front axle boot kit installation
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2018
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2008 Mercedes E350 4 matic
front axle boot kit installation
Hi,
Is there a video or instructions for the installation of the outer front axle boot kit for a 2008 E350 Mercedes W211 4 matic (or similar). The part number of the kit is 220-330-01-85.
Thanks.
Is there a video or instructions for the installation of the outer front axle boot kit for a 2008 E350 Mercedes W211 4 matic (or similar). The part number of the kit is 220-330-01-85.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 95
Likes: 2
2008 Mercedes E350 4 matic
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
I don't want to remove the axle and don't want to touch the inner boot. Do you know, in the "4M outer boot.pdf", can I just slide the assembly 10/10a/10b out once I remove the clips 9a and 9b and slide the bellows away or is it going to be held by the retaining ring 7b? Will I need to do anything with the retaining ring 7b in order to slide the assembly 10 out from the front axle shaft 7? Would I need a special tool to remove the ring 7b, especially if it is inside assembly 10?
Thanks.
I don't want to remove the axle and don't want to touch the inner boot. Do you know, in the "4M outer boot.pdf", can I just slide the assembly 10/10a/10b out once I remove the clips 9a and 9b and slide the bellows away or is it going to be held by the retaining ring 7b? Will I need to do anything with the retaining ring 7b in order to slide the assembly 10 out from the front axle shaft 7? Would I need a special tool to remove the ring 7b, especially if it is inside assembly 10?
Thanks.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2007
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E
Good luck removing the outer joint assembly in-situ...it did require a good number of hits on my work bench to knock it out. Not sure if there’s a tool for removal with it still on the car. Some sort of puller.
with the strut out the way, removing the whole half shaft is no more work anyway. I’d just take it out completely and replace the inner boot as well since you’re 95% work done. I’ll try and post up when I get home my thread where I did both boots
with the strut out the way, removing the whole half shaft is no more work anyway. I’d just take it out completely and replace the inner boot as well since you’re 95% work done. I’ll try and post up when I get home my thread where I did both boots
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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2009 e350 Wagon W211
I just did a rebuild on my driver side. Its real easy to pull the inner boot off the inner housing if your working it around on car. Then its a pain to get the ring back on. +1 for ps2cho, pull the whole axle out and put it in a vice. Only a punch and some tough love with a hammer got the outer end off for me.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 401
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
2009 e550 4Matic
Ironically, my outer joint came apart when I was installing my new struts here this past week. Didnt even notice it until I got it all back together and glanced at the shaft. Had to yank it back apart, and reseat the outer onto the shaft. There is a circlip/expansion ring that is supposed to click it all together. Im assuming from me pulling down on it to remove the strut was enough to pop it apart.
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2008 Mercedes E350 4 matic
Is it possible to use a puller like this one https://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/.../2044_0_0?aqs= to remove the outer joint? Would love with a hammer be the only way?
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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2009 e350 Wagon W211
Is it possible to use a puller like this one https://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/.../2044_0_0?aqs= to remove the outer joint? Would love with a hammer be the only way?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2018
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2008 Mercedes E350 4 matic
Now I am in the process of replacing front right coil spring and CV joint boot. I removed large 27 mm hub bolt, disconnected lower control arm ball joint, disconnected the sway bar, removed 21 mm shock bolt, removed the top 3 smaller nuts holding the shock under the hood and removed the hub from the spindle. Now I see that I can't take the shock out without disconnecting upper ball joint and pushing the upper control arm upwards. The problem is that when I tried to disconnect upper ball joint it is VERY tight, way more than the lower ball joint. I tried it with the ball joint tool and a large wrench to tighten the tool. I am worried that I will break something, so I put the hub back onto the spindle and left it like that.
Is it safe to continue to push out the upper ball joint? I have some wooden block supports for the hub/rotor/caliper, but when the upper ball joint snaps out, this massive hub/rotor/caliper assembly will only be connected by the back tie rod (steering?), CV joint spindle, brake line and a couple of sensor lines. Is it safe for this assembly to hang like that? Is there a chance that the hub/rotor assembly will "fall out" from the axle, break or bend the tie rod or the spindle or tear the brake and sensor lines? What is a good way to support the hub/rotor assembly while I work on the shock and axle? Does the steering wheel position matter for the easier separation of the upper ball joint? Is there a way to remove the shock without disconnecting upper ball joint?
What is the right thing to do next?
Thanks.
Is it safe to continue to push out the upper ball joint? I have some wooden block supports for the hub/rotor/caliper, but when the upper ball joint snaps out, this massive hub/rotor/caliper assembly will only be connected by the back tie rod (steering?), CV joint spindle, brake line and a couple of sensor lines. Is it safe for this assembly to hang like that? Is there a chance that the hub/rotor assembly will "fall out" from the axle, break or bend the tie rod or the spindle or tear the brake and sensor lines? What is a good way to support the hub/rotor assembly while I work on the shock and axle? Does the steering wheel position matter for the easier separation of the upper ball joint? Is there a way to remove the shock without disconnecting upper ball joint?
What is the right thing to do next?
Thanks.
Last edited by ilya980; Jul 27, 2019 at 11:54 PM. Reason: clarity
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 401
Likes: 44
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
2009 e550 4Matic
no, place the jack under the lower control arm to support it... then pop the upper ball joint loose. you dont need the lower ball joint undone for any of this, unless you want to move the entire hub out of the way.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2018
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2008 Mercedes E350 4 matic
All instruction for CV axle replacement call for lower ball joint separation.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm Figure 4
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...pictorial.html Post #3
I don't think I am able to slide the hub from the axle spindle without disconnecting lower control arm. Anyways, I separated lower control arm at this point. The question is should I re-engage it back before separating upper ball joint? I am worried that if I don't properly support hub/rotor assembly pushing the upper ball joint creates excessive forces, because the hub assembly now hangs on it, so I could break something by pushing the upper ball joint too hard.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm Figure 4
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...pictorial.html Post #3
I don't think I am able to slide the hub from the axle spindle without disconnecting lower control arm. Anyways, I separated lower control arm at this point. The question is should I re-engage it back before separating upper ball joint? I am worried that if I don't properly support hub/rotor assembly pushing the upper ball joint creates excessive forces, because the hub assembly now hangs on it, so I could break something by pushing the upper ball joint too hard.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
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2009 e350 Wagon W211
Just from my experience you're more than likely to break your press or puller before you damage a ball joint. With that being said if the ball joint is seized on to the knuckle one option would be to use a pickle fork. But I have never reused a ball joint once I forked it off.
Also I would highly recommend removing the brake caliper, rotor, caliber support, sensors and get it all out of the way.
Also I would highly recommend removing the brake caliper, rotor, caliber support, sensors and get it all out of the way.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 95
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2008 Mercedes E350 4 matic
I got the upper ball joint separated and got the strut and spring out. The trick with the upper ball joint was to position the hub with wood blocks supporting exactly so that the upper ball joint bolt is perpendicular to the joint. Then all the force from the puller is applied towards separation rather than breaking the joint.
But now I am stuck again. I can't take the axle off. I can't separated the inner CV joint cup from the transmission. I clamped 3'' exhaust, like some people suggest, with nuts facing forward. Tightened it so it does not slide along the axle. Then tried to hammer it through the small bottom opening. I hit it pretty hard, but it does not move. I also can't really hit it along the axle, only at an angle. When I tried to pull the cup by hands there is some free play, not much, maybe 1 mm or so, but again I can't pull it out. What is the trick on removing the axle? Maybe there are some kind of strings I can wrap around the clamp and attach to a sliding hammer? Is there a good puller tool for this?
I saw that Mercedes uses a tool that looks like a bike chain with a bolt and a nut. It is expensive, and I don't understand how it would be better than the exhaust clamp. I would still have to hit it through this small hole at an angle. Maybe some kind of pry bar can be used to pry the inner joint cup out right where it enters the transmission? There seems to be a small gap between the cup and the transmission, but it is so tight I can't put anything in there.
Thanks.
But now I am stuck again. I can't take the axle off. I can't separated the inner CV joint cup from the transmission. I clamped 3'' exhaust, like some people suggest, with nuts facing forward. Tightened it so it does not slide along the axle. Then tried to hammer it through the small bottom opening. I hit it pretty hard, but it does not move. I also can't really hit it along the axle, only at an angle. When I tried to pull the cup by hands there is some free play, not much, maybe 1 mm or so, but again I can't pull it out. What is the trick on removing the axle? Maybe there are some kind of strings I can wrap around the clamp and attach to a sliding hammer? Is there a good puller tool for this?
I saw that Mercedes uses a tool that looks like a bike chain with a bolt and a nut. It is expensive, and I don't understand how it would be better than the exhaust clamp. I would still have to hit it through this small hole at an angle. Maybe some kind of pry bar can be used to pry the inner joint cup out right where it enters the transmission? There seems to be a small gap between the cup and the transmission, but it is so tight I can't put anything in there.
Thanks.
Last edited by ilya980; Jul 28, 2019 at 11:33 PM. Reason: clarity
