Fatjoe4

I have an 05 cdi that I just did an injector seal change on and now it is not starting.
I have checked that the plug is clipped tightly and the lines are tight.
I have also bled the fuel at the filter and the line at the injector.
I used the slide hammer removal tool to remove the injector initially due to carbon build up and had no problems. I also disassembled the top of the injector(aka the top nut and plug) to clean more closely to the threads and reassembled.
I have turned it over for several minutes and still no start. I seem to be getting fuel, but it might not be building up to the proper pressure.
Any ideas? The car ran fine before I took the injector out, besides the seal leak.

Plutoe

I know it sounds simple, however I hope you disconnected your battery before working on the injectors---that's the worst case a fried ECU.

The CDI start cycle is very simple, correct key, key on, selector lever in P or N--I guess those are correct---then the ECU looks at coolant temp,fuel temp fuel pressure(rail and pump), injector check,glow input---then actuates the starter relay incorporated into the drivers side SAM---all ok---car starts------yours does not---now without the proper diagnostic equipment you are left with loads of expensive guesses---where to start---well now you know the starting components---now you test or find someone with DAS Xentry to do the diagnostics quickly

Fatjoe4

Wow! Well I hope its not the "worst case"!
I did not disconnect the battery ��
Whould the starter still turn over then if it was the ECU?

Plutoe

At this point as long as you have gone back and traced all the wires you moved or disconnected and confirmed all is like before starting the job ever thing else is pure speculation--like a worst case situation

However I believe that as long as voltage is getting to the the front SAM the starter will function--now for all the other elements I haven't got the FFI--if you went over your work and see nothing out of the ordinary---then it's diagnostic time not BS time!!

Fatjoe4

I hear ya there!
Well I broke a T fighting on the return line when I was removing it.
So I'm going to pick up a new fuel return line and all 6 T today!
Unfortunately I do not think there any independent Mercedes Benz shops close to me that have the diagnostic equipment that would be needed.
So I'll put the return line on it and see how I come out.
Thanks so much I'll let you know what happens!

Fatjoe4

Still no start after putting on return line.
I plan on calling the dealer this morning.
I was also looking into getting a diagnostic reader I am starting to see I'm going to need one sooner or later if I plan on doing my own work on this car! What would you suggest?

Fatjoe4

Well just hear back today they told me the injector is bad. ��
Should I just buy a $600 from them!!?

konigstiger

$351.45 http://www.new-part.com/product/merc...-648-070-03-87

Fatjoe4

Thank you! I called them yesterday and they're out of stock.
The sales rep said there is another supplier he can get them from but it would cost around the $500 mark.

konigstiger

$381.42 + shipping http://huskerparts.com/partlocator/i...?siteid=215771
$408.75/free shipping http://www.oediscountparts.com/partl...?siteid=215242

Fatjoe4

Awesome thank you so much!

Also I remember reading somewhere that the slide hammer style removal tool that pulls by threading in to the top of the injector intead of the style that pulls from under it would ruin the injector. Why is that? Did I cause it to go bad by unscrewing the top nut that holds the electrical connector in place?

mersum1es

I believe it's said because very fine thread will not last high pulling forces? Some pullers have also optional thread connection which goes to inner thread of the injector (more parts needed to remove, included that tiny ball which someone has been able to loose).

I remember reading couple of cased where injector has damaged after slide hammer (no matter where puller has been attached) but overall it is a good tool.

I don't know what is preventing the start now, diagnose would tell if the fuel pressure rises high enough. You might try to measure continuity of the injector connector/wires, tough don't know where the other end is located.

Are the spring and washer under the solenoid in right order?
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...irroitettu.jpg

pstutcher

Sorry for the late response, hopefully you got it solved by now. I encountered this same issue recently.

I dismantled the injector head to pull it out and inadvertently lost the TINY ball bearing in there and didn't even know it. Ended up having to get a whole new injector from the dealer.

Anyhow, when I first got it reassembled (with what I thought was a working injector) it wouldn't start - at all - no fire, sputter, nothing. That was a key clue in figuring it out.

I got a $10 OBDII scanner from ebay (nice one, bluetooth wireless) and hooked it up. I saw exactly the error code I expected to see: Fuel rail pressure too low. I bungled putting the injector back together and without that ball bearing, the injector didn't seal up properly internally and it was dumping pressure back down the return lines. No build up in pressure on the rail, the sensor tells the car not to fire the injectors, no start.

I got the entire injector replaced and she started right up.

I hope this helps.

pete

JonP

Can someone point me to the tool that is needed to pull the injector. The one I have is slightly too small and I can't find the correct one.

mersum1es

Some have need do a bit grinding of those Chinese tools... My local indy said that there has been difference in official MB tools too, newer puller fork is little bit 'loose' in older engine injectors... I have not checked if MB part number of tool has been changed.