Switching oil viscosity on higher millage Benz?
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Monterey, CA
W211 E320
Switching oil viscosity on higher millage Benz?
Hello everyone I'm new on the forum hopefully this question hasent been asked before. I have a 2003 w211 E320 with 240,000 miles and I've been using Mobil 1 0w40 since I've bought the car (second owner, bought it used with 80,000) I'm wondering should I consider switching the oil to something like 5w40 or 10w40? The car seems runs great, no noises and it doesn't leak a single drop of oil. The only thing I've noticed is a little ticking sound at startup that goes away after a few seconds and it seems to use a some oil if I run it hard at about 4,000 miles. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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2000 S430L, BMW 530i
I think it's a never ending story. Different climates, different uses and different recommendations/personal preferences. Your budget might come into it too.
I have an S430 with 240,000 kms on it and I run mine on 5W40 Valvoline full synthetic. I use the same oil in my CLK55 so it works for me.
But, you can't go wrong sticking with the Mobil 1, although you could just as easily run 5W40. Be warned, it's easy to loose a few hours researching oils online!!
James
I have an S430 with 240,000 kms on it and I run mine on 5W40 Valvoline full synthetic. I use the same oil in my CLK55 so it works for me.
But, you can't go wrong sticking with the Mobil 1, although you could just as easily run 5W40. Be warned, it's easy to loose a few hours researching oils online!!
James
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2011 E63, 2011 Hyundai Genesis 4.6 v8, 2013 GMC Denali XL, 1965 Ford Mustang, 2005 Merc. E500
I use 5w30 Valvoline synpower in my E500 and have used it for years. I use 5w40 pennzoil platinum Euro in my E63. But if I lived in a colder climate 0-30 and 0-40 might be my choice.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Blackstone oil testing cost $20 about 3 years ago and even if they raise the prices, it is still cheap comparing to cost of oil change, not to mention cost of the engine.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The truth is that even advanced car owner has no way to tell one engine oil from other.
I record mpg at each fill up my whole life and when I switched old Volvo from dino to synthetic, thinner oils, I had noticeable mpg increase.
But switching from 0 to 5 oil weight will not make a change that anybody can notice.
That is why manufactures do have their approvals and oil labs stay in business.
With bad oil you will notice some sludge, but I just did breather cover at 160k miles and engine with good records does show some sludge inside.
So it is truly never-ending debate.
But switching from 0W-40 to 5w40 or 10w40 is not changing the oil viscosity at operating temperatures, while heavier cold oils will run starting engine with no lubrication longer than lower weight.
That definitely doesn't sound like good idea.
I record mpg at each fill up my whole life and when I switched old Volvo from dino to synthetic, thinner oils, I had noticeable mpg increase.
But switching from 0 to 5 oil weight will not make a change that anybody can notice.
That is why manufactures do have their approvals and oil labs stay in business.
With bad oil you will notice some sludge, but I just did breather cover at 160k miles and engine with good records does show some sludge inside.
So it is truly never-ending debate.
But switching from 0W-40 to 5w40 or 10w40 is not changing the oil viscosity at operating temperatures, while heavier cold oils will run starting engine with no lubrication longer than lower weight.
That definitely doesn't sound like good idea.
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I'm a tribologist with one of the largest global oilco's. At operating temperature an xW-40 is a 40 & only a 0W at Minus 16 Celsius. Stick to what you are using. 0W-40's are more expensive to formulate than 5W-40's or 10W-40's & generally use better base oils to meet HTHS (high temperature high shear) with those viscometrics. Some oil use is nothing to worry about & likely due to valve stem seals anyway. I'll bet you can still see honing marks in the bore at your mileage if properly maintained. Alusil bores are as tough as hell.
Only use approved MB products. There is a large choice.
Only use approved MB products. There is a large choice.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Monterey, CA
W211 E320
Thanks guys, yeah I'm gonna stick to the same Mobil 1 0w40 oil I've been using. The car runs and looks great despite its age and miles its never given me any problems. I stay on top of all the maintenance and at 240,000 miles it still runs like a champ. Just tough id throw this out there the only major things I've had to replace is the engine and transmission mounts and the Radiator since it had a tiny crack that leaked very slowly, I replaced it along with the hoses since it was fairly inexpensive. Also at 190,000 I took out the wheel bearings (they still looked new) repacked them with some fresh Mercedes grease and replaced the wheel hub seals.
Last edited by Tonye456; Feb 14, 2016 at 08:14 PM.
