PLEASE HELP GUYS URGENT PROBLEM WITH AC !!!
#1
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PLEASE HELP GUYS URGENT PROBLEM WITH AC !!!
Hello guys ,
i have a W211 (E350) 2008 model and am facing a problem with my Air conditioning system , sometimes it blows very cold air like freezing ( i like it) and sometimes it gives hot air ( this is the big problem) , sometimes it gives cold air on the passenger side only and the driver side gives a normal air, i already changed the gas and oil in the workshop , checked the compressor pressure it gave 75 ( i think that it needs to be replaced ) i also checked it with the computer it gave me 3 sensor faults :
1- in car temperature sensor : N70b1 -99.0 C.
2-B10/4 -99.0 C .
3-B12/2 temperature valve -99 C.
Any one faced the same problem ? any one have a way to solve the issue ? what should i do first ? should i change the whole cooling system or what ? please help with this matter.
P.S i live in UAE ( Dubai and summer is already here !! and the temperature already hitting 43 C and above , so i really appreciate your fast response
i have a W211 (E350) 2008 model and am facing a problem with my Air conditioning system , sometimes it blows very cold air like freezing ( i like it) and sometimes it gives hot air ( this is the big problem) , sometimes it gives cold air on the passenger side only and the driver side gives a normal air, i already changed the gas and oil in the workshop , checked the compressor pressure it gave 75 ( i think that it needs to be replaced ) i also checked it with the computer it gave me 3 sensor faults :
1- in car temperature sensor : N70b1 -99.0 C.
2-B10/4 -99.0 C .
3-B12/2 temperature valve -99 C.
Any one faced the same problem ? any one have a way to solve the issue ? what should i do first ? should i change the whole cooling system or what ? please help with this matter.
P.S i live in UAE ( Dubai and summer is already here !! and the temperature already hitting 43 C and above , so i really appreciate your fast response
Last edited by sroujiboudy; 05-14-2018 at 10:38 AM.
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Seem all codes point to the sensor. I think the sensor is in overhead console, so check for loose wire, pull the plug, spray with electronic cleaner and reinsert.
What is the 75 pressure you've got?
What is the 75 pressure you've got?
#3
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this one it gave on the LO 75 ( was checked by the workshop they told me that it should be between 40 and 45 )
Last edited by sroujiboudy; 05-14-2018 at 10:43 AM.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
If you want precise advise, you need to give us precise data.
Just becouse you measure the pressure somewhere at some time during the cycle is not telling us anything.
Valid would be high pressure (what you can read on scanner) at max output.
Just becouse you measure the pressure somewhere at some time during the cycle is not telling us anything.
Valid would be high pressure (what you can read on scanner) at max output.
#6
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to be honest i didn't got ur point , the problem here that i don't have the tools at home and am trying to collect the data from the work shop, and they are not telling me the exact thing ( i know that am not giving exact data , but believe me if i can get them i will not hide any thing)
Ambient temperature 42.4C
B10/6 ( evaporator temperature ) 21.3C
B12/2 Refrigerant pressure 16 bar
Request to A9 ( refrigerant compressor) 70 %
Current consumption of A9 ( Refrigerant compressor 690 mA
Coolant temperature 91 C
This is all the information that i have.
Ambient temperature 42.4C
B10/6 ( evaporator temperature ) 21.3C
B12/2 Refrigerant pressure 16 bar
Request to A9 ( refrigerant compressor) 70 %
Current consumption of A9 ( Refrigerant compressor 690 mA
Coolant temperature 91 C
This is all the information that i have.
Last edited by sroujiboudy; 05-14-2018 at 11:19 AM.
#7
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
N70/b1 is located in the overhead control panel; it is an aspirated sensor.
B10/4 is located next to the ignition key slot; it is also an aspirated sensor.
B12/2 is a refrigerant pressure/temperature sensor; I believe it is located at the bottom of the condenser coil and communicates with the left front SAM.
N70/b1 and B10/4 connect directly to module N22, the Automatic Air Conditioning Control Module. N22 communicates via CANBUS to the front SAM which then connects to the AC compressor and to B12/2.
Lo-side pressure of 70 psi indicates the compressor swash plate is at minimum volume displacement. Once the variable-displacement compressor activates and goes to maximum volume displaced, then the pressure would drop down into the 40's. I would hypothesize that since the sensors are providing data that it is -99 degrees C, then N22 "sees" the cold temperature and takes the compressor swept-volume signal down to 2% (effectively not compressing at all).
Keep in mind if it is not the B12/2 sensor you have a possible bad front SAM. STAR diagnosis is the way to go here. If it is a bad front SAM, replace yours with the latest version; there are often multiple updates as design improvements make it to the assembly line.
B10/4 is located next to the ignition key slot; it is also an aspirated sensor.
B12/2 is a refrigerant pressure/temperature sensor; I believe it is located at the bottom of the condenser coil and communicates with the left front SAM.
N70/b1 and B10/4 connect directly to module N22, the Automatic Air Conditioning Control Module. N22 communicates via CANBUS to the front SAM which then connects to the AC compressor and to B12/2.
Lo-side pressure of 70 psi indicates the compressor swash plate is at minimum volume displacement. Once the variable-displacement compressor activates and goes to maximum volume displaced, then the pressure would drop down into the 40's. I would hypothesize that since the sensors are providing data that it is -99 degrees C, then N22 "sees" the cold temperature and takes the compressor swept-volume signal down to 2% (effectively not compressing at all).
Keep in mind if it is not the B12/2 sensor you have a possible bad front SAM. STAR diagnosis is the way to go here. If it is a bad front SAM, replace yours with the latest version; there are often multiple updates as design improvements make it to the assembly line.
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#8
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Well , I already checked it and everything was fine , and i already replaced the front SAM , so do you recommend to change the sensor first and check ? Since the SAM was replaced in October 2016 , to be honest am afraid to change the compressor and don’t get any results because it costs around 1500$ , ( original) am afraid to use denso compressor and face problem after a while ,
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
The shop will need to remove the refrigerant to replace the B12/2 sensor. Before replacing the compressor, first find a shop with an external compressor test tool (such as the Four Seasons 69636 which costs around $477 USD). If they can cycle the compressor swash plate from minimum to maximum to minimum, that will confirm the compressor. Once known good compressor, you're going to have to start digging and that includes using STAR to verify the front SAM again.
Try performing a search on terms such as "variable displacement compressor testing" or "variable displacement compressor diagnosis".
There's a good description at:
www.rbmpartsnews.com/Articles/variable-displacement-a-c-compressors
Please post your solution once you have it. Best to you.
Try performing a search on terms such as "variable displacement compressor testing" or "variable displacement compressor diagnosis".
There's a good description at:
www.rbmpartsnews.com/Articles/variable-displacement-a-c-compressors
Please post your solution once you have it. Best to you.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 05-14-2018 at 04:00 PM.
#10
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Well , that’s gonna be a long process , its not possible to replace the B12/2 sensor only !? Well sure am gonna post the solution once i find it , because it’s driving me crazy , it’s so moody , i feel that the car is possessed by the devil , because in the past 2 years a lot of problems happened and I started to hate it , man it’s costing me more than my wife ...
Last edited by sroujiboudy; 05-14-2018 at 04:05 PM.
#11
There's a good description at:
www.rbmpartsnews.com/Articles/variable-displacement-a-c-compressors
www.rbmpartsnews.com/Articles/variable-displacement-a-c-compressors
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Well , that’s gonna be a long process , its not possible to replace the B12/2 sensor only !? Well sure am gonna post the solution once i find it , because it’s driving me crazy , it’s so moody , i feel that the car is possessed by the devil , because in the past 2 years a lot of problems happened and I started to hate it , man it’s costing me more than my wife ...
My 2008 models no longer has refrigerant temp sensor, when it shows on yours.
#13
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Have you removed and cleaned the in car temp sensor properly? If so, why not just replace it if it's giving faulty readings.
#14
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Sorry for the late response guys , but finally solved the problem and i was out of reach couldn't post before , the problem was with the compressor itself and there was a sensor near the key needed to be replaced , and the problem was solved. thanks for every one who helped and advised