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I have a 2005 320 cdi. Sometimes there is a diesel smell inside the cabin. After doing my research on here I think I narrowed it down to a leaky injector. There is no evident black exhaust residue anywhere on or about the exhaust our manifold.
Attached is a picture of the front most injector. Is this leaking, or is this the foam insulation breakdown from the underside of the cover?. I think I know the answer but diesels are new to me.
Yeah the differently looks like a leaking injectors 1 and 2.
Part number 6110170060
Also that copper washer that is in front of injector 1 looks likes the injector seal.
You can get them from 30 cents to $1.50 USD each depending on what site you buy them from.
Also how many miles are on your CDI, I have the same year and model wondering when I should just do mine for maintenance?
Looks like black death to me.
To pinpoint the leak you can wash it well, wrap with paper towels and start running the engine gradually rechecking for wet spots.
Do you hear hissing when reeving the engine?
I will clean her up and check to see if I can determine the leak(s). I haven't heard anything out of the normal. but I have only owned the car for 3 months and 5k miles. She runs great, and averages 34-36 mpg. 162k on her and counting.
Once I determine the leak, replace copper seal and injector(s)? How tough of a job is it? I am very mechanically inclined. Any special tools needed?
Injectors do have special MB tool, what is about $100 chunk of steel.
Lucky members could pull the injector without much force.
Lot of threads on net.
I think you can spray lot of carb cleaner, wipe it nicely, loosen the holding bolt and see if the injector will turn without special tool.
Beware of very thin valve cover.
Almost positive that warranty does not apply to diesels. If it does then cool but I thought it said gas only.
Found the warranty letter. Letter Warranty Extension.pdf
Almost positive that warranty does not apply to diesels. If it does then cool but I thought it said gas only.
Found the warranty letter. Attachment 349856
Sure does say gasoline fueled only. Haven't peeped this bulletin in a long time. You may not be able to get a new tank but if those seals are leaking you could get those replaced. I would just double check to make sure they aren't seeping and go from there. Also, i think there is a bulletin about the high pressure pumps leaking also....
Originally Posted by kajtek1
Tiaaaa.
How guy who WORKED at 20 dealers could know such details.
and where do you or have you read that i worked at 20 dealerships????
My front injector started leaking worse, bubbling, and was smelly. At my last fill up, it used two more gallons than it should have by mileage and fuel consumption.
My '05 CDI has 180,000+ miles and the injector was bathed in black tar. I was lucky I think in that I was able to get the injector out with a pair of lady slippers (odd name for funky shaped little pry bars). Cleaning the tarry stuff out wasn't too bad but was tedious. The copper injector seals were so cheap at the dealer, I bought six even though I only replaced one.
I didn't replace the long hold down screw but think I should have. It torqued to 7 nm plus 90 degrees, plus another 90 degrees. I was worried that I might strip the aluminum in the head but it held. The MB manual said replace the long screw and the little oil feed clip retainers. It also mentioned lubricating the injector with "special grease". Since the dealer didn't give me any of the above, I did without.
No noises today, so fingers are crossed that it really is fixed. It did seem to drive better.
That injector clamp hold-down bolt is TTD (torque to demand) so one time use for that particular application then replace with new. It actually stretches in head once properly torqued (7nm, 90, 90). Those 2 90 degree rotations are where it becomes spring-like as it resists 350 to 1600 bar injector fuel pressure loads equivalent to what can be found at ocean bottom 2-3 miles down. Metal that is exposed to extreme temperature & pressure cycles eventually fail from fatigue so chance of leaks with repeated usage increases not to mention possibility of it shearing apart on removal. Be careful! Copper washer's mating surface in head should be prepped to insure uniformity across it's entirety as this is where gas temperature & pressure is highest so copper material actually ablates over time to create pathways for gases to escape detonation. (1600 grit sandpaper glued to end of a wooden dowel works well for this prep step or specialty tool specific to this repair is good option) Good luck! Use 150psi compressed air & brake cleaner to thoroughly clean out that hole where injector lives. Anti-seize is useful to keep it from bonding with head but not absolutely necessary if you've got enough weight behind a slide hammer tool for injector removal.
Last edited by PSDCampervan; 11-01-2017 at 05:11 AM.
So everything was running well but that reused stretch bolt kept bothering me. I got two bolts and the "special grease" from the dealer and this morning I replaced the hold down bolt. I also removed the injector, cleaned it, and rubbed it down with the special grease. I assume special has something to do with corrosion resistance in the hole.
Anyway, I replaced the $1.20 copper seal, and torqued the bolt to 7nm and then turned it another 90 degrees followed by a second 90 degree tightening.
Now it runs fine, doesn't smell bad AND I can sleep well at night.
Peter
02-26-2017, 03:08 PM
