engine" instruction and I simply missed it. It's not the way I would have done it, but I can't use that as an excuse.
I guess the only good thing is I now know more about what I don't know so I can avoid making that mistake again. For now, though, all I can do is apologize - profusely.
I know how to do it but without a lift I won't pull that stuff as I did 40 yrs ago on my 58 Ford.
Hopefully we all now know about this issue and someone will find an easier way to get it out. Being over 65 when I run into this either I will take it to shop or go car shopping. The MB is 120,000 and still going but I have no heartburn with a new car and warranty. It was a MB design issue.
