E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Intake Flap Lever repair

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Old 03-15-2017, 06:43 PM
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2007 W211 E350 4Matic / 2008 X164 GL320 CDI
Intake Flap Lever repair

I know this has been discussed, but each thread seems to go in a different direction, and I have not found a clear answer yet.

1) Can you see or feel the flap lever to verify it is broken before pulling the intake manifold?

2) Has anyone actually heard of a catastrophic failure caused by just replacing the lever and not the whole manifold?

3) Does anyone recommend updating the lever to the aluminum part when installing a new manifold?

4) Has anyone used a remanufactured manifold?

Last edited by N_Jay; 03-15-2017 at 06:52 PM.
Old 03-27-2017, 01:41 PM
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1.) yes, i can see it visually from top of engine (need to remove the little engine cover (no need to remove airfilter), u need to know where to look (using flashlight).

2.) i replaced my lever only, bought the aluminum one , so far so good. symptom, loss of power at low rpm, car accelerate slowly at low rpm.

3.) installed aluminum part.. so far so good. it's been about 20k now. I replaced new manifold gasket when taking apart the manifold.

4.) if it's only the flap lever broken, no need to buy the whole unit.
Old 03-27-2017, 02:17 PM
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E
Originally Posted by e35008
1.) yes, i can see it visually from top of engine (need to remove the little engine cover (no need to remove airfilter), u need to know where to look (using flashlight).

2.) i replaced my lever only, bought the aluminum one , so far so good. symptom, loss of power at low rpm, car accelerate slowly at low rpm.

3.) installed aluminum part.. so far so good. it's been about 20k now. I replaced new manifold gasket when taking apart the manifold.

4.) if it's only the flap lever broken, no need to buy the whole unit.
not entirely true -- you need to inspect the internals and make sure the plastic rods are tight. They can break as well and you'll end up with plastic in combustion chamber.

you can verify arm broken by using a screwdriver and manually trying to move the rods attached to the vacuum pods

look it up on YouTube so you understand how it actuates then you can test it yourself
Old 03-27-2017, 02:29 PM
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yes, true, I inspected the internals plastic rods (when intake manifold was removed) and mine were fine.
Old 03-28-2017, 12:36 AM
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So it sounds like you either buy parts from somewhere that will take them back,
or,
pull the manifold and see if you need a new one or just the arm, then order parst (with car out of service a few extra days.

Any other suggestions? (Beside just buying and putting on a new manifold no matter what the problem actually is.)
Old 04-23-2017, 01:31 PM
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Bump:

Has anyone used the rebuilt manifold from RMT?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-E35...t/222162453471
Old 04-24-2017, 07:26 PM
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the rods in combustion chamber highly unlikely. What is likely though is the valves that those rods are connected to being damaged.... tisk tisk
Old 05-02-2017, 10:03 AM
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It was hard to get a good angle with the scope, but I am guessing that I am looking at the broken flapper lever.





Going to order the Reman one.
Old 05-03-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by N_Jay
It was hard to get a good angle with the scope, but I am guessing that I am looking at the broken flapper lever.





Going to order the Reman one.
yup thats it!
Old 05-03-2017, 08:30 PM
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Parts ordered.
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:37 PM
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Does anyone know the torque spec on the intake manifold bolts.

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