Hey guys, I'm having some problems with my fuel pump on my 2009 E350, its the California edition emissions so it has the special fuel pump that they only made for a couple years so now that my fuel pump went bad slash or sending unit, i need to replace my WHOLE gas tank and replacing JUST the fuel pump and sending unit IS NOT an option, normally!!!!

So guys I'm trying to find out what else i can do because i DO NOT want to buy a whole new tank because its going to cost me $2,200 for the tank and pump since they say when the pump goes bad, the ONLY thing you can do with these CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS vehicles are to REPLACE the WHOLE tank WITH fuel pumps included, BUT as i said i DO NOT want to do this so i am TRYING to figure out a way to make this work or change out the pumps WITHOUT spending $2200 for a new tank!!!

Can someone PLEASE tell me what the fuel pressure should be for these cars? I'm asking because I'm going to try to figure out another way to fix it, WITHOUT changing the WHOLE entire tank, I'm going to figure something out on HOW to fix JUST the fuel pumps or modify them with parts from normal fuel pumps to make it work so i dont need to change the WHOLE tank..

GUYS THANKS IN ADVANCE ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

 

I was also thinking, hence why I'm asking if anyone knows what the correct fuel pressure for the pump should be, i can maybe instead of buying a new tank or messing with this one, i was thinking maybe i can buy a fuel pump and place it on the outside of the tank somewhere on the frame or somewhere hidden and figure out a way to put the hose in the tank to suck out the fuel into the pump thats going to be going through the one sitting outside of the tank and NOT touch the factory fuel pump thats IN the tank..? thats just an idea but i need to know the fuel pressure for the factory pump and then i can go from there, so if ANYONE AT ALL knows what the correct PSI that factory pump is sending out the fuel at, would be GREATLY GREATLY GREATLY appreciated and ALOT of help...!! THANKS AGAIN!!!

 

"California edition" and "replace whole fuel tank" lead me to believe this is a PZEV vehicle if so, you are entitled to no cost repair under emission warranty see attachment. Check your PM.

 

Only problem with the warranty is that i bought this car off a dealers crashed sight like copart, (not sure if it was exactly copart) but so since the car was totaled before, they voided the factory warranty or any warranty at all that this car had! i WISH i coulda done it thru this warranty!!! but I'm not lucky enough for things like that lol so due to the fact that i have no warranty on this car i can't get it thru that, i PMed you back as well...i have a high end body shop in the philadelphia and so when i bought this car back in 2010 i ONLY bought it to use as a shop car to get here an there back an fourth werever if someone needs to go somewhere, so this is why I bought a crashed one and fixed it myself, (first off because i only spent $5,500 TOTAL, brought from the auction and fixed including parts and labor which i obviously did myself and this again was back in '10 and it only had like 500 miles on it so it was a good deal, and so I'm using it as a shop car for ANYONE that needs to go ANYWHERE kind of thing) thats why i dont want to spend $2,200 for a new tank because this is kind of a community car for anyone that need to use it!

 

UUUPPDDAATTEEEE

THE CARS WARRANTY IS INFACT VOIDED DUE TO IT BEING TOTALED IN ITS LIFE SO WARRANTY ANY KIND OF WARRANTY IS OUT OF THE QUESTION GUYS...BUT THANKS FOR THAT....ANY OTHER IDEAS????

STILL TRYING TO FIND OUT FUEL PUMP PRESSURE IF ANYONE KNOWS IT AND CAN INFORM ME WOULD BE GREATLY GREATLY GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

 

Where was the car crushed?
I know MBUSA will jump on the opportunity to decline warranty cover, but the truth is that unless they prove the accident involved the part in question, they have no base for it.
I would call MB hotline and ask for good will before calling a lawyer.

 

TBH your 100% right, but it was smashed in the front, and in turn they can say that the CPS got crushed and that had something to do with something or you know how they are, you said it yourself, they'll try ANYTHING to void the warranty, but TBH the hit was in the front end, so in all technicality, if i had any good luck on my side, they would still help me out with the tank but i dont have ANY luck at all lol let alone good luck and they'll say that since it was hit in the front that it could have hit the ECU or could have hit the sensors or this or that, you know how they are, there retards in EVERY sense of the word...but i did just call the dealer, (i work with them a lot, spend ALOT of money at that dealer PER month i get ALOT of almost brand new Mercedes' at my shop) and thinking that maybe since i spend so much money with them theyll help me out, but actually there telling me that when warranty gets voided it gets voided, theres nothing i can say such as "well the hit was in the front and the gas tank has nothing to do with the front end" (which i just tried to say) but again they just told me when warranty is voided, the WHOLE warranty is voided, i can't get away with just saying what i said or what not....so teh dealer was a good try but it won't work, he even told me that usually it would say (on his computer) pvze extended warranty, but it actually doesn't say that at all and theres nothing there for that even tho it is a California emissions car.

I'm kind of screwed on the warranty and can't make anything happen with them, trust me if i could i would! and also I'm not trying to go to war with the dealer that I'm talking about because like i said i spend ALOT of money with them per month (easy over $100k PER MONTH) and i get about a 65% discount with them due to the fact that i spend so much money, so I'm not trying to screw anything up with them like that or have them hate me and drop my discount or something like that, you know what i mean? ive been dealing with the same dealer, same rep for years and years and years, and everything in my business is running so smoothly with the parts and there delivery to me 3 times a day (if need be) so there a lot of little things that they do for me since i spend so much money with them and they dont want to lose me, and we have a business relationship set up thats so prefect and works so beautiful that i dont want to risk going to war with them over something that I'm trying to fix on a shop car, but as for the warranty NOPE.....

AGAIN, I'm sorry to keep stabbing a dead horse with this but if ANYONE knows what pressure the fuel should be coming out of the pump at, i can just get another fuel pump and place it outside of the tank and have it work like that, drive the car for a bit and sell it or just sell it right away, it is getting old anyways and i did have it for a really LONG time already, even tho i dont drive it everyday, i still MIGHT need to drive it at any given moment when i fix this issue...with all your guys help of course!

 

I think working fuel pressure is 35 psi, but you might want to know that you are dealing with "saddle tank" who is having 2 separate chambers at lower point and is using returning fuel to run Venturi pump for fuel transfer from side to side.
So even your outside pump might work, you might run out of fuel having 6 gallons in the tank.
I know that messing up with MB designs opens whole can of worms and usually is not worth it.
Than you spoke to the dealers. I don't have good opinion about their education as I was teaching my local dealers about governors installed on the cars their sell.
Once again, call national line and talk to somebody who knows what he is doing.

 

why don't you just buy a pump gaskets lock rings ect and pay a indy to install???

you say replacing only the pump and pressure regulator aren't a option. Do they expect every consumer with a california car to purchase a 3k$ tank if pump fails? nah. Find out what part number is via epc.net, google search part and have indy install....

 

what is your vin

 

Yes, thats exactly the point, they want ppl to spend the $3k for a new tank if it fails, thats why its so expensive, because they know that the customer has NO other option BUT to spend the $3k at the dealer...its not the installing or parts thats the problem, trust me, if it was that simple, i would have been done it weeks ago and not have registered on this forum and NOT have posted up these questions, asking you guys for help, the problem is that its a sealed tank, so theres no way to get to that pump or sending unit, thats why i said replacing those isn't an option, 2 years they made these sealed tanks 08-09, i just got the unlucky pick of a california pvze emissions vehicle... thats the reason i was saying put a pump outside, so i dont have to cut a hole in my tank, they only made these for 2 years and there aren't many more out there...so like i said, if someone has this tank then yes in-fact they WANT you to pay the $3k at the dealer

 

My VIN is = WDBUF56X48B226879

 

You think its 35PSI? i think i seen a fuel pressure gauge on an E63 and seen it was jumping frantically between 55PSI-60PSI but idk if its different then an e350 cause the 63 is a bigger motor or what not, so if you say its 35PSI then it honestly might be, I'm not arguing I'm just wondering because I'm trying to figure out what to do to not spend the $2,200 so i really appreciate the info!! thank you so much! and its not about who i call, the car has no warranty, the tank will cost me $2,200 complete tank from the dealer sealed tank with 2 new fuel pumps inside already, but like i said i dont want to spend that $2,200 so calling the national line won't do me any good, but thanks for the heads up!

 

UPDATE

It is a SEALED METAL TANK, I CANNOT GET TO THE OTHER PUMP OR SENDING UNIT!!!

 

That is why they quote you for whole new tank.
I wonder if you can retrofit with standard tank. I am seeing occasionally W211 on junk yard s in my area and tanks sell for $35, although I think, here in CA they punch a hole in them for fuel drainage.

 

Here's datacard & part #s. Shop 2114703701 used, 2114708801 new/used.

 

Had a retard moment there fellas.

I'd say eff it and install a plastic one hahaha. a used plastic one with new pump and pressure regulator if in fact wiring and all that matches up.

 

Ya, Thanks for showing me that, i already know the exact part number that i would need for the exact part i would need, i have an estimating software as well thats linked to dealerships and aftermarket parts as well, and heres the exact part i need but look at that price over $900, and yes i get a pretty good discount, but instead of spending hundreds i want to spend double digit numbers not triple digit numbers all over a fuel pump problem!

 

This is an 09 W211 E350 people, not to be that guy or anything but were already in year 2016, about to be 2017, its a 6 year old car, the only reason i still have it, is because it only have about 30,000-35,000 miles on it and its a shop car, its a car to get from here to there, or from home to work in dirty work clothes or what not (even tho i keep it pristine and clean as FUDGE) so this is why i barely want to spend any money on fixing this problem is also because i think i might just fix the problem and sell it, get rid of it, i think I'm gonna go for either a '16 GL450 or might not get another shop car and might just get another car for my mother, but thats also a reason i dont want to spend the $900 just for the part is because I'm most likely going to sell the car anyways or maybe not idk we shall see, first i have to fix this problem and you guys are helping a lot some of you!! and i want to thank you very very VERY much guys!!!

 

BTW those aren't the right part numbers for my Mercedes, my system gives me a different part number, idk if it supersedes or the numbers you had are old but i tried putting in your part numbers you gave me in my system against my vin number and they dont match my vehicle :/

 

2114702402 is not PZEV see codes under description in MB EPC VIN specific attachment above, not that it matters anymore given "your" situation.

494 = USA
915 = larger capacity
917 = PZEV

 

You make it sound like "you" are doing the dealer a favor by giving them a lot to business lmao. Go back to the dealer and tell them to goodwill repair it or you'll consider your business relationship. It's not an unreasonable request seeing as previous damage has no impact on the fuel tank.

 

Than again, talking to dealer will not get you anything.
Good will will be decision by Regional Representative and you have to call hotline to get to the guy.
Doesn't sound like dealer want to help in this case.

 

Goodwill repairs are decided in house... Dealership foots the bill for it at the time then writes it off to mb corp.... so in theory to keep the customer happy they could eat the cost of the tank, repair it and get the customer on their way.... however not all dealerships have the capability to do such things. I would ask them to goodwill part and you pay labor....

 

That shows that practice can be different in different shops.
When I had fuel pump fire on 6 years old ML, it was regional representative who called me to pick up the check and it was regional representative who took the burned pump from me.
Dealers at the time washed their hands.